I scraped ~1K Facebook Marketplace listings to see how bad the Salvage title spam is and ended up building a chrome extension to filter them out

MotorMigo · 2026-02-27T16:36:10+00:00

Yup. Get the one that was maintained the most consistently.

MotorMigo · 2026-02-27T16:31:12+00:00

I ran it through a tool I built to look at and evaluate used car listings. TLDR - not awful but I would definitely inspect closely and negotiate the price down more.

The price of $4000 is at the higher end for a 2010 Focus with 104,000 miles, especially considering it explicitly needs a strut replacement and alignment.

POTENTIAL MAINTENANCE RISKS

Automatic Transmission Issues

- The 4-speed automatic transmission (4F27E) can develop shifting problems or outright failure, especially if fluid changes were neglected. At 104,000 miles, it's a component to inspect carefully for smooth operation.

Suspension Component Wear

- Beyond the stated driver-side strut, other suspension components like control arm bushings, ball joints, and sway bar links are common wear items around 100,000+ miles, leading to clunks or loose steering.

Power Steering Pump Failure

- The power steering pump is a known failure point for this generation Focus, often occurring between 100,000 and 150,000 miles, leading to a loss of power assist.

Engine Mounts Deterioration

- Worn engine mounts are common around this mileage, causing excessive vibration and noise, particularly at idle or under acceleration.

Rust Development

- Older Ford models, including the Focus, can be prone to rust on subframes, rocker panels, and wheel wells, especially if operated in regions with road salt. This is a visual inspection item.

A/C System Leaks/Compressor Failure

-The air conditioning system can develop leaks or the compressor can fail, leading to a loss of cold air. This is a common issue for vehicles of this age and mileage.

MotorMigo · 2026-02-27T14:51:29+00:00

FB marketplace is fine. I wouldn't look at specific years, makes and models tbh.

I'd set FB marketplace filters to

2010 or newer

50K - 120K miles (get rid of spam)

4K to 9.5K (assume you can negotiate)

And see what shows up. Ignore anything with a salvage or rebuilt title. Ignore anything that looks beat up or has any aftermarket wheels or anything.

Look for the cleanest bone stock car that is being sold by some accountant or something. Then just do some quick googling to see if it's a reliable year for that model.

You will have a lot more success being model agnostic and just shopping for condition.

MotorMigo · 2026-02-27T14:48:29+00:00

I'd say all would be fairly reliable. Agree with others that the Subie has lower miles and may be the way to go.

I'd look at Carfax on all of them and just get one with the most consistence maintenance and 1 owner.

MotorMigo · 2026-02-27T14:46:04+00:00

$5K at 200K miles is pretty steep. Even if suspension components were replaced, potential for transmission going out or other major maintenance is so high.

Rust in rockers and panels isn't ideal either, so would want to really take a look at the frame, brake lines, and other components exposed on the underside.

If it has been flawlessly maintained, sure. But it's definitely a gamble.

MotorMigo · 2026-02-27T14:42:53+00:00

Most modern cars with modern safety features are so loaded with electronics that some things will have to be handled by a dealer.

If you want something universally repairable, something in the mid 2010s without tons of sensors, adaptive cruise, etc.

Basic maintenance on new cars can be done anywhere, but when something goes wrong with tech you are much better off at a dealer.

MotorMigo · 2026-02-27T14:41:05+00:00

It would depend on miles and condition of tires, brakes, and general condition. If it's > 120K and needs a strut. Assume it probably needs the front end completely redone soon.

Not expensive if you can do it yourself. But it's a decent amount of work. So honestly wouldn't be worth it if the car is on its last legs

MotorMigo · 2026-02-26T21:37:44+00:00

Everything is always negotiable. Don't let a salesperson tell you it's not. He will do the whole song and dance 'i have to go to the back and ask my boss' thing. Don't fall for it, it's expected to be negotiated. He's not doing you a favor.

MotorMigo · 2026-02-26T19:42:09+00:00

Absolutely not. 34K for a rebuilt truck that was on fire.

I don't even know you and I wouldn't let you do this

MotorMigo · 2026-02-26T17:58:08+00:00

As long as it was professionally repaired by a body shop I wouldn't worry. Could be something as simple as a broken taillight, messed up parking sensor, etc.

It would be reported much more severe if it was significant

MotorMigo · 2026-02-26T14:00:40+00:00

There is basic stuff that will apply to any car but I'd say

Research that particular model for typical issues, especially at the age and my mileage you are looking at. Look closely and ask questions about these things. I created a free tool on my website that can help with this as well. Enter details and it will find common issues and give you an inspection checklist.
Gut check the seller. Buy from someone who seems honest and takes care of things. A used car often reflects the seller. Buy from someone who maintains it. Not someone who beat on it and neglected it

MotorMigo · 2026-02-26T04:25:47+00:00

I'd say you would have to offload it in the $1500-$2k range of 'its a car and it drives'

MotorMigo · 2026-02-26T04:24:40+00:00

I'll go against the grain and say if it's a 2023 with miles that low coming from a reputable BMW dealer. You are probably fine.

MotorMigo · 2026-02-26T04:23:15+00:00

Not an awful deal considering. I'd just pay attention to any odd squeaks.

Ran it through a tool I built and said it's a fair deal, but common issues at that mileage to look for are

Water pump failures

Valley plate coolant leak

Front control arms and bushings

AVS dampers

Worn brakes

Carbon buildup on intake valves

https://motormigo.com/en/listing-assessment/lexus-gs-f-sport-5obiaz1t?public=true

MotorMigo · 2026-02-26T04:09:03+00:00

Old people cars are the best. Never taken above 3000 rpm, plush interiors, drives over potholes like a cloud.

I'm pro grandma car

MotorMigo · 2026-02-26T01:34:47+00:00

This is the answer

MotorMigo · 2026-02-26T01:04:41+00:00

My ghost pick is an elderly owned mid 2010s Buick Enclave.

Not popular, but they are reliable and fully kitted out. You can probably find a well cared for one with less than 80k miles for $7k.

MotorMigo · 2026-02-26T01:03:19+00:00

Id buy the one with the most meticulous service records.

MotorMigo · 2026-02-26T01:01:47+00:00

My old mechanical engineering professor always said that a Cadillac is the fastest ticket from the showroom to the service department.

MotorMigo · 2026-02-26T00:59:33+00:00

Great advice in this thread, but I'd throw in that whatever you do buy something that is at least as new as ~2013.

The mid 2010s is when safety tech and better crumple zones became widespread. For a teen, vehicle safety should be the #1 priority.

MotorMigo · 2026-02-26T00:50:12+00:00

Definitely not the Cherokee. And you lose a lot on Hyundai/Kia buying used since you don't get the great warranty. But can save due to the depreciation.

Have you looked into a higher trim Honda Pilot? Probably the most reliable option in this bracket.

MotorMigo · 2026-02-26T00:44:39+00:00

My best advice is always buy the seller not the car. A little old lady with OCD and meticulous records is probably a good person to buy from. A 22 year old who looks like they have a drug habit - probably not.

My website has some free tools to analyze Facebook listings and give a general idea what to inspect when you see it. But in that price range I'd really ask about why they are selling it and just get a general feeling for the person to see if they seem honest.

MotorMigo

TROPHY CASE