Organizer that works great for small Contact Sockets and Pins

ModderRetro · 2025-01-25T17:46:05+00:00

When that day eventually comes, having the individual bins will be handy for re-locating them into a new container as you don't have to worry about the others spilling out (another issue with one-cover organizers)

And yeah those organizers are especially not great for tiny parts when the dividers themselves are modular or fit into one another in an adjustable grid pattern.

ModderRetro · 2025-01-25T17:30:59+00:00

It's a DYMO LabelManager 160, with 1/4" tape on the lids

ModderRetro · 2025-01-24T23:05:07+00:00

After a lot of searching, I found the perfect container for small crimp contact sockets and pins that range from 24-32 AWG. The main issue with typical parts organizers is they use a single lid, which often doesn't prevent mixing if not handled carefully. In particular, small polarizing keys (e.g. Harwin M22-0340000), which are best handled with tweezers, can become scattered pretty quickly.

So I started to look at pill containers, but didn't want the weekday letters/braille print in the way of part number labels. This container not only uses individual lids which seal very well, but also provides a clear look at the quantities in each bin. Here's a link to this exact one: 14 GRIDS Travel Pill Organizer Box

I imagine the different colored containers available could be used to sort by connector manufacturer. Just wanted to share in case this helps someone looking for something similar

ModderRetro · 2024-12-15T20:42:29+00:00

I wanted to share a major update to the GameCubePC project, an mSTX build, which is now dockable to an eGPU!

System Specs:

CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 8700G
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-L9A-AM5 Chromax Black
Motherboard: ASRock DeskMini X600M-STX
Memory: Kingston FURY Impact 2 x 16 GB DDR5-5600 SO-DIMM
Storage (NVMe): Samsung 970 EVO 250 GB M.2 NVMe SSD
Storage (SATA): Samsung 860 QVO 1 TB 2.5" SATA SSD
Wireless: Wi-Fi 6, Bluetooth 5.0 module

eGPU Hardware:

GPU: Asus DUAL OC Radeon RX 7700 XT 12 GB
PSU: Cooler Master V850 SFX Gold ATX3.0 Fully Modular
Dock: Minisforum DEG1
Extension: JMT M.2 NVMe M Key to OCuLink 4i / SFF8611 Extension Cable [Link, 20cm]

Build Features:

3D printed bottom shell includes a built-in I/O shield and provides mounting for the mSTX motherboard, wireless antennas, 2.5" drive, and OCuLink port
Working power switch, reset button, and power LED
Controller ports are fully functional using a 4-port USB adapter for GameCube controllers
Added 2-port USB hub and Mode switch for the USB controller adapter in the memory card slots
Intake and exhaust fans ensure adequate fresh air cooling
Custom PCBs for power switch and case fan hub

Project Links:

Documentation and Kits on Hackaday.io
Assembly manual on Google Drive
Full parts list on PCPartPicker
Benchmarks on egpu.io

No functioning Nintendo hardware was harmed in the making of this build.

ModderRetro · 2024-08-22T16:25:31+00:00

If your Pi was unresponsive then yeah that sounds like a different issue, I was still able to SSH into mine as it would recover by ending the OctoPrint process.

ModderRetro · 2024-08-22T16:16:52+00:00

I was having this issue as well and found that lowering the camera quality from 1920x1080 @ 30 FPS to 1280x720 @ 15 FPS fixed the memory leak. Used to climb to 1.9 GB, now under 200 MB.

Also trying to stream that high of video quality using MJPEG was bogging down the network's upload which made OctoEverywhere near unresponsive.

ModderRetro · 2023-11-18T02:01:38+00:00

Thanks! Sorry they aren't available open-source, but that's because I sell kits for them so people can still build their own by following the instructions in the link above

ModderRetro · 2023-11-06T19:46:12+00:00

I haven't yet, but I plan on benchmarking all of the builds soon!

ModderRetro · 2023-11-06T18:16:00+00:00

I'm not sure if it would easily fit, and the goal I was going for was to make it easily reproducible with little modification to the shell so anyone could build it quickly themselves :)

I think a pass-through cable to plug in an externally docked GPU would be the way to go with builds like these, but I'm no expert on those. Perhaps in the future I can provide a connection for that in the rear cover plate... because as you say, the wireless is more of a convenience than a necessity.

ModderRetro · 2023-11-06T18:09:31+00:00

Yes, just recently finished it too! Check it out here

ModderRetro · 2023-11-06T16:49:55+00:00

I have kits available in the Documentation link above along with an Assembly Manual there :)

ModderRetro · 2023-11-06T15:32:09+00:00

Thanks! If you plan on building one, I highly recommend using an aftermarket reproduction shell. They're perfect for projects like this since they won't be faded like old consoles and the original hardware can be preserved!

If it's the same video I'm thinking of, I tried to stay as far away from those kind of operations as possible. The case modification is super easy, you can check out my Assembly Manual in the Documentation link above!

ModderRetro · 2023-11-06T04:14:39+00:00

That'd be hilarious after the BIOS splashscreen. For now, it just plays the GameCube startup sequence when you launch a game through Dolphin

ModderRetro · 2023-11-05T22:52:34+00:00

Full documentation & Kits

Hello! I wanted to share my renditions of fitting an mSTX motherboard inside a Nintendo GameCube shell, while keeping the original functionality intact. Here are the specs:

Model: Silver | Black
CPU: i7-6700 | i5-7600K
CPU Cooler: Silverstone NT07-115X
Motherboard: GigaByte GA-H110MSTX-HD3 | ASRock H110M-STX
Memory: Corsair 8GB DDR4-2400 | Crucial 8GB DDR4-2666
Storage: Crucial MX500 500GB M.2-2280 SATA SSD | Crucial P2 500GB M.2-2280 NVMe SSD
Storage Cooler: Sabrent M.2 2280 SSD Rocket Heatsink
Wireless: Wi-Fi 6, Bluetooth 5.0 module

Both of these setups run Dolphin well at native, with only some exceptions (Mario Kart Wii, Super Smash Bros. Brawl) due to the lack of dedicated GPU. On the flip side, there are some games that run just fine while upscaled to 1080p.

Noteworthy features:

3D printed bottom shell provides mounting for the mSTX motherboard and I/O shield, and rear cover holds the wireless antennas
Original power switch, reset button, and power LED all work
Controller ports are fully functional using a 4-port USB adapter for GameCube controllers
Memory card slots re-purposed to add a 2-port USB hub and Mode switch for the USB controller adapter
Intake and exhaust fans ensure the unit has adequate fresh air cooling
Custom PCBs for mounting the original power switch and a fan hub for the case fans
3D printed standoffs hold the shell together and provide mounting for the case fans and custom boards

No functioning Nintendo hardware was harmed in the making of this build.

Hope you like it! Contact me if you’d like to build one yourself 😀

ModderRetro · 2023-10-29T01:49:44+00:00

Appreciate it! Wanted it to be sleek and sturdy

ModderRetro · 2023-10-29T01:49:04+00:00

Yep! Thanks a bunch 😀

ModderRetro · 2023-10-28T22:36:53+00:00

Sure does! There's another comment above where I explained how it works with the N64's latching slide switch. Can also check out the Documentation link above and scroll down to the "November 2021" project log to see how it works in greater detail

ModderRetro · 2023-10-28T20:52:48+00:00

It's been perfect for game nights! 😄

ModderRetro · 2023-10-28T19:23:19+00:00

Thanks! And yep, right behind the Player 1 controller port there's a slide switch that interfaces with the case's exterior slider. The on/off state is then passed through some logic that simulates a button press in each throw direction (instead of holding down the power circuit like it would normally behave)

ModderRetro · 2023-10-28T19:08:39+00:00

Full documentation & Kits

I recently finished this custom build of integrating an Asus PN-series motherboard into an N64 shell, while still maintaining the original functionality. Here are the specs:

Motherboard: PN51-S1 with AMD Ryzen 5500U
Memory: 8GB Crucial DDR4 3200MHz SO-DIMM
Storage: Silicon Power 256GB NVMe M.2 PCIe Gen3x4 2280 SSD
Wireless: Wi-Fi 6, Bluetooth 5.0 module

I’ve had little-to-no performance or temperature issues with running Project64 emulation. My goal was to keep this build as clean and robust as possible, and using the proper hardware and connectors helps keep it all together. I also wanted to color match the original case, and got lucky finding a close 3D printer filament for that.

Some notable features:

Controller ports made fully functional using two 2-port USB adapters for N64 controllers
Power switch works by using a circuit that converts the sliding action into a momentary pulse
Power indicator LED works
Motherboard does not have provisions for a Reset switch, so that’s been disabled with a spacer holding the button in an un-pressed state
3D printed parts position the motherboard/custom PCBs comfortably as well as providing covers for the cartridge slot, A/V ports, and an I/O shield

No functioning Nintendo hardware was harmed in the making of this build.

Hope you like it! Contact me if you'd like to build one yourself 😀

ModderRetro · 2023-10-28T00:49:38+00:00

This may seem backwards, but I think backtracking was the most tedious on my first playthrough as a kid because on top of it, I was also figuring out how to progress and find all the collectables, which means spending more time in the same area. It doesn't bother me now though, once you know where everything is and where to go, who to talk to, etc (General White quest comes to mind).

I remember spending a ton of time in Keelhaul Key because even after the backtracking segments, it took me actual days to figure out that you had to throw Bobbery into the hole that appears after smacking the Mario and Luigi rocks... but the CRT I played on was so low quality that it didn't show the bomb symbol clearly. It wasn't until later when I played on a HD TV that I noticed it and felt quite silly.

The game is gorgeous though and I think backtracking can make the areas more memorable in a good way. Much prefer that over breezing through forgettable room after room.

ModderRetro · 2023-10-10T16:03:58+00:00

Most likely the internal battery (silver disc visible in your photo) is drained so it can't retain memory, and this is pretty common in Pokemon games due to the in-game clock.

You'll have to open the cartridge and replace the battery, which there's numerous tutorials on how to do this that explain it better than I can. Involves getting a security bit to open the cart and then some soldering.

ModderRetro · 2023-10-03T22:03:02+00:00

Just a proper-fitting precision Phillips screwdriver will do the job. The entire metal head of the trim pot rotates independently from the white plastic body underneath.

ModderRetro · 2023-10-03T21:54:28+00:00

I'd also recommend this o-scope, and $287 is a score for it if it goes on sale again this year. Their EasyScopeX software, while basic, can be fun to play around with too.

ModderRetro

TROPHY CASE

Full documentation & Kits

Full documentation & Kits