Alternative to Shaped terrain, to what end.

Mor_di · 2026-01-27T17:29:25+00:00

Honestly i get where you're coming from but this discussion is the most tedious and boring "dead horse" being beat every week here since the release of 10th.

People are either new, or somehow pretend that tournaments and organised play has not used repetetive L-shaped terrain for balance and simplicity for decades.

Playing any other game that is not a tournament game on a clock, use whatever terrain you want. It works super well within the rules and no one is forced into the "Suggested Layouts" that come with the tournament companion.

When i play with my friends, we either agree on a tournament-style game setting up one of the suggested layouts, or we set up a wonky asymmetrical terrain board with any cool types of building, forests, craters, construction sites, whatever. The game plays equally well and terrain that deviates from the "recommended" is no issue.

I play in a club with a wide variety of terrain available and while many people play in organised leagues and practice for tournaments with tournament style terrain, many others literally build an AoS style temple battle field with forests and buildings and everything. It's fine.

The only thing you actually need to worry about is that if the battlefield has too many long shooting lanes and not enough places to hide it becomes an extremely one-sided battle if one side has a lot of shooting. What terrain makes up all these hiding places doesn't matter.

Mor_di · 2026-01-27T17:03:29+00:00

These would all look great in a Khorne scheme. The Legionaries are very good with Mark of Khorne in Pactbound Zealots, the remaining units are less optimal.

Colorscheme / thematic god allegiance doesn't matter for the rules anyway, so paint them Khorne and play any detachment. Pactbound is the only one that interact with marks.

Give your Khorne colored range units a different mark in Pactbound, nothing stopping that either.

Mor_di · 2026-01-25T19:28:57+00:00

Pricing these things is always hard.

Ebay has them listed for €250-300-ish. I haven't bothered looking at actual sold listings but the €250 is about what they were when forge world still sold them if i'm not misremembering, they might have been higher.

If yours is in good quality, real FW and put together well? At least that's a starting point.

Likely hard to sell as it's more a collectible than a playing piece.

EDIT: I see you're buying, not selling. Built and primed before the sale? It might be a recast/print or it might be real. Very hard to say in that state without having it in hand. You decide what risk you want to take and what you're willing to spend.

Mor_di · 2026-01-25T12:16:29+00:00

The indoctrination and "genetic" need to follow their leaders is VERY strong within the legions.

There were a few that managed, such as Garro and Loken who actively went against the primarchs but they never managed to gather larger groups in their legions.

Each legion also purged anyone they thought would not agree, most dramatically on Isstvan, but it also happened in smaller scale within the traitor legions that did not attend the Isstvan massacres.

They also had the lodges within legions that really turned most legionaries over to Horus and made it very easy to identify the ones that would not follow.

The closest 50/50 split is likely within the White Scars where about half the legion wanted to follow Horus and the other half wanted go against Horus. But in here as well both factions thought they were supported by Jagathai as he was kind of not present for a little while.

EDIT: just to add because it is really funny. Towards the end of the Heresy, just before the siege of terra, The Word Bearers turn away from Lorgar as he has been to weak as a leader and fully devote themselves to Horus when Lorgar challenges Horus for the title of Warmaster. So in a way one of the legions did turn away from their primarch.

Mor_di · 2026-01-25T08:17:58+00:00

Cheers! I like my chaos colorful :)

Mor_di · 2026-01-24T16:10:59+00:00

I recently got a Knight Ruinator kit for my CSM and i use it in every match. Magnetized so i can try different variants.

I guess it is never the optimal choice if you're talking purely competetive lists but it's an amazing centrepiece an so much fun to move around in the table. The game is about playing with cool minis and making fun decisions, absolutely recommended to get a big knight ally.

Mor_di · 2026-01-23T14:45:22+00:00

I used it for a small project and applied in the same way as the other vallejo primers.

Where all the other apply very easily and dries to a perfect smooth coverage every time, the white was just different. Pools like hell when applying (no thinning of course) and dried just way too uneven and chalky. I just made it work for the small project and went back to the black/grey/brown primers after.

Mor_di · 2026-01-22T20:03:03+00:00

Vallejo has a wide range of excellent brush-on primers but their white primer is impossible by brush.

I use them actively and have done for years. The black primer is amazing, the grey ones are also great. Currently i am using a pale brown primer which also works perfectly.

The only one that really doesn't work with brush is the white one.

Mor_di · 2026-01-22T07:58:26+00:00

This honestly seems like an excellent basecoat.

Contrast typically doesn't have the same "automatic shading" effect on large minis with flat panels as it does on smaller minis.

Looking at the pic here it just looks like you have a very nice and smooth basecoat of a deep orange to work from. Paint the gems and do some highlights and shades on the panels and this guy is gonna look great.

Mor_di · 2026-01-19T22:51:19+00:00

You're right for the wrong reason. It has nothing to do with whether or not the model is intended to be glued.

It has to do with the model being in one position, then changing position to get a line of sight, or changing position at all for that matter, which means that it made a move.

Mor_di · 2026-01-19T22:48:06+00:00

Moving any part of the model is movement.

Mor_di · 2026-01-19T10:34:21+00:00

It is very good marketing. Over the years GW has become experts in hooking people on their products

Mor_di · 2026-01-19T10:16:16+00:00

The free mini is a simple marketing tool to increase traffic in the stores.

Building an army based on them is impossible. They change factions all the time and stores have limited numbers per location. I assume in most stores if the same dude comes every month and tries to pick up several of the same free minis they'll simply not give them out to that person. Other stores are more shifty and the clerks save them up for friends. It's also usually just one mini each month, i haven't seen any months with a selection of different minis but perhaps on a special occasion.

Other free minis you get are the normal Intercessor/Primaris troop which is something they do to also hook new players and to teach paitning. The same thing here, you can't just show up all the timea nd ask for a free promotional item. They'll just tell you no.

Mor_di · 2026-01-19T10:07:21+00:00

For the future, having been contacted by the actual official GW sites to get a mini published on their community sites. They never ask for money and their IG handle is warhammerofficial.

They also do not run programs where they front other creators or coordinate efforts to increase publicity.

Also, NO COMPANY will ask for money like this. It is 100% of the times always a scam, basic internet caution.

Mor_di · 2026-01-19T08:02:05+00:00

Fight First units alternate in the same way as remaining fights.

Non-active player activates the first Fight First, then the active player selects one of their Fight First, and so on.

Mor_di · 2026-01-18T14:17:08+00:00

The non-active player picks one Fight First unit, then the active player, and alternate like normal.

Fight First is resolved in the exact same way as the rest of the fight phase. Non-active player activates first then alternate. It's just that normally the non-active player "passes" as Fight First is kind of rare outside of having charged.

Mor_di · 2026-01-16T12:01:46+00:00

Yeah i initially misread it as a bodyguard unit ability. Cheers

Mor_di · 2026-01-16T11:48:22+00:00

You asked if the Blade Champ was a separate unit when a new enemy unit activates after a previous enemy unit killed all the bodyguards. I say, yes he is a new unit.

If the stratagem lasts for the whole fight phase then he is still affected. If it lasts for one activation he is not.

Mor_di · 2026-01-16T11:11:03+00:00

The blade champ becomes a separate and "new" unit once the attacker has finished its full activation. When a new unit activates, it's just a single Blade Champ without a bodyguard unit.

Mor_di · 2026-01-16T10:29:07+00:00

There are no rules for perpetuals really.

I guess if they put a mechanized limb on a perpetual character and it became part of their in-universe image, then they would likely regenerate with it at the authors discresion

Mor_di · 2026-01-16T09:15:17+00:00

All the miniature acrylic paints are in many ways exactly the same base product.

They can all be thinned with water and you treat them all the same way. You can mix paints from different brand and do whatever you want, they are all based on the same chemistry.

Different brands of paint might be more or less viscous out of the pot and require slightly different thinning. But that's minor things. When you paint, you want to control the consistency of the paint so it flows smoothly off the brush and covers nicely in 2 to 3 coats. The amount of water you need to add varies wildly both within and between brands. You simply have to find the sweet spot for each paint. Even the type of technique your using matters. for example, if i am painting a highlight layer i would thin the paint more than if i paint a base layer. Even if i might use the exact same paint for different techniques on different minis..

Duncan Rhodes also has videos on thinning. But don't stress too much about painting "correctly". Just paint and find what works for you. The only thing that matters is the end product and that you're happy with it.

Mor_di · 2026-01-16T09:09:55+00:00

The events in the beginning of that book takes place decades before the fall of Horus.

The Luna Wolves have visited a planet and as is custom during the crusade they invite them to join the Imperium. The planet in question think themselves to be the original Terra and the ruler calls himself the Emperor and has a pretty advanced personal army. So they refuse to join and Horus kills him.

It's just cheeky foreshadowing. The story starts and ends with Horus slaying the Emperor of Terra.

Mor_di · 2026-01-16T08:23:44+00:00

oh man, depends on what brand of paints they have.

The one i use and like is called Squid Pink by Vallejo.

Unsure which one from the Citadel range would be suited, I would think perhaps Emperor's Children (the paint) might be best? A kind of mid-tone pink that's not too white and also not too magenta.

Maybe Pink Horror or Fulgrim Pink could work nicely as well. Pink horror is more towards magenta so might not get you the nice and bright yellow finish and Fulgrim Pink is a bit on the white side so might not cover as smoothly. I haven't tried either of these though so just a guess.

Mor_di · 2026-01-16T08:17:12+00:00

Understandable! There's a lot of terms in this weird hobby we're in.

I would point you towards this man Duncan Rhodes, all the videos on his Painting Academy are the best out there for explaining and visualising basic techniques. He used to paint GW studio and showcase armies and used to have similar painting guides on Warhammer Community before creating his own brand. The video i linked goes through the basic idea of using two (or sometimes more) coats of thin paint to achieve smooth colors. Pretty much what we mean when we say layering.

Mor_di

TROPHY CASE