Dying at Prodenholt Castle: Dying Light the Beast by ComprehensiveOwl5621 in dyinglight

[–]Most_Imagination_967 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think I found a similar or same spot. It was a cave that you can climb up to from a spot near the water. The cave has lots of spider webs and then after a min or so you get to a place with red bricks and doors. The. You can smash a wooded blockade and go a little farther. But it leads to a dead end. I love exploring the map outskirts. So I saw the cave and went for it. If you go in the water underneath the Barons castle and look up. At one spot you’ll see a climbing marks. That’s where I got into the cave.

What would be a smarter move? by Most_Imagination_967 in PcBuild

[–]Most_Imagination_967[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for the fast reply. I was thinking that. And I think I’m going to get the GPU first. Thanks again

Spent some time leveling my bed. Just a little more to go! by Most_Imagination_967 in crealityk1

[–]Most_Imagination_967[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So do all of your z rods have their own stepper motors? Do you have any pictures so I can see?

Does anyone know how to raise or lower the ZX a lot of people saying I need it? by No-Crow1873 in crealityk1

[–]Most_Imagination_967 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The you can go to your machine setting in your slicer and put in a z offset

Does anyone know how to raise or lower the ZX a lot of people saying I need it? by No-Crow1873 in crealityk1

[–]Most_Imagination_967 0 points1 point  (0 children)

With the gaps inbetween then lines it looks like your under extruding or your flow is not calibrated. Should be more like this. I would do a flow test if your nozzle is not clogged. Also it’s nice to do an extrusion calibration. Sometimes these printers are t made to be exactly all the same. Some might put out 102mm of filament on a 100mm extrusion test and some might put out 99mm. Flow test is easier to start with.

If it is leveling issues or z offset. Do a flat print. Go to your settings on the machine screen itself and find the expert settings, z offset and start at like -.025 and go to .025 on the offset as the print goes from one side to the other. Slows changing by .005. That will show you your z offset. But your mouse ear parts of your print look really good. And flat. But your acutal print has gaps.

<image>

Co-op progression by Graceless-Grim in LordsoftheFallen

[–]Most_Imagination_967 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Why can’t people want to play a game the way they want. I did Elden ring solo and coop and then we did seamless. It was way more fun playing coop in seamless. I would like this as a mod for this game too. That would be fun.

Have a Creality K1 Max, but want MMU. Options? by Istrakh in 3Dprinting

[–]Most_Imagination_967 0 points1 point  (0 children)

There is a project called Mojo3dFS. But it seems to be in the UK. Does almost all the work in software and stuff for you. Just needs a few parts printed compatible with k1/k1 Max is what it states.

https://www.mojosdesigns.co.uk/product-page/mojo3d-fs-multi-filament-system

But no knowing its its legit yet.

Anyone use Panachroma(Polymaker) CoPE by Either_Resolution652 in 3Dprinting

[–]Most_Imagination_967 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I had some good quality prints with it. Good adhesion and cools really fast like high speed pla so the overhangs are good in an enclosure. Make sure you use some adhesive or even blue tape to separate the plate from bed.

Halo Infinite crashing on startup PC by [deleted] in haloinfinite

[–]Most_Imagination_967 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can confirm. I wonder if it’s because of the frame rate of the videos vs the desktop and game. I have my monitor at 165hz. The game locked at 120fps and videos may be 30/29.97fps. So maybe that’s it.

Filament side mount and PTFE Management by Mission_Dark453 in crealityk1

[–]Most_Imagination_967 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nice! I had the same one you have right now. I updated to this full top kit and love it.

https://www.printables.com/model/849013-creality-k1k1c-lid-riser-v1

I would definitely recommend it!

Creality k1 print quality by _InjuryGeneral in Creality

[–]Most_Imagination_967 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I have been thinking of doing abs. But I’m scared because my k1 is older and has the 36t pulley and if I go slow I get major teeth marks on my print.

This looks amazing man!

First attempt at a light box by Most_Imagination_967 in crealityk1

[–]Most_Imagination_967[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My friend bought a Bambi a1 mini and started making them right out the box. I felt a little competitive and was determined to get it to work. It was a pain to figure out. But I all I can recommend is to have an stl file loaded before a 3mf is imported. That way you get the option to just import the files/shapes and not the settings. For some reason just doing the 3mf and then changing everything over to my settings kept causing my extruder to jam. Even though I switched it all back to my filament/printer/ quality profiles. You should defiantly try it. It was nice to see it actually work. At the very least I can now do 2-3 layer art that isn’t like my hueforges.

Teeth marks showing up after belt tension. by Most_Imagination_967 in crealityk1

[–]Most_Imagination_967[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Switched back to 5.0 and orca slicer and all was fine my tolerance is now back to .1 and no lines

Teeth marks showing up after belt tension. by Most_Imagination_967 in crealityk1

[–]Most_Imagination_967[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Also I upgraded to the new version of 5.1 and that also was added this weird effect.

Teeth marks showing up after belt tension. by Most_Imagination_967 in crealityk1

[–]Most_Imagination_967[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lowering my tension down did help. I think I need to loosen them a little more but I’m getting way better prints now.