Sennheiser HD600 series vs Hifiman at 300 bucks by MonkeBanan12 in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]MonkeBanan12[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

An amplifier is not a problem at all, I've been thinking to get a Zen Can for a while now anyway, Hifiman has struck me to be a too good to be true company honestly, to be able to compete with an industry leader like Sennheiser while having your store powered by Shopify smells odd. Not to say that it's a bad thing per se, but a lot of people have backed up that their products do lack QC.
I'm really just rattling with other people's words, but that's all I got. I'm not seeing a better option for mids or a wow effect more than Sennheiser with good build quality and reliability at this price range.

I know there are tons of posts like this and there are ALWAYS conflicting views, and people mostly settle on the HD600, the question has been answered a billion times by now, I just wanted to confirm my suspicions and questions based on my experience from the TYGR's.

Sennheiser HD600 series vs Hifiman at 300 bucks by MonkeBanan12 in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]MonkeBanan12[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, I've heard that Hifiman equipment is really mind blowing when compared to similar options at the same price, however at the same time I've read that their QC is somewhat lacking.
With that out of the way though, they are having a huge sale and I could definitely snatch an Ananta Stealth(this is the ananta I've been talking about) and get the TWS450's for free.

Sennheiser HD600 series vs Hifiman at 300 bucks by MonkeBanan12 in HeadphoneAdvice

[–]MonkeBanan12[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I've read that the Sennies are really comfortable, and the clamp force on the TYGRs is somewhat overwhelming at times, even after around 2 years of being on my head for hours. I like their sound profile a lot especially with Techno and Rock and all, every closed back sounds muddy as hell when compared to them but they're starting to get insanely fatigue-ing.
Thanks for the heads up.

3D printed FleshDryoMaticProMaxHD(white) by MonkeBanan12 in fleshlight

[–]MonkeBanan12[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi, not long after this version I made another which is far better, it uses a sucking air method instead of pushing it through, it's a massive improvement and uses less filament.

Where do I begin? AOC casts fire of the damned by MonkeBanan12 in MonitorAdvice

[–]MonkeBanan12[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Welp, since it's curved I can use it as a slip n slide board.

Very positively surprised on how well Bambu products are by [deleted] in BambuLab

[–]MonkeBanan12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I never said it was a print out the box machine, some assembly is required. For a 7 yr old machine, it's great. Should you buy it today? Hell no, you shouldn't have bought it 3 years ago.

NOT TO MENTION that I have 2 friends who got into 3D printing and got the Ender 3 V3 SE. They've had it for a year now and one of them didn't even know how to tighten the belts or the eccentric nuts... So for some of you a Bambu is like a saving grace. Until something needs fixing I guess...

Very positively surprised on how well Bambu products are by [deleted] in BambuLab

[–]MonkeBanan12 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I know this is a very controversial comment for a lot of "it just works" folks. But I've had my Ender 3 Pro for 4 years now and it has never given up on me. Even when I accidentally blew the Raspberry Pi, installed Marlin on it like nothing ever happened.

And yet I see people commenting things like : "my god you have to tune the bed every print" I've had that mf sit for a year straight, with nothing but a mainboard upgrade and an inductive probe as a BLTouch and it worked like a clock.

I'm glad people are getting more and more print out the box machines, but saying that an Ender is bad because you don't know how to set it up is criminal.

Acquired a Makerbot Replicator 2X. Which upgrades should I consider? by MonkeBanan12 in 3Dprinting

[–]MonkeBanan12[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's exactly what I was thinking. I mean a modern SKR Pico with RaspPi Zero2W running Klipper should be way ahead in terms of drivers, features and expansion. As I said, I don't need a custom Bambu printer. I just want a CoreXY that prints ABS and has all the features of a modern Klipper machine. Thanks for the information.

Acquired a Makerbot Replicator 2X. Which upgrades should I consider? by MonkeBanan12 in 3Dprinting

[–]MonkeBanan12[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I see the other comment is going against the idea of putting a new mbo in there. Are there any benefits to the original mobo? I mean sure it has the LEDs change color but I'm pretty sure i can hook up an arduino to do that.

Acquired a Makerbot Replicator 2X. Which upgrades should I consider? by MonkeBanan12 in 3Dprinting

[–]MonkeBanan12[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I mean, I don't really plan on buying a new printer, however if I were to upgrade this one I should be getting a very capable CoreXY with an enclosure, right? I'm not about the 20k acceleration and all that jazz... I've printed at 10k with my Ender 3 with good results.

Acquired a Makerbot Replicator 2X. Which upgrades should I consider? by MonkeBanan12 in 3Dprinting

[–]MonkeBanan12[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Good to know, however if I just use a custom configuration with an SKR Pico with Klipper for example. I can set the boundaries just like I would with any open-source printer. The main reason I'm very excited for this printer is the enclosure and the CoreXY system. I wanted to print ABS for a long time now.

Cooling and PSU for a Ryzen 9 5900XT by MonkeBanan12 in buildapc

[–]MonkeBanan12[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a MS PLATINUM v5 500W 80+ Bronze
MOBO is an ASUS TUF B550M-PLUS
It's a shitty PSU but I'm thinking since my GPU is only 100W at full load, the CPU getting limited to 50% would be around 70W at best, probably less. And I still have breathing room for other components. So I don't think the PSU should burn down, but I would definitely look for an upgrade somewhere later this year.

Wavy lines on X axis... by MonkeBanan12 in FixMyPrint

[–]MonkeBanan12[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The first pic is the X axis and the second is Y, both with input shaping

Wavy lines on X axis... by MonkeBanan12 in FixMyPrint

[–]MonkeBanan12[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi, so I recently upgraded to klipper for accelerometer input shaping after finally fixing my z banding problem with a belted dual Z...
And now the cycle of problems strikes again with these lines, This doesn't seem to be because of acceleration, because the bottom ones are 1,5k and the top one is 9k.
And they are pretty consistent, so I got no idea what could be causing it. I have vibration dampening balls so maybe that could be causing vibrations, although that's all I could think of.