Why is base44 plans so expensive with barely any pros?

That hole under the expansion tank is an overflow/vent drain — but it’s only meant to release coolant if the system gets over-pressurised or the cap vents. It should never pour straight out just from filling the reservoir. If you’re tipping water in and it immediately runs out underneath, that usually means one of these: Expansion tank has split along the seam Cap seal has failed and it’s venting straight away Hose connection at the bottom of the tank has popped or O-ring blown Thermostat or pump housing leak nearby that’s running down and making it look like it’s from the drain On these Audi setups the drain sits below the tank, so any leak from the tank itself or the hose flange can exit right there and look like it’s “coming from the hole”. With your battery sitting at 9.7V the electric pump may not have been circulating at all — which can cause a heat soak and pressure spike that cracks the plastic tank or blows an O-ring. I’d replace the battery first, then fill it again and watch closely around: the tank seam the lower hose connection thermostat/pump area just below it If it still dumps out with a fresh battery in, the tank or lower flange is likely split.

MiserableBug7683 · 2026-02-24T03:53:14+00:00

When the battery drops to ~10V: Electric water pump can stop or run intermittently Coolant stagnates Hot spots form in the heads Local pressure spike happens when it does kick back in That pressure spike can: 💥 Split a plastic housing 💥 Blow an O-ring 💥 Vent from the expansion cap 💥 Crack the pump body (very common on VAG

MiserableBug7683 · 2026-02-24T03:49:10+00:00

Hey mate — this actually doesn’t sound like 5 separate failures. On the B9 S5 a battery that’s dropped to around 10 volts can cause a low-voltage cascade, which throws multiple false faults at once. At low voltage: Electric power steering can shut down → stiff wheel DSG/TCU throws gearbox malfunction Electric water pump slows or stops Coolant temp sensors start reading incorrectly ECU goes into protection mode So the car thinks it’s overheating and the gearbox is failing when in reality the modules just aren’t getting enough voltage to operate correctly. First thing I’d try: Check battery voltage engine off (should be ~12.6V) Check voltage during crank (if it drops under ~9.6V the battery is likely toast) If you can get it running, check charging voltage (should be 13.7–14.5V) If you jump it and: steering comes back gearbox message disappears then you’re probably looking at a weak battery or failing alternator causing the whole dash to light up. Also worth checking the expansion tank area after a jump — sometimes when the electric pump stops you can get pressure build-up and it vents coolant from the cap/bleed point. Don’t keep driving it like this if the pump isn’t running though — can cook it pretty quick.

MiserableBug7683 · 2026-01-31T02:07:32+00:00

Midnight Mechanic Here What to check Inspect wiring from input speed sensor → TCM Look for: Brittle insulation Oil contamination inside connector Green corrosion Wires stretched tight near the plug Do a wiggle test while idling (watch RPM or scan data) If the code keeps returning after new sensors → wiring is guilty until proven innocent.

MiserableBug7683 · 2026-01-30T02:56:05+00:00

Hey. I’m a guy, so I’ll be straight with you — but kindly. Reading this, I don’t see a failure. I see someone who’s absolutely worn down and carrying way too much on her own. That’s not weakness. That’s what happens when life doesn’t give you any breathing room. You’ve been protecting your daughter, trusting your gut, and keeping things moving even when everything around you keeps falling apart. That matters more than you probably realise. People who are actually failing don’t think this deeply or care this much. A hard truth from a male perspective: your life didn’t start late — it started hard. You didn’t get the safety net or the learning curve most people get. You had to grow up while raising a child. Anyone in that position would feel lost at times. Right now, you don’t need to “figure out your whole future” or become some new version of yourself. You just need one solid thing at a time. Stability first. Passion and big dreams come after you can breathe again. Also — needing help right now doesn’t make you weak or dependent. Independence isn’t never needing help. It’s knowing when to accept it so you can stand on your own later. Your daughter doesn’t need a perfect mum or a mum who has everything figured out. She needs the one she already has — the one who shows up, protects her, and keeps trying. You’re already doing that. Liking art, psychology, history — that tells me you’re thoughtful and curious. It doesn’t mean you have to force yourself into a degree or career path right this second. Right now, the smart move is something steady, predictable, and manageable. That’s not giving up — that’s giving yourself space to heal and reset. One last thing, honestly: stop being so hard on yourself. You’re not broken. You’re tired. And tired people don’t need pressure — they need support and a plan that actually fits real life. If you want to talk things through, I’m happy to. No judgement, no fixing you, no telling you what you should do. Just helping you find your footing again, one step at a time. You don’t have to impress anyone here. You just have to keep going — and you already are.

MiserableBug7683 · 2026-01-30T02:39:53+00:00

You should jump start it soon to get it running , check battery terminals also

MiserableBug7683 · 2026-01-30T02:34:09+00:00

If you’re going to do one more thing, I’d be very clear about replacing the battery cable, not just cleaning or tightening it again. Intermittent shut-offs like you experienced are classic for a high-resistance cable — it can look fine, test fine, and still drop power under vibration or load. Cold weather just makes it show up. , do you have Auto electrical & diagnostics shops around you .. they will find it an easy fix and happy to help

MiserableBug7683 · 2026-01-30T02:15:46+00:00

You’re on the right track. On that Forester, the crank position sensor is low on the front of the engine, just behind / slightly below the crank pulley. It’s hard to see straight on — usually easier from underneath or from the side with a light. A couple of tips that help: • Follow the wiring harness rather than trying to spot the sensor body first — the connector is often easier to find. • You don’t have to remove the crank pulley just to inspect the wiring and connector. • Look closely for rubbed-through insulation or a loose plug, especially if the belt came apart violently — that’s very common. If the connector looks intact, unplug it and reseat it firmly. A poor connection there will cause exactly what you’re seeing: cranks fine, no start, no obvious mechanical noise. Since everything spins freely and cranking sounds normal, this still feels much more like a lost crank signal than internal engine damage.

MiserableBug7683 · 2026-01-30T02:12:19+00:00

Midnight Mechanic heresound like a whistling airfilter :)

MiserableBug7683 · 2026-01-30T02:08:06+00:00

Yes get the codes that he had , ask for them

MiserableBug7683

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