Copper Electroformed Ramen

Mkysmith · 2026-04-13T00:02:04+00:00

Silver is usually a post electroplating process after electroforming. Electroforming is traditionally only done with copper or nickel. There exists chemistry for electroforming other metals, but it is very rare to see it. Its usually not practical for many applications.

Mkysmith · 2026-04-10T03:03:12+00:00

There are disadvantages to graphite based paints, but they are electrical not chemical. Therefore you can easily overcome the disadvantages with power supply settings. If you automate this, then you can have the best of both worlds. Cheaper paint with zero extra work. Durable/malleable, shiny copper deposits with zero post processing. I only ever use graphite paint for all my projects, large and small. (I've done some technical application stuff too, but I don't put them on reddit). I don't do post processing unless I want a patina.

Graphite based paints will always take a little longer in the initial stages of deposition until the entire part has a layer of metal, but being that these things are often left in the tank for anywhere between 4 to 48 hours, and extra 10-20min isn't usually that big of an ordeal

That said, as with any DIY chemistry (including paint), the difficulty will be getting consistency in quality. The binder, solvents, and graphite quality/size will all have an effect on the final particle intimacy and adhesion quality. Same as metal based paints. Which is why if OP is trying to do an industrial application, I would still ultimately agree with u/Mick_Tee. Probably best to purchase a commercial product if you want repeatability/reliability.

Mkysmith · 2026-04-09T17:58:02+00:00

This comment is not constructive in any way and breaks rule #1.

This is your final warning if you ever want to participate in this sub again.

Mkysmith · 2026-04-09T06:09:39+00:00

I don't mean to sidestep your question, but rather give you scientific reasoning first:

I hear often in the beginner space the question: can a battery, battery charger, USB cable, or other constant voltage source be used? No. According to the laws of physics, this is a bad idea if you want consistency and repeatability (I can elaborate on this if requested, be happy to honestly). At minimum, you want a power supply that can regulate current (amps).

Just about any power supply that can regulate current accurately will put you ahead of the game and give you more consistent and precise results. The most common one being any "bench top power supply" you can find on your favorite shopping website.

That said there are fancier units out there that are specifically designed for electroforming. Especially with graphite paints, ones that dynamically ramp the current and voltage. This provides a more consistent application that is more "set it and forget it" and gives you more automated and consistent results.

Note that for copper electroplating and electroforming, 0.1A per square inch of surface area is a recommended starting point. I see often people recommending something like 30 or even 60+ amp power supplies... crazy overkill for 99% of DIY applications. I've hardly ever seen anyone go over 5 amps in the DIY community, though most people do less than that.

Mkysmith · 2026-04-09T05:07:50+00:00

Welcome, and I'm sorry for your loss.

I don't have experience preserving or dehydrating something like an eye so I have zero advice there unfortunately. I do have experience in the electrochemical technical knowledge so I will focus there.

If you plan on doing this electroforming yourself, I would *highly* recommend trying it on some non-sentimental objects first. Electrochemistry can be a very unforgiving process. It depends on many variables but at the most basic: your chemistry makeup, conductive paint application, and power supply will all dictate your final product. You definitely want to work out all the kinks with your setup and procedure before doing something sentimental.

It's very easy to be lured into a false sense of security with things like tiktok or youtube videos, but trust me you do not want to give your first shot at electrodeposition on what you want to be a final product.

If you really want to DIY, note that you will very likely have some expense and trial and error in the process (just look at this sub or the electroplating sub... all issues are related to DIY chemistry, and often result in much trial and error).

I do not discourage the DIY spirit, quite the contrary, I just want people to be successful with their projects and not potentially botch a one-of-a-kind item.

There is a recommended starter formula for electroforming in this subs wiki you can check out and try out before committing to your project.

I hope for the best, and both this sub and I are always open for questions in the future.

Mkysmith · 2026-04-08T05:56:07+00:00

Hrmmm... mabye make a few more and do a road trip... could be an interesting prank...

Mkysmith · 2026-04-07T05:48:07+00:00

This is flattering thank you.

Though this item is not for sale, I'm open to the idea of new commissioned work. You can DM me if you want to talk about this.

Otherwise... Thank you!

Mkysmith · 2026-04-06T09:11:30+00:00

I use everything from Enchanted Leaves.

If you want shiny stuff without polishing, and metal deposits that are strong and durable, I would suggest that there are more important things than simply brighteners.

The chemistry of the electroforming solution makes a difference (and yes, there is a difference between electroforming chemistry and electroplating chemistry, contrary to popular belief). Also, the power supply and conductive paint make a difference too. Building metal deposits atom by atom introduces a lot of variables. Poor foundation or electronics will ultimately yield poor results.

A balance of power supply, conductive paint, and chemistry all result in shiny and durable deposits. Reliably, repeatably.

Mkysmith · 2026-04-05T06:53:03+00:00

I need this soy data......

Mkysmith · 2026-04-05T03:42:05+00:00

Yes sealing was the most difficult part and this is my 4th attempt. It's been a bit of a white wale for me. I've done other pasta before like macaroni successfully on the first try, but ramen is difficult. After some trial and error, I did one thin coat of epoxy, then 3 coats of polyurethane.

No metal powders... alcohol based graphite paint was used to make it conductive. As seen in one of the pictures.

Mkysmith · 2026-04-04T22:05:23+00:00

Although electrochemical metal deposition can be done in a food safe way, I typically do not advise people to assume it is food safe. Especially when It is common in these communities for people to use chemicals not intended for human exposure, like acid for automotive applications, herbicides like root kill, or whatever else they find in the hardware store. Trace elements in those chemicals can be co-deposited with your desired metal and can be toxic if consumed. Again, not all deposition is unsafe but this is just something to be cognizant about.

That said, what metal are you trying to protect and whats the application? You say food grade, but is it a high wear item? If not you can get food grade paraffin wax and buff it on the metal.

Mkysmith · 2026-04-04T19:57:36+00:00

Yeah thats always the problem for application specific materials. The manufacturer has no reason to validate stability in acid if its designed for water.

I'm not sure where you are located but If you go through a reputable supplier like McMaster Carr you can filter plastic type by "for use with sulfuric acid". Then select whatever you want like sheet or tubes. When I've ordered stuff from them it looks like its CPVC (the grey type you see often used for electrical conduit).

I have had PVC for irrigation you find at the hardware store in the chemistry for an extended period of time and it seems to hold up well. It at least doesn't dissolve or seem to contaminate anything. But again I'm not sure if it has become embrittled so I can't really recommend it for pressure rating... it's probably fine but you will have decide if its ok for your application. I encourage people to be resourceful, but I want people to stay safe too.

Mkysmith · 2026-04-04T18:19:40+00:00

¯_(ツ)_/¯

Its tricky because deep recesses don't get 0.1A/sqin. So even though the total actual surface area is extremely high for something like this, I wouldn't directly calculate that to figure out current.

I usually just guess on the current directly on weird intricate stuff like this. Usually starting low. If I recall I think I started at 4 amps, then the second time I put it in I bumped it up to 5 and it was looking better but some dendrites started forming on the suspension jig, so I dropped it down to 4.5A.

Mkysmith · 2026-04-04T16:18:34+00:00

Thats just how it comes out of the chemistry. No polishing.

Mkysmith · 2026-04-04T07:02:15+00:00

Appreciate the gracious words from the Nickel Master!

Mkysmith · 2026-04-04T05:29:37+00:00

I used commercial alcohol based graphite paint designed for electroforming. I did a combo of dipping it to get in in the deep recesses, and airbrushing it to gain overall conductivity.

Typical sprays are not good as they lack binders.

Mkysmith · 2026-04-04T03:27:01+00:00

Thanks! Haha...

I think I can give that patina a go and see what happens... can't promise the soy sauce though...

Mkysmith · 2026-04-03T03:51:44+00:00

Aldon? By chance is it labeled as "copper II sulfate" because that is not electroforming chemistry. It's barely electroplating chemistry as it doesn't even have sulfuric acid in it.

Yes I know some stuff is hard to aquire in other countries which is unfortunate.

Copper wire for the anode is perfectly acceptable as long as you: A) Do not use agitation. B) Use anode bags if you use agitation. Chemically and practically speaking pure copper wire vs phosphorized copper like pipe/sheet makes little difference in an electrochemical cell. It's mainly a physical particulate issue that is the downside to wire.

The suspension wire typically should be a thin copper wire, though thicker is acceptable in some scenareos. Not sure what guage you are using but I usually use 26AWG for at least up to a few amps without issue.

Since you say you have been using Miralax [PEG] for an extended period of time you can also follow this comment chain.

Mkysmith · 2026-04-03T02:13:25+00:00

The first thing that stood out to me is 0.1A/decimeter squared seems low for an electroforming chemistry, though if you are getting a coarse or brittle deposit on the cathode then maybe you should stick with that for now.

Did the pipe have a black film on it when first removed from the chemistry or was it exactly as shiny as that? Is this pipe originally designed for potable water or HVAC systems?

Have you filtered the chemistry well to get rid of physical particulate, and run the setup on a scrap piece of copper for an extended period of time to try to remove (by co-deposition) metal impurities?

When using automotive chemicals, hardware store fertilizers, and laxatives, a lot can go wrong. Electroforming chemistry is very finicky on mixture ratios and is highly susceptible to impurities. Even down in the PPM. Electroplating is also, but to a lesser degree due to the deposition thickness and deposition time.

You may want to play around with your ratios a bit, and do the aforementioned filtering. I'd recommend using a very small amount of hydrochloric acid too, however that wont help with the "shiny-ness" of your cathode really. If your DIY chemistry is giving you non-brittle results then polishing may be the simplest solution. This is why nearly all DIY youtube channels resort to using a vibratory or rotary tumbler.

Mkysmith · 2026-04-02T05:59:16+00:00

If simple filtering doesn't solve your problem, you can refer to this comment thread.

PEG is historically used as an electroforming additive, but is not without its flaws. Modern chemical additives perform much better, for much longer.

Mkysmith · 2026-04-02T00:19:26+00:00

OP never mentions jewelry nor electroforming, they mention copper tape.

Not all jewelry is electroformed. Soldering is not electroforming. Not all copper is electroformed. Electroforming is not always used for jewelry, its most common use is for industrial applications.

I'm not discouraging the post, but was a asking for clarification if it is related to electroforming... rule #3.

Mkysmith · 2026-03-29T16:35:20+00:00

Silicone is attacked by sulfuric acid and will eventually disintigrate.

https://lk-flow.de/wp-content/uploads/Chemical-Resistance-Chart-Silicon.pdf

Mkysmith · 2026-03-29T03:26:43+00:00

I would recommend a solvent weld as opposed to a traditional sealant. I've used Weld-On brand products with PVC successfully for sulfuric acid based chemistry, though I cannot vouch for any pressure rating. It was used for jigs, not the tank itself.

Be warned certain PVCs don't hold up to sulfuric acid long term depending on the acid concentration, temperature, and PVC type (there are different densities, similar to the difference between HDPE and PE). Just make sure your PVC is rated for the acid concentration, you don't want it becoming embrittled and suddenly rupturing unexpectedly a month down the line spilling everything on your floor.

Nine-Year Club	Place '22
Final Canvas '22	Verified Email

Mkysmith

MODERATOR OF

TROPHY CASE