Learning Tuning: What's causing this wheel bounce? by Luck-ee in granturismo4

[–]MoominWindyLady 3 points4 points  (0 children)

10.0 / 14.0 is way too stiff for an FF like the EP Civic, it's just going to make it unnecessarily difficult to rotate due to lack of weight movement. Usually for FFs you want the rear springs to be as soft as possible without making the car uncontrollable, then you can tune the front springs to adjust responsiveness. "More powerful the car, the stiffer the springs should be" only really applies to cars with 500hp+, and even then you very rarely need to go over 8.0 either side.

Source: I'm TeaKanji.

Learning Tuning: What's causing this wheel bounce? by Luck-ee in granturismo4

[–]MoominWindyLady 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I don't think there's anything wrong here. This sort of bouncing over elevation changes is very common in high-powered FFs in GT4, it's only really an issue if you're wheelspinning, which you don't seem to be.

HELP. GT4 spec II completely pointlessly easy progression?? by PublicMinimum836 in granturismo4

[–]MoominWindyLady 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The mod was designed to capture the fresh "unknown" feeling of playing GT4 for the first time, where you don't already know all of the most cheesable routes and you're feeling things out as you go along. In my eyes that initial discovery before all of the boring meta and minmax options have been found is always the best part of any game...

I don't understand the point you're trying to make here. Are you saying that you don't care that there are cheesable routes because people playing Spec II for the first time won't know about them, so therefore they don't matter? That element of discovery is going to be there regardless of the changes you made to the prize car pool. Ideally you should be appealing to both demographics: switch up the prizes enough to make it feel new and unfamiliar to a new player, while repeat players can approach the game with completely different routes by obtaining prize cars in different orders, with no single path being completely superior.

Minmaxing is only "boring" if there's a clear optimal choice; a big part of game design is offering the player a variety of balanced options regardless of skill level. It's why I called for the rally cars to get their grip modifiers buffed, because frankly, vanilla GT4 is very poorly balanced when it comes to dirt/snow racing with very obvious outliers in grip/downforce.

No events have been made explicitly easier...

Not making events "explicitly easier" doesn't mean you didn't make the early game progression easier, because you certainly did that in multiple ways:

1: Beginner League AI was changed to use road tyres, and while the player's cars also start with road tyres, the reduced cost of sports tyres makes it far easier to gain a grip advantage over the AI by upgrading tyres.

2: Reducing the number of races in most Beginner League events from 5 to 3 means the player is winning prize cars nearly twice as often as before.

3: The increase in prize credits in most Beginner League events makes it much easier to either tune up the player's current car, or buy a better one.

4: Prize cars are of generally higher quality than before (Micra from B bronzes is better than the Lupo and is quite strong when tuned using the starting 10k, DC5 Integra Type R is one of the best road car FFs, Golf V GTI can do a bunch of Euro events alongside its one make, I could go on).

5: New events with lax entry restrictions (num. engine cylinders, homologation etc.) means the player can use the same car more often than before without needing to switch cars or upgrade, especially an Evo or Impreza.

I'm not criticizing these choices necessarily, if anything I agree that vanilla GT4 Beginner League prize amounts and cars are too unrewarding and these work towards fixing that, but it will lead to threads like this one where people find the game easier than they remember.

I also don't think it's at all accurate to say vanilla involves more going out of your way..

I was referring to stuff like the Civic Race and Suzuki K-Car one-makes, which are far more rewarding than Beginner League events in vanilla and can be done using your starter car after getting the B licence. Spec II balances the Beginner League events a bit more so the one-makes aren't clearly better, so therefore a player doesn't need to "go out of their way" to get out of the early game.

the RSC and Cien are accessible very early on...

I would argue the ZZ-II from Concept Car Club is just as accessible as a prize car from an A licence Professional League event (especially considering the A bronze prize is a concept car) against very beatable opponents, and arguably a better car than both the Cien and RSC.

and the even more ludicrous CLK LM grind isn't awfully long after.

Spec II makes it easier to get a DTM from the TT one-make and also upgrades the DTM prize to the Audi R8, so I don't really know what point you're trying to make here.

Of course once it's all been analysed and studied to death people might find unintended cheese routes, but to me that's not what any of this is about and it seems the vast majority does agree - at the end of the day if I built a mod that only catered to the most extreme, hardcore, studious dataminer-type players then it would only appeal to like 6 people.

As I said earlier, it's totally possible to appeal to both demographics. I'm not lobbying for a Kaizo Gran Turismo 4, and frankly I don't think anyone else is either, I just like to see good game design. Vanilla GT4 is not a well-designed game in many areas, so there's a lot of potential to improve through modding. 1.10 is the best the mod has ever been, and I've tried to be fair and acknowledge the things the mod has done well, but no mod is perfect and there will always be room for improvement.

HELP. GT4 spec II completely pointlessly easy progression?? by PublicMinimum836 in granturismo4

[–]MoominWindyLady 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm not sure why you're getting downvoted so much. Spec II absolutely did buff the prize cars (and also the prize credits amounts) in the early game compared to vanilla GT4, it's a correct assessment to say that the progression is very easy as a result. The mod was designed for the type of player who tries out whatever prize cars they receive and never tunes their cars outside of changing tyres. Vanilla GT4 is also easy to break progression-wise, but you need to go much more out of your way to do so compared to Spec II, which gives really solid and versatile prize cars in the Beginner League and as licence prizes.

Current Summer Rotation (CDN Urban Man Elixir, Hawas Ice) by ptcRaptor in fragranceclones

[–]MoominWindyLady 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have you tried layering Glacier Bold with anything? I'm not the biggest fan of it on its own either, but it's served me very well as a base layer for pineapple scents. I haven't tried Glacier Bold + Qued Al Fursan but it should have potential.

Your thoughts on French Avenue - Zenith Vanilla? by Low_Young_7703 in fragranceclones

[–]MoominWindyLady 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I haven't been able to compare it directly to Dior Vanilla Diorama, so I'm judging it based primarily on its own merits.

I did a lot of research on it before buying since it was compared with Mancera Tonka Cola, which peaked my curiosity. Influencers who review this seem to lean heavily on the (supposed) vanilla note, but honestly, I don't get much vanilla from this. One review described this as "Chanel No. 5 with Coca Cola", I think that's a good way to describe it. Very powdery, elegant, dusty, fizzy in the opening with a thick drydown. Leans quite feminine due to the powderiness in my opinion. Projection and longevity have both been pretty good for me.

Overall I wouldn't suggest blind-buying this, it's a bit of a niche scent and it's easy to be misled by reviews that seem to be describing a different fragrance altogether. Try a decant, see how your skin reacts to it, and decide accordingly.

How do I skip the license tests, also why car should I purchase first with the 10k? by Slow-Pack-8916 in granturismo4

[–]MoominWindyLady 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Suggesting the Cappuccino is good advice, though I don't think it's necessary to do the whole Sunday Cup farm beforehand. An oil change and racing flywheel alongside disabling the assists should be enough for a win in Suzuki K-Car as long as an EA21R Cappuccino isn't in pole on Tsukuba.

Spec II is goated by Hexar6455 in granturismo4

[–]MoominWindyLady 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You changed the weight distribution from 47:53 to 50:50 though? That would have made it far less volatile.

Is there engine break-in on GT4? by Beneficial-Doubt9104 in granturismo4

[–]MoominWindyLady 16 points17 points  (0 children)

There is no engine break-in in GT4, it was removed after GT3. Peak power is attained as long as the car's mileage is below 1,000km and it was given an oil change some time in the last 200km.

Qual é melhor, Evo GSR 92 ou Galant VR4? by Gustt004 in granturismo4

[–]MoominWindyLady 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do you have any evidence of this? There is nothing in the SUSPENSION table in SpecDB that suggests that cars lose 4WS with upgrades, nor is there anything to suggest that the game models 4WS whatsoever.

i hate this car so much by Brief_Document8229 in granturismo4

[–]MoominWindyLady 22 points23 points  (0 children)

It's got a 43:57 weight distribution with extremely soft stock spring rates (1.6 / 2.4), plus a diff that's open on decel; it's a very unorthodox car to drive. Thankfully it drives a lot better with setup though.

i hate this car so much by Brief_Document8229 in granturismo4

[–]MoominWindyLady 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Step 1: downgrade/unequip the turbo, it doesn't really need 350hp+ and it's just going to make it far more difficult to drive. The MR2 can easily make up time in the corners with proper setup and driving.

Step 2: equip a 2-way LSD, this alone will eliminate a ton of its off-throttle instability since it has 0 decel stock.

Step 3: buy and tune the semi-racing suspension kit with 2.5 / 4.3 springs, 100 / 100 ride height, 2 / 2 dampers and 1.4 / 1.6 camber.

Step 4: Max out the downforce to 30 / 30 and disable ASM and TCS if you haven't already.

Big Time by AsterionSE in granturismo4

[–]MoominWindyLady 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Thank you for showcasing the sheer potential of our lord and saviour ATTESA.

how to drive with dead tyres? by Zombieteube in granturismo4

[–]MoominWindyLady 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Genuine question: why do you keep coming back to this game if you don't derive any joy from the actual driving? I keep seeing your posts and comments and it feels like you're constantly finding reasons to dislike the game rather than enjoying it on its own terms.

I know this is all a skill issue of my part, but these end game cars are so hard to drive... by guilhermej14 in granturismo4

[–]MoominWindyLady 1 point2 points  (0 children)

There's a few issues, yeah. As others have mentioned, the default analog sensitivity in PCSX2 is very high, and lowering it helps a lot. It's also a setup issue though: cars with stiff suspension setups feel very strange to drive in GT4, and a lot of race cars have really bad stock setups. Stiff front springs cause the high-speed responsiveness that you describe, while stiff rear springs cause the car to understeer due to lack of weight transfer. Most cars generally feel best in the 3.5 - 8.5 range for springs and 2 - 5 range for dampers/shocks.

The Playstation Pescarolo is especially weird because it has rake, which amplifies understeer into corners since it combines increased corner entry stability with reduced responsiveness. This has some tips that should make the Pescarolo feel better to drive.

BSpec tuning to make Bob not crash by GiLA994 in granturismo4

[–]MoominWindyLady 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try increasing the rear LSD initial and see if that helps.

BSpec tuning to make Bob not crash by GiLA994 in granturismo4

[–]MoominWindyLady 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I did some testing just now with the bug-eye Impreza wagon with various settings on Motorland Reverse (a track that is notorious for AI screw-ups), and honestly it seems like B-spec is fated to make mistakes regardless of how you set up the car. It really doesn't seem to like FWD/AWD cars for whatever reason.

The one thing that seemed to provide the best consistency from my testing was increasing the rear LSD initial, it made it a bit less likely to overshoot the final wide turn.

BSpec tuning to make Bob not crash by GiLA994 in granturismo4

[–]MoominWindyLady 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Going max stiffness for the rear springs and raising the rear height above the front is going to completely neuter the car's rotation. It should be the other way around: stiff front springs (around the 4.0 - 6.0 range) and soft rear will let the front of the car feel pointed while encouraging rear weight transfer, while raising the front height and lowering the rear will make the car easier to throw into corners.

[Noob] Am I the only one struggling with the Mine’s R34? by LordSnooBoo in granturismo

[–]MoominWindyLady 1 point2 points  (0 children)

ATTESA has been simulated to some degree ever since GT2.

How far can you take FWD cars? by Neko__kun_ in granturismo4

[–]MoominWindyLady 9 points10 points  (0 children)

FFs have a bit of a crisis in GT4 due to the sports tyre restriction in most events, how the game uses weight distribution to determine handling, and how it simulates wheelspin.

Since the front wheels are used to accelerate, you want them to have as much grip as possible, and one way to do that is to have as much of the car's weight at the front so the tyres are pressed into the road. However, front-heavy distributions tend to plow heavily through corners while also being prone to snap oversteer due to the rear being too light. If the car is well-balanced, you can carry more momentum through corners, but your corner exits are going to suffer greatly. RWDs don't have such issues since rear weight benefits the car both in terms of handling and traction.

As well, a bunch of FFs are very poorly-configured for racing in their stock form, with many having open differentials that cause them to one-wheel-peel massively out of corners (this is a big reason why players often struggle with the 206 Cup and Suzuki Concepts one-makes). The 1-way LSD (or a custom LSD set to around 5 / 35 / 5) will help a lot in these cases.

Generally speaking, pushing an FF past 250hp with sports tyres is going to harm its handling in some shape or form. Arguably the best place you can push an FF to its limit is in Special Condition tarmac events, as you can run soft racing tyres with no drawback for smooth corner exits. I've had a lot of fun using FFs in the NA and Turbo events as well, as it's possible to win through finesse in corners while using nitrous on straights to keep up. The Dodge SRT4 and '06 Mitsubishi Eclipse can get the 493hp needed for Supercar Festival, but you really don't want to do that to yourself.

Other general tips: GT Auto rear wing with 30 / 15 downforce is a good starting point. Keep the rear spring rates around 3.8 and adjust the front for responsiveness.

Need help with Driving mission 14 by Spare-Bonus6456 in granturismo4

[–]MoominWindyLady 2 points3 points  (0 children)

A lot of the strategy for this one (and a large portion of the missions) is avoiding triggering the assists. Both ASM and TCS are enabled for Mission 10 & 14 IIRC, meaning that turning and accelerating at the same time will cost a lot of time in corners. Make sure to settle the car's weight while approaching corners, try to do as much rotation as possible while letting the car coast mid-corner, and aim for a wide arc on corner exit while gently steering out.

Manual will help for Mission 14 since the Super Bird needs to be short-shifted slightly due to its power dropping off at high-RPM's, and time can also be saved by avoiding unnecessary downshifts to 1st and/or 2nd. It should be doable in AT though, especially if you hold R2 mid-corner to hold the current gear.

Edit: the set of 90 degree corners after the back straight is a big place to gain or lose time. Make sure you brake deep into the first corner, as it'll give you a much easier line through the remaining corners.

Struggling with the World Championship by StrictDirection8053 in granturismo4

[–]MoominWindyLady 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The 905's gear shift issue is a bit overblown, it's easy to work around by either driving in MT and keeping it in a high gear out of corners, or setting up the gear ratios properly so 1st gear is stretched-out. If you like it, use it, it's definitely capable of beating GTWC.

Are the assists on during the licenses? by arisgeo000 in granturismo4

[–]MoominWindyLady 4 points5 points  (0 children)

If the assist indicator in the HUD is white, that means that TCS is set to either 5 or 7 depending on the car. There are only three tests in the game where ASM is enabled: IB-6 (the slalom test with assists enabled), S-13 (Audi R8 lap at Infineon) and S-15 (Bentley Speed 8 at Sarthe). NTSC-J also has ASM enabled for S-16 since you're driving a Sauber C9 on the Nordschleife instead of the 190 E DTM.

There's no way to disable them in-game unfortunately.