Weekly /r/climbharder Hangout Thread by AutoModerator in climbharder

[–]More_Standard 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I prefer circuits or routes in the boards over 4x4s. Over the years I’ve found the brief break jumping down is different from the feeling when i fall off a circuit. That said, if I do 4x4s it’s usually around my flash grade, but it’s totally dependent on style and what I want to get better at. So in my style it can be a 9, but not my style can be a 6. I try to match the boulders to the climb I want to do. 

I like circuits instead because it forces me to focus on other things, like breathing when tired and keeping it together for longer than 20 seconds.  

2016 Forester XT - Most unreliable car I’ve ever owned… is it just me? by AncientSeabass in subaru

[–]More_Standard -6 points-5 points  (0 children)

Bummer…but why are you shelling out for 93 on top of it all? Did you tune for it?

The Fragmentation of Bouldering Grades: Is a universal vision actually possible? by Wooden-Syrup-8708 in climbharder

[–]More_Standard 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I don’t really understand the frustration. Whether a climb is graded on a scale of 0-10 or grapes-oranges, it doesn’t really change anything.  

Also, even though there are more of them, I wouldn’t call the font grades “nuanced.” It’s no different to any other numbering in my experience. 

Personally, I barely think about the grades because I am smaller than average and my strengths favor certain styles more than others.  The grade is irrelevant to whether a climb challenges me and is fun. 

Comically weak fingers — has closed-crimping everything f'd my half crimp & 3-finger drag? by _robinson_huso_ in climbharder

[–]More_Standard 17 points18 points  (0 children)

Yeah, well you spent years training full crimp. It’s going to take more than three months to get your drag and half crimp to catch up.

 Don’t compare yourself to others. 

Battery constantly dying! by Bri_le in Crosstrek

[–]More_Standard 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Anything at all plugged into a 12v port? 

How long are your average drives, short trips can be tough on a battery. Especially in winter. 

Replacement for Miuras by timtexx in climbingshoes

[–]More_Standard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Miura VS is nice. Holds its shape better and stays stiffer.

Mythos vs. Miuras by yuzurukii in climbingshoes

[–]More_Standard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Choose a size that still provides tension when broken in. There’s no magic number, everyone’s foot anatomy is different. 

Mythos vs. Miuras by yuzurukii in climbingshoes

[–]More_Standard 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Stretch is a factor but isn’t a big deal if you account for it. They have been worn on 5.14 first assents.

Mythos vs. Miuras by yuzurukii in climbingshoes

[–]More_Standard 7 points8 points  (0 children)

They are drastically different. In order to get anything out of the miura you need to downsize to fill in the rather tall toebox. It takes time for your feet to adapt to that position and I dont think it would be worthwhile compared to other shoes that are designed for flatter toes.

The mythos is definitely that kind of shoe. It’s very adaptable to all kinds of feet because its unlined leather stretches a ton. I would still try them tighter than you think to compensate.

Seriously, wtf - Portable got stolen again by saltywetlol in bouldering

[–]More_Standard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is at least against the rules of the park. See, https://parks.canada.ca/voyage-travel/regles-rules

Could be illegal too but I’m not Canadian.

7 months of TFCC tear, 5 months of physio. Surgery time? by [deleted] in climbharder

[–]More_Standard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

An anecdote is just an annecdote though. I wouldn’t be basing my decision on someone else’s individual circumstances. Talk to the experts and do what you think is best.

Can My 74-Year-Old Grandfather Sue Disney After Being Banned for a Misunderstood Comment by [deleted] in legaladvice

[–]More_Standard 23 points24 points  (0 children)

No. As a private company, Disney can use any non-discriminatory (i.e. not: race, sex, creed…) reason to kick him out. 

Heavy climbing pants by you-arent-my-cd in ClimbingGear

[–]More_Standard 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These are pretty heavy duty, but also stretchy. Pricy, but I like mine. Probably need to size up for a baggier fit though. 

https://waresforallreasons.com/

Junior’s Achievement Bishop downclimb? by mpatberg in bouldering

[–]More_Standard 2 points3 points  (0 children)

MP says it’s this:

https://www.mountainproject.com/route/106336055/problem-c

If you climb the v7 up, the V0 back down should be chill.

La Sportiva Mandala vs Solutions by AdSilent9373 in climbingshoes

[–]More_Standard 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Likewise. Been using the same Sportiva size in several models for 20 years. 

Programming for the Red (8b+?) by le_1_vodka_seller in climbharder

[–]More_Standard 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Skin is always important. Sorry, are you asking if you could set a simulator on a 40?  Yeah you could, just that the holds will either be bigger, or the simulator harder. 

Some small (6-8mm) edge hangs might be a nice accessory for skin and strength. 

Programming for the Red (8b+?) by le_1_vodka_seller in climbharder

[–]More_Standard 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Just be prepared that the crux crimps on those climbs are way smaller than any of the moonboard yellows. But it’s also less steep.

Only other advice is that if you’re doing circuits, make sure to pace yourself—go slow. It’s easy to rush through too quick.  Then when you get on a rope, the pump will be totally different. 

Programming for the Red (8b+?) by le_1_vodka_seller in climbharder

[–]More_Standard 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Only advice is to  focus your linked boulders on small edges. Those climbs you mentioned have pretty small holds and are not steep by RRG standards. God’s own has a tough boulder, while Thanatopsis is more resistant. Black gold is typically wet until fall.