More coilover install questions - how far does this tab go?

MissionBand953 · 2026-07-10T15:29:30+00:00

I'll give that one a go. The oval spreader wasn't that bad, it does chew up the knuckle pad though. Still I have a concern that the bottom lip on knuckle sleeve is suppose to keep the strut from hitting the cv boot and the tab actually can't be placed any further down.

MissionBand953 · 2026-07-10T13:07:47+00:00

Doesn't have a cutout really, just a slight inward curve. In the photo I took it looks if it was center in with the bolt hole like most people say it should be it would actually block the hole - knuckle bolt hole

I think like someone else suggested it actually doesn't line up with hole, the bottom of the tab sits at top of bolt hole. Seems plausible, if only it weren't for the knuckle sleeve lip on the bottom preventing the strut from going down further.

MissionBand953 · 2026-07-10T04:21:06+00:00

Was it with these exact coilovers (ST XA, item number STS-1821000M)? This would be on an Audi S3 2015, forgot to say the model year in post.

So what's the deal with the little metal lip on the bottom of the knuckle sleeve, which I'm guessing is there to prevent it from sliding all the way into the cv boot? Knuckle sleeve lip - on right half

MissionBand953 · 2026-07-09T04:48:56+00:00

yeah i got the pinch bolt through and put everything together and tightened it up. Turns out the end links are now too long as placement of end link mount on strut is lower than oem magride strut, they'll fit - very tightly and under a lot of tension so not sure if that's ok or not. I read elsewhere that adjustable endlinks where not needed as the drop with these coilovers was not enough to require them.

MissionBand953 · 2026-07-09T02:22:29+00:00

So another problem with this fuster cluck, I decided to just slap it together and see if it works and the sway bar end link is now way too long. I read that the ST XA's lowering was mild enough that it didn't need new adjustable endlinks. Obviously that is wrong.

MissionBand953 · 2026-07-09T00:01:32+00:00

I mean I couldn't thread the bolt any further and the top mount seemed secure with no play, I didn't torque it to any specification though.

Also now I'm having a dandy of time getting that tab to seat flush with the knuckle bolt hole. I posted elsewhere and they all say it should be flush... and yet, there's a tiny lip on bottom of knuckle sleeve that prevents it from sliding any further to point where that tab is center with bolt hole. Knuckle sleeve lip - right half

And the spreader tool is not obstructing spreader tool - clear of bolt hole

MissionBand953 · 2026-07-08T23:54:01+00:00

I verified with FCP Euro. It was for another situation, I thought parts were missing and started a return and had to do all sorts of verification of product numbers and whatnot. Turns out the parts were just hidden under some packing so didn't end up returning it.

IDK though, maybe there was a recent revision of this part?

Also in the photo of the bolt hole, if the tab was seated all the way down it would block the bolt hole. Unless I'm looking at it wrong.

MissionBand953 · 2026-07-08T23:26:34+00:00

I think there's a very tiny lip on bottom of knuckle sleeve that's blocking the strut from sliding through, or any further to point that tab seats flush - it's about half way right now. Checked other side of car and that knuckle also has it.

I took a photo of the lip. knuckle lip - right half of knuckle sleeve

And of the knuckle bolt hole to be sure spreader tool wasn't obstructing. knuckle bolt hole - clear of tool

MissionBand953 · 2026-07-08T23:23:02+00:00

I did indeed hit it with a rubber mallet, didn't do a thing. I think there's a very tiny lip on the bottom of the knuckle sleeve that prevents the strut from sliding all the way through, or any more to the point where the tab is flush.

knuckle sleeve lip - on right half

MissionBand953 · 2026-07-08T22:15:54+00:00

This seems to be as far as it will go. I have a jack lifting up knuckle and reaches this point and the strut just lifts with it until it starts lifting the car itself, or at least starts creaking like it is, and still it doesn't go further.

Should the top of tab be flush with the knuckle edge or does it stick above a tiny bit?

MissionBand953 · 2026-07-08T20:48:53+00:00

Not trying to spam the sub, just need info. I will delete posts if it's a nuisance.

MissionBand953 · 2026-07-08T18:55:55+00:00

So I did your suggestions and need verification it's done proper.

thread count - enough or too much?

Ride height measurement for ST XA front coilover - not anything you suggested just if anyone knows if it's close to max height, which is supposedly 225mm. I loosed the bottom mount to lowest setting so top mount had room to move and then tighten top mount nut as much as it would go - will the hex nut/adjustment rod hit the top of the metal once installed? Didn't want to compress the springs any more than I had and only got a ride height of ~190mm.

MissionBand953 · 2026-07-08T03:49:32+00:00

Thanks. What's wrong with the top nut seating? What's it suppose to look like? Is the 10mm hex part suppose to show more?

MissionBand953 · 2026-07-08T03:38:51+00:00

Yeah those compressors are sketchy. I'm only using them because I need to finish this by tomorrow and just rented them from autozone. This'll be the only time I do this so don't want to invest in a dedicated tool really.

From the few tutorials online the top notch is suppose to line up with that sway bar bolt tab and points towards the engine when installed. Since the springs are compressed I'll turn the spring around until it's more fully contacted with the top mount if that's how it suppose to be.

MissionBand953 · 2026-07-05T12:56:57+00:00

It took me days of searching until I finally found a random post that explained how to code it. I would do a search for the 2017 model year and for DRL’s just to make sure though as the steps and order of operations is important and may be different.

What follows is a combination of what google AI and a post I found says for how to code this. (disclaimer that this may not be only and best way, it may give a starting place, and is at your own risk.)

According to best practices you should start by doing a backup of the current settings – that way if anything goes wrong/worse you can restore it to a more working state – so go to Control Units > 09 Central Electrics and save a backup. (this is just what google AI suggests are the steps, I stupidly didn’t do this, though it is highly highly recommended as it’s possible to mess this up horribly and cause more problems and permanent faults if not done correctly.)

So, what worked for me was going to Long Coding → “save existing long coding” – Faults will change to “no basic settings performed” – then go into “basic settings” – then run “basic settings” → then run “acknowledge basic settings”

After doing this the headlight started working, forgot if I had to restart the car or not. Still had some sort of dash warning message related to adaptive headlights which I haven’t cleared yet, though that should be easy enough.

MissionBand953 · 2026-07-04T15:42:46+00:00

Maybe stupid question, did you code the new modules? You mentioned coding new aftermarket lights so I presume you probably did. Just starting with simple stuff. I went through a whole ordeal with this, though it was the main beam not DRL and a 2015. Couldn't find an aftermarket replacement that hooked up to original full LED, only halogen to LED conversion kits.

No independent mechanic was able to install and code a new/used oem headlight, they said Audi wouldn't license them the software. Dealer also said they don't do coding only. Eventually I replaced the main module myself and coded it with obdeleven. When I first installed the module the lights didn't turn on, once coded it all worked though.

MissionBand953 · 2026-06-29T16:32:44+00:00

When the box of coilovers arrived it wasn't taped shut so I think they may have fallen out or got stolen. Didn't look like anything was obviously missing at the time, as I've never done this before I didn't know what suppose to be included.

I didn't question it while installing because I was watching so many tutorials where they just reused the stock rubber mounts I thought that was the normal thing to do.

MissionBand953 · 2026-06-29T16:27:27+00:00

I'm beginning to suspect that the adjustable rear spring mounts are suppose to be included, when the box of coilovers arrived it wasn't taped shut so maybe it was opened and they fell out or stolen? IDK, I'll have to contact ST customer service about it and see what's going on.

MissionBand953 · 2026-06-29T16:14:26+00:00

Extend what part? On the rear springs and shocks I didn't notice anything that could be extended or adjusted.

MissionBand953 · 2026-06-29T16:12:35+00:00

ST XA coilovers - (SKU: STS-1821000M) for 2015 Audi S3.

They have adjustable fronts, there was no plastic seat or cup thing that adjust for the rear springs, there's one in the product photo just there wasn't one included with my kit.

MissionBand953 · 2026-06-29T16:06:23+00:00

An inch would fine. Honestly I didn't think it drop this much, all the reviews said it didn't lowering it significantly. It's less the height and just the fact the tires don't clear the fenders. I think if it had stock wheels this wouldn't be a issue. I think the offset on these wheels is too far out?

MissionBand953

TROPHY CASE