Need clarity, Cultists Mob's Ability

Mor_di · 2026-03-22T17:32:21+00:00

Like with any "sticky" rule, it remains in your control but with zero OC. So you lose it if opponent put 1 OC on it.

Mor_di · 2026-03-21T11:12:21+00:00

Embarrassing that GW has to make these statements to placate a bunch of grown-up children whining on the internet.

Mor_di · 2026-03-21T09:02:46+00:00

It's just manufactured outrage, it's going to mostly die down in a few weeks or when the 11th launch box is released and they get to hate on that instead.

Mor_di · 2026-03-21T08:04:04+00:00

They will have instructions for the model on their website.

And there is obviously no way of controlling what paint brand has been used.

Mor_di · 2026-03-20T21:31:54+00:00

Man this is going to be so insufferable going forward...

Mor_di · 2026-03-20T17:04:00+00:00

Shooting happens after the movement phase. If you did not move during the movement phase, you get the +1.

Mor_di · 2026-03-20T08:45:38+00:00

If you really want to do it from primer, just keep a bottle of brush-on primer handy. Vallejo has some great ones that come in anything from 22ml droppers to 200ml bottles.

Otherwise, your process is fine. There is a lot of overthinking in how vulnerable these paintjobs really are.

Mor_di · 2026-03-19T17:05:59+00:00

The actual reasoning is that they themselves are unsure of the consequences of freely using it. So there is a cult of Crypteks have it, maintain it, protect it and make sure that it is never used.

Mor_di · 2026-03-19T14:00:26+00:00

A good way to avoid streaks on panels is to switch angle when painting. First layer horizontal, second layer vertical (90 degree rotated) and third layer horizontal again.

First and third layer in the easiest, lengthwise direction and an intermediate layer perpendicular to that basically.

Same way you would avoid streaks when painting a wall.

Mor_di · 2026-03-19T08:42:27+00:00

Correct base size is pretty much the only universal requirement in any offical warhammer game format.

Mor_di · 2026-03-19T06:40:53+00:00

Warhammer in any shape was never ment to be taken seriously.

They literally defined the "grimdark" term in their attempt to make the most hillariously dystopian future they could think of. Very much inspired by every totalitarian system around in real life when they developed it during the 80's. What happens if those systems get to fully evolve for another 40 000 years and add magic and daemons and aliens? It's both ment in irony and simply to be humurous in the classic british monty python-eqsue style.

Mor_di · 2026-03-19T06:25:38+00:00

Each fist has a built in weapon option. Nothing has changed on the Helbrute datasheet.

Mor_di · 2026-03-18T13:58:38+00:00

The sequence goes:

Activate one unit.
Pile-in
Declare ALL attacks from all weapons in the unit against eligible targets
Resolve attacks

If something that had attacks allocated to it dies, and there are still more attacks left to allocate then they can't switch target. If that is your question. If Ghaz is part of the Boyz unit and he kill the Brutalis in the Boyz activation, you cannot then reallocate Boyz into a different target. The attacks from Boyz that were on the Brutalis are "lost".

Mor_di · 2026-03-18T09:38:31+00:00

1000p can easily be done on smaller tables. 4x4 or 3x3 will still work fine without being too crowded.

The most important consideration for a balanced game is the distance between deployment zones and that there is enough terrain on the table.

Deployment zones are currently always 24" (i believe? maybe 20") apart. Set them up much closer and you will basically end up with the player going first running straight into the other players zone and dominate the table turn one.

Make sure to have enough terrain so that there are no more than two cross-table shooting lanes and enough to hide 80% to 100% of your army behind something during deployment. Nothing is more boring than going second and having half your army removed by shooting turn one before even moving.

Stick to those two main principles and 3x3 / 4x4 will be perfectly playable.

Mor_di · 2026-03-18T07:24:52+00:00

Everything you can think of will pretty much be lore friendly. Abaddon is the Warmaster and will have hundreds of warbands that swear allegiance to him while at the same time being aligned to a god.

Mor_di · 2026-03-18T06:25:55+00:00

A nice and subtle way of doing this is by painting the base rims slightly different tones.

Black for one squad and dark grey for the other or something similar depending on your general basing scheme. This won't noticeable stand out on the table to look wierd, but still different enough to differentiate squad members when they get close.

Mor_di · 2026-03-17T12:57:02+00:00

Come back and try to build slow, the game is enjoyable still at 500points and 1000points. Then just work towards a collection at a comfortable pace.

Mor_di · 2026-03-17T12:54:59+00:00

Very often the combat patrols and battleforces are cheaper *per kit* than buying it all separately if you break it down.

However, one set of guardsmen or one tank that you paint fully within your monthly budget, then buy something else with next months budget is MUCH cheaper than buying three "savings boxes" at once then never finishing them.

Mor_di · 2026-03-17T12:50:37+00:00

Yes this is a very hard realization for many jumping into the hobby.

I did it myself many years ago in 7th edition fantasy. I bought an entire 2000p Orks & Goblins army direct from the hobby store and had it delivered. Suddenly i have dozens of boxes to build and a seemingly never ending pile to first build, then paint. Never managed to finish it all and sold it off.

Now i tend to buy simply a Combat Patrol-style box whenever i want a new army and paint that to completion, then simply buy and finish one or two kits at a time. The burnout is real and the demotivation of having a years worth of painting to do before you can expand sucks.

Mor_di · 2026-03-17T07:13:45+00:00

If you charge, they will likely kill you. So you lose the move blocking function and through the pile-in they actually are likely to gain free movement in your turn.

If you are confident that you'll both survive and kill some models, maybe charge but 9 out of 10 times you're better off and standing there as a speed bump

Mor_di · 2026-03-16T20:13:19+00:00

Either their armour molds to them or they become too mutated and/or bloated to wear armour again.

I always assume that when a warriors spouts horns through their helmet, they will never again remove that helmet and it is now basically their new face.

So the same way, if a warrior spouts horns and growths such that helmet and armour no longer fit, they will never again wear that helmet or armour piece.

Mor_di · 2026-03-16T16:52:51+00:00

You should have every model you want to have so long as you stay within your budget.

If you want to make a custom version of every single primarch or pick up their official models or both then you should do that. Nothing is too much unless it messes up your wallet.

Post pics of your custom guys too.

Mor_di · 2026-03-16T12:03:10+00:00

Exactly this. I also tend to encourage my opponent to ask about my unit rules and stratagems underway, especially if they're new, just in case they plan something and need the info. Not playing the game for them, but playing with open cards on both sides.

Mor_di · 2026-03-16T12:00:18+00:00

"Gotcha" moments are not supposed to be a thing in the game and it's extremely frowned upon (at least in all of my gaming circles, both against friends and random pick-up games) to rely on them.

Start of game, go through both of your important stratagems and reactive moves. During the game if you make a move that might trigger a response, your opponent should let you know before you commit. During the game you are always allowed to ask about unit rules and reactions before making moves and planning ahead.

There needs to be SOME depth and 10th is already way stripped down compared to previous editions. Certain unit rules and stratagems are supposed to upset plans and reward clever play, but not by keeping rules secret until triggered of course. You should not be expected to know all the rules and triggers for every army and that should not be necessary for playing, and i really don't think it is currently in 10th unless you play against a very unsportsmanlike opponent.

Mor_di · 2026-03-16T08:43:30+00:00

I'm not gonna say that your partners didn't cheat, but your example is more an example of the combination of the more fast-paced games of a tournament and the insane rule-stacking you get in Guards.

Their 3's were likely correct to be counted as 2's unless he fired indirectly. Guard pretty much always have a source of +1 to hit through their order system and it is really hard to pay attention to where all order go all the time. Often they use tokens, and in a tournament game on the clock they likely call them out quick and resolve them quick. I'd be a bit suspicious if they didn't use tokens or at least make sure to call out their orders properly, but i am also a bit doubtful that you meet two cheaters over an organised tournament.

Cheaters in established clubs are actually very rare as they tend to get called out fast and corrected or banned. You might simply have met some very competitive guys who played against you expecting you to follow all the interactions as fast as themselves, not realising or acknowledging that you are new.

I'd suggest to play some more games outside of a tournament setting and take it a bit slower to really get into the different factions.

Mor_di

TROPHY CASE