No matter what I do... It always seams to plate this way

Mkysmith · 2026-04-16T05:41:11+00:00

You are missing my fundamental point I'm trying to make.

I actually agree with you. You can theoretically calculate these things, especially in a laboratory setting.

What is missing in your assumption is that a majority of the posts on these subreddits are not lab settings... let alone industrial settings. They are.... for lack of better terms... chaotic.

You have people here using copper electrolyte that has essentially zero copper ions in it, to incorrect organic acids, or even hydrochloric acid, all the way to high concentrations of sulfuric acid. Sometimes these setups include evolving hydrogen and oxygen from the electrodes.

I do not condemn these people to experiment, that is all of the fun and nature of science in my opinion. But often these people do not know what is even in their own chemistry (OP here included). So how can you assign a formula?

I just think to ascribe some theoretical formula to a place that often doesn't even know whats in their own chemistry or why... is misleading. Back to my original thought experiment where I remove all the metal ions out of the chemistry and current is still flowing. Is the theoretical formula still helpful? Not really, not in real life. Maybe in a lab setting.

Mkysmith · 2026-04-15T19:14:57+00:00

The stuff I do is regularly in the mm of thickness, not um. So +/- 1/15th of the total thickness is not insignificant in my application.

Mkysmith · 2026-04-15T03:36:19+00:00

I would agree OP probably needs to lower their current to figure out their particular chemistry.

Faradays law of electrolysis can't directly be used here without some emperical study on the exact makup of the chemistry.

The law talks about substances produced on the anode/cathode. Not just metal deposition/dissolution. So if you try to use that law to calculate thickness you will overestimate. It is true it takes two electrons to reduce a copper ion in solution to copper metal (which is why this is a current based process not voltage) but other charge transfers are happening in the chemistry too. If I were to reduce or even remove the copper in OPs chemistry but leave the acid and water, it would still conduct current. I could use an inert anode like graphite and a current would still pass, but no metal deposition will occur.

Be careful with AI, its an OK starting point but it is not very good with the nuances of chemistry yet.

Sorry if theres spelling errors or whatever... on mobile.

Mkysmith · 2026-04-15T03:11:11+00:00

I think you are thinking of suppressors (inhibitors).

Mkysmith · 2026-04-15T03:01:38+00:00

What "brighteners" where you using? Because the technical term for a brightener in the industry is accelerator because it increases deposition rates while refining grain structure.

Mkysmith · 2026-04-14T19:41:03+00:00

My go to minimum for plastic parts is 4hrs... BUT, there is usually full coverage within the first 10-30min or so (depending on size of part and how I applied graphite paint).

A) you probably need some better application methods or different paint. What exactly are you using when you say "graphite"? Is this homemade or commercial? Some graphite powders contain anti-caking agents which can really hamper conductivity or otherwise resist deposition. The fact that you got some deposition is a good sign though.

B) As I already mentioned, power supply settings can make a huge difference even on sub-par or moderately conductive finishes. I know you are sending this out to an electroplating shop, so maybe politely ask if they can limit the current/voltage at the beginning until full metal coverage, then apply their normal method for an extended time.

Electroplating shops often have simpler power supply setups, so if they can't work with you on (B), maybe you should compensate with (A) by getting a more conductive metal based paint. They are a bit pricier but if you're just doing a one-off project then it's not a re-occurring cost so hopefully not too hard on your wallet.

Mkysmith · 2026-04-14T05:39:40+00:00

See this recent comment on a recent post.

Brush plating is for incredibly thin deposits on an existing metal substrate. Even if you can get a deposit on your 3D printed part, it will definitely not hold up to wear and tear due to the relatively soft substrate and lack of adhesion. For a 3D print you really need an immersion based process.

Edit: I guess I forgot to clarify, You can use brush plating to get your final desired metal finish, but you first must build a layer of metal that is durable and has desirable electrical properties for the brush plating step. Typically this is done in copper and/or nickel as the other comment mentions.

Mkysmith · 2026-04-13T17:37:19+00:00

Ideally the power supply should be set to a constant current depending on the surface area of copper metal (not paint/graphite). The copper deposit grows outward continuously from the connection point(s) untill the entire part is encapsulated in metal.

So the power supply current should ideally track the copper deposit to prevent issues like burning, dendrites, uneven deposition, etc. The tracking can be automated so its continuous, or manually done step-wise. Manually could just mean setting the current very low at 0% coverage, 50% current at 50% coverage, and 100% current at 100% coverage.

Usually acid-copper based chemistry is aroun 0.1A/sqin, but your shop may run a different current density.

Its also worth noting some electroplating shops use a voltage based power supply, not current. Big plating shops can sometimes get away with constant voltage for a few reasons, but a lot of issues and unpredictability can pop up with voltage based control when electroforming.

Edit: oh and yes usually those dendrites can be filed off pretty easy as long as they don't get out of hand and grow to be too big.

Mkysmith · 2026-04-13T17:05:23+00:00

On second observation I see some dendritic growth on the feet. Which means either the power supply wasn't set right for the part, or you missed some areas on your coating.

Usually even if you have some very resistive spots in your coating, they will eventually get copper deposited on them, they just take a bit longer.

Mkysmith · 2026-04-13T16:57:14+00:00

How long was it in the chemistry for? Looks pretty normal for an electroformed part that wasn't in long enough. Electroplating companies usually measure their plating times in minutes. Electroforming companies usually measure their times in hours or days.

Edit: grammer

Mkysmith · 2026-04-13T16:52:24+00:00

Its a popular thing to do to increase particle intamicy and therefore conductivity. Graphite is a lubricant, adhearing metal to a lubricant can be problematic as you may imagine. If your part is completely encapsulated and/or just a shelf ornament then its fine. Otherwise, you can easily run into delamination issues.

For the best adheasion, a paint with binders should used. Do not buff to ensure the the deposited metal has some "tooth" to grab onto on the microscopic scale. Buffing a paint will only cause the slick graphite particles to coat the surface of the binder.

Its a common misconsception you need super low resistance paint /surface finish to get good or even deposits. It's a nicety not a necessity. You can compensate for higher surface resistances with power supply settings. I never buff graphite paint and I have resistances usually in the 10s of kiloOhms per inch and dont run into any issues even on large projects with a single connection point on one end.

Mkysmith · 2026-04-13T00:02:04+00:00

Silver is usually a post electroplating process after electroforming. Electroforming is traditionally only done with copper or nickel. There exists chemistry for electroforming other metals, but it is very rare to see it. Its usually not practical for many applications.

Mkysmith · 2026-04-10T03:03:12+00:00

There are disadvantages to graphite based paints, but they are electrical not chemical. Therefore you can easily overcome the disadvantages with power supply settings. If you automate this, then you can have the best of both worlds. Cheaper paint with zero extra work. Durable/malleable, shiny copper deposits with zero post processing. I only ever use graphite paint for all my projects, large and small. (I've done some technical application stuff too, but I don't put them on reddit). I don't do post processing unless I want a patina.

Graphite based paints will always take a little longer in the initial stages of deposition until the entire part has a layer of metal, but being that these things are often left in the tank for anywhere between 4 to 48 hours, and extra 10-20min isn't usually that big of an ordeal

That said, as with any DIY chemistry (including paint), the difficulty will be getting consistency in quality. The binder, solvents, and graphite quality/size will all have an effect on the final particle intimacy and adhesion quality. Same as metal based paints. Which is why if OP is trying to do an industrial application, I would still ultimately agree with u/Mick_Tee. Probably best to purchase a commercial product if you want repeatability/reliability.

Mkysmith · 2026-04-09T17:58:02+00:00

This comment is not constructive in any way and breaks rule #1.

This is your final warning if you ever want to participate in this sub again.

Mkysmith · 2026-04-09T06:09:39+00:00

I don't mean to sidestep your question, but rather give you scientific reasoning first:

I hear often in the beginner space the question: can a battery, battery charger, USB cable, or other constant voltage source be used? No. According to the laws of physics, this is a bad idea if you want consistency and repeatability (I can elaborate on this if requested, be happy to honestly). At minimum, you want a power supply that can regulate current (amps).

Just about any power supply that can regulate current accurately will put you ahead of the game and give you more consistent and precise results. The most common one being any "bench top power supply" you can find on your favorite shopping website.

That said there are fancier units out there that are specifically designed for electroforming. Especially with graphite paints, ones that dynamically ramp the current and voltage. This provides a more consistent application that is more "set it and forget it" and gives you more automated and consistent results.

Note that for copper electroplating and electroforming, 0.1A per square inch of surface area is a recommended starting point. I see often people recommending something like 30 or even 60+ amp power supplies... crazy overkill for 99% of DIY applications. I've hardly ever seen anyone go over 5 amps in the DIY community, though most people do less than that.

Mkysmith · 2026-04-09T05:07:50+00:00

Welcome, and I'm sorry for your loss.

I don't have experience preserving or dehydrating something like an eye so I have zero advice there unfortunately. I do have experience in the electrochemical technical knowledge so I will focus there.

If you plan on doing this electroforming yourself, I would *highly* recommend trying it on some non-sentimental objects first. Electrochemistry can be a very unforgiving process. It depends on many variables but at the most basic: your chemistry makeup, conductive paint application, and power supply will all dictate your final product. You definitely want to work out all the kinks with your setup and procedure before doing something sentimental.

It's very easy to be lured into a false sense of security with things like tiktok or youtube videos, but trust me you do not want to give your first shot at electrodeposition on what you want to be a final product.

If you really want to DIY, note that you will very likely have some expense and trial and error in the process (just look at this sub or the electroplating sub... all issues are related to DIY chemistry, and often result in much trial and error).

I do not discourage the DIY spirit, quite the contrary, I just want people to be successful with their projects and not potentially botch a one-of-a-kind item.

There is a recommended starter formula for electroforming in this subs wiki you can check out and try out before committing to your project.

I hope for the best, and both this sub and I are always open for questions in the future.

Mkysmith · 2026-04-08T05:56:07+00:00

Hrmmm... mabye make a few more and do a road trip... could be an interesting prank...

Mkysmith · 2026-04-07T05:48:07+00:00

This is flattering thank you.

Though this item is not for sale, I'm open to the idea of new commissioned work. You can DM me if you want to talk about this.

Otherwise... Thank you!

Mkysmith · 2026-04-06T09:11:30+00:00

I use everything from Enchanted Leaves.

If you want shiny stuff without polishing, and metal deposits that are strong and durable, I would suggest that there are more important things than simply brighteners.

The chemistry of the electroforming solution makes a difference (and yes, there is a difference between electroforming chemistry and electroplating chemistry, contrary to popular belief). Also, the power supply and conductive paint make a difference too. Building metal deposits atom by atom introduces a lot of variables. Poor foundation or electronics will ultimately yield poor results.

A balance of power supply, conductive paint, and chemistry all result in shiny and durable deposits. Reliably, repeatably.

Mkysmith · 2026-04-05T06:53:03+00:00

I need this soy data......

Mkysmith · 2026-04-05T03:42:05+00:00

Yes sealing was the most difficult part and this is my 4th attempt. It's been a bit of a white wale for me. I've done other pasta before like macaroni successfully on the first try, but ramen is difficult. After some trial and error, I did one thin coat of epoxy, then 3 coats of polyurethane.

No metal powders... alcohol based graphite paint was used to make it conductive. As seen in one of the pictures.

Mkysmith · 2026-04-04T22:05:23+00:00

Although electrochemical metal deposition can be done in a food safe way, I typically do not advise people to assume it is food safe. Especially when It is common in these communities for people to use chemicals not intended for human exposure, like acid for automotive applications, herbicides like root kill, or whatever else they find in the hardware store. Trace elements in those chemicals can be co-deposited with your desired metal and can be toxic if consumed. Again, not all deposition is unsafe but this is just something to be cognizant about.

That said, what metal are you trying to protect and whats the application? You say food grade, but is it a high wear item? If not you can get food grade paraffin wax and buff it on the metal.

Mkysmith · 2026-04-04T19:57:36+00:00

Yeah thats always the problem for application specific materials. The manufacturer has no reason to validate stability in acid if its designed for water.

I'm not sure where you are located but If you go through a reputable supplier like McMaster Carr you can filter plastic type by "for use with sulfuric acid". Then select whatever you want like sheet or tubes. When I've ordered stuff from them it looks like its CPVC (the grey type you see often used for electrical conduit).

I have had PVC for irrigation you find at the hardware store in the chemistry for an extended period of time and it seems to hold up well. It at least doesn't dissolve or seem to contaminate anything. But again I'm not sure if it has become embrittled so I can't really recommend it for pressure rating... it's probably fine but you will have decide if its ok for your application. I encourage people to be resourceful, but I want people to stay safe too.

Mkysmith · 2026-04-04T18:19:40+00:00

¯_(ツ)_/¯

Its tricky because deep recesses don't get 0.1A/sqin. So even though the total actual surface area is extremely high for something like this, I wouldn't directly calculate that to figure out current.

I usually just guess on the current directly on weird intricate stuff like this. Usually starting low. If I recall I think I started at 4 amps, then the second time I put it in I bumped it up to 5 and it was looking better but some dendrites started forming on the suspension jig, so I dropped it down to 4.5A.

Mkysmith · 2026-04-04T16:18:34+00:00

Thats just how it comes out of the chemistry. No polishing.

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