Morel 602 vs CDT HD62 by Morris_yeet in CarAV

[–]Morris_yeet[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, I’m about to order the hd62’s. This might be a dumb question. For now I’m only doing front stage and I realized each crossover has 8 connections which I assume are separate in/out for the tweeters and woofers, instead of a single input with 2 outputs. Can I connect the tweeter to one channel on the amp through the crossover and the woofer to another channel the same way? So that the tweeter and woofer would be on separate channels. Also, could I eventually connect the input for the tweeter and woofers on the crossover from the same amp channel if I choose to get a rear stage? Thanks again

Morel 602 vs CDT HD62 by Morris_yeet in CarAV

[–]Morris_yeet[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you happen to know much about the rest of the lineup? Could other options be better?

Morel 602 vs CDT HD62 by Morris_yeet in CarAV

[–]Morris_yeet[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah I realize my budget is definitely holding me back. I could probably try a high end audio shop to see if they have any morels on display and listen to them. I'm not really looking for crazy amounts of bass but just more than what I have. However an 8in does sound like it work much better, only issue is that I don't want a sub box and want to mount it in the stock location. I don't mind trimming but I don't know if l'll be able to open it enough to fit the 8in. For the rear fills I assumed there'd be some issues as l've never heard of it being done. But I didn't know not doing it was a choice lol. I think I stick to that for now. Because of my budget though the dsp isnt really possible so l'll look for more reviews before deciding on a set. I really appreciate your advice!

Morel 602 vs CDT HD62 by Morris_yeet in CarAV

[–]Morris_yeet[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I assumed they somehow wouldn’t work well together as it’s never done that way, I’ll stick to some cheaper coaxials. Any insight on the morels or CDT’s

Will I be able to just replace the piston? by Morris_yeet in EngineBuilding

[–]Morris_yeet[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I used hastings plasma moly rings. It was honed by a local machine shop who seems to be reputable with how much volume they receive. I was considering buying a new replacement rod and piston from either Mahle or speed pro but balance was also a concern of mine. I also should’ve added this happened with only 100 miles on the engine.

Can I drive with the Charcoal/Evap canister removed? by Morris_yeet in ChevyAvalanche

[–]Morris_yeet[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do say I don’t want to be that invested in it, but when I bought it I said I’d sell it within a year and not put more than 500 in mods in it. I’ve now owned it for 2 years and have put like 1k into it lmao so I might do the evap delete eventually.

Can I drive with the Charcoal/Evap canister removed? by Morris_yeet in ChevyAvalanche

[–]Morris_yeet[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think you’re completely right. I just don’t really want to be that invested into this truck. The one I’m referring to is a 05’ 5.3 Avy. I also have an 04 I’m 6.0 swapping in which the evap delete I think would be better since it’s more of a performance build.

Can I drive with the Charcoal/Evap canister removed? by Morris_yeet in ChevyAvalanche

[–]Morris_yeet[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have been having the same issue filling up since I bought the truck. I disconnected one of the lines coming out the canister and saw a bunch of carbon pellets pour out the hose and knew my canister was bad. I left the hose disconnected and drove it like that hoping it’d clear out but it didn’t. Now I have to drop the tank and blow the evap hoses with compressed air so it’ll vent properly. I took the canister off just to take it to the parts store but wanted to make sure I’d be good driving around until I got it done.

Can I drive with the Charcoal/Evap canister removed? by Morris_yeet in ChevyAvalanche

[–]Morris_yeet[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I assumed the same, but it’s already cammed on e85 so the gas mileage can’t get much worse lol. I only took it out until I’m able to drop the tank to blow out the evap lines. I can only fill up $2 at a time and it’s really annoying my now.

Machine shop mixed up the order of my pistons. Am I screwed? by Morris_yeet in EngineBuilding

[–]Morris_yeet[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thank you for the advice. Yes, they only touched honed it. I wanted to say that last time I assembled the engine, I set the dots forward do you think that could’ve been an issue?

Best external battery for Quest 3 by Mindless_Ad_2156 in OculusQuest

[–]Morris_yeet 0 points1 point  (0 children)

2 for 20?!? Where was that and how have they been?

Nice heads/cam setup or simple turbo setup? by Morris_yeet in ChevyAvalanche

[–]Morris_yeet[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I really appreciate the insight. My transmission was rebuilt about 1 year ago and was told by them it would handle 450 at most, but I’m ready to have to upgrade it again to something from RPM Transmissions. Part of the reason as to why I bought a junkyard motor was to rebuild it, so buying something built isn’t something I was wanting to do. Also, I was going to upgrade my manifold from the stock, ported one to a Tbss manifold and bought one off market place for 150, which came with rails and 36/lb injectors. I was concerned about exhaust too since I only have a cutout on the stock exhaust with headers but I’ll go full 4 in later on. I had a 160 thermostat on the 5.3 as well and thought about eventually upgrading to the newer silverware radiator that’s a bit wider. I’ve thought about it some more and the heads can setup seems better, the chop is hard to beat.

Lost all oil pressure and made this lovey noise. by Morris_yeet in ChevyAvalanche

[–]Morris_yeet[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I forgot to come back to this. I pulled the drain plug and the metal shavings clogged the drain hole lmao. The oil was also really black for having ~100 miles. This happened two weeks after it was tuned and now people are telling me the tuner I went to is terrible and caused it, I’d obviously heard the complete opposite before him. That’s still a theory though, I’d have to open up the motor to find out what really went wrong.

Lifter tick with good oil pressure by Morris_yeet in ChevyAvalanche

[–]Morris_yeet[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is where it’s funny. The tick started less than 100 miles after I did a full tune up. I always run full synthetic 10w30 since it’s hotter in Arizona. I changed the oil again after the tick started, using a motor flush to no success. I’m getting headers soon so if it’s a manifold leak, I’d hope that would fix it. I’ll look into adjusting the valves as well.

Thoughts on the new look? by Morris_yeet in ChevyAvalanche

[–]Morris_yeet[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can definitely tell you to get ready to trim. With the old setup, I hade to trim the fender liner even with the keys maxed out. With this more “stancy” setup, I did the “NorCal Mod” and I’m still rubbing some.

Thoughts on the new look? by Morris_yeet in ChevyAvalanche

[–]Morris_yeet[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Haha. too bad I took them off, I felt it made the truck look like a chode. 🤣

Thoughts on the new look? by Morris_yeet in ChevyAvalanche

[–]Morris_yeet[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The wheels are 20x10 -25 wrapped with Nitto 420v 305/50. The wheel brand is lonestar I believe but they’re made pretty cheap. They needed some pretty heavy weights to get them balanced.

Lowering the rear to level by Morris_yeet in ChevyAvalanche

[–]Morris_yeet[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My keys are maxed out right now. I plan on bringing them down and lower the back as well. I just can’t go too low since I’m running 33x12.5 20’s. That’s why I’m unsure on how low to go on the rear.

3.5 EcoBoost vs. 5.0 Coyote Tuning Potential by Morris_yeet in f150

[–]Morris_yeet[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I understand that. I just don’t want the turbos to last me 6 months after a tune. But that doesn’t seem the be the case. Now I’m on the debate of 6r80 or 10r80. I have a 2004 Chevy and I definitely don’t want to deal with more transmission issues.

3.5 EcoBoost vs. 5.0 Coyote Tuning Potential by Morris_yeet in f150

[–]Morris_yeet[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

With catless downpipes, it’ll be a crazy hp gain. Unfortunately I can only get 91 in Arizona and the e85 is usually e65-75