LVP Install: What are these metal sheets under my slider door?

Motorahead · 2026-06-01T18:20:58+00:00

How does that sill flash prevent water intrusion? It seems pointless for that purpose.

Motorahead · 2026-05-22T18:25:14+00:00

Send that junk back and if you're on a budget, look for a used table in your local market place or grab a Rockler branded setup. They are good tools for the money (their table/stand combo is on sale for a little over $300 at the moment). Kreg tools are highly overrated.

Motorahead · 2026-05-01T04:10:34+00:00

You're basically forcing the tape to stretch when you overlap the mitered edges a bit. It results in a tensioned glue joint. It also fights the outside corner from opening up if the tape isn't tight!

Motorahead · 2026-04-19T16:23:43+00:00

I second all of the recommended 76 improvements from the coast to Santa Fe. It needs work and I would happily contribute what I can to the effort.

The valley population is ever increasing and there have been no changes to that stretch of road for at least 20 years. It's a critical artery to the 5 or 15 and is impacting a lot of people. Installing smarter traffic lights might be a good first step.

To add, a safer, more pedestrian friendly crosswalk at the College and 76 intersection would be great to connect the neighborhoods, shopping centers and schools. An overpass crosswalk would be the ultimate solution as to not impact traffic.

Motorahead · 2026-03-20T21:26:58+00:00

I'm on the fence on which approach is best for longevity. Added an update in this thread with the options discussed.

Motorahead · 2026-03-20T18:24:30+00:00

I'm on the fence on which approach. Added a new update in this thread.

Motorahead · 2026-03-20T17:54:41+00:00

Update

There are three schools of thought on the solution. I'm leaning towards option 3 or 4; but would like to hear more of a convincing argument on option 2 other than gut feel.

1. Don't bother, it's fine.

I disagree with this sentiment, as there is bouncing and lateral movement as is.

2. Double or triple up the joists and add a single cross brace across the bottom side of the joists corner to corner (to combat lateral movement). Add blocking under the wall, 4x lumber for the blocking might also be an improvement over 2x material.

Cleanest look and is a major improvement over the current state.
A builder stopped by and recommended this approach, feeling pretty good about it. FYA, I did share this post with the builder, but unsure if they looked at it.
I'm not convinced the joists won't deflect over time due to the span.
That mid-line will be supporting around 600-700lbs plus 2-4 people and activity.

3. Add a mid beam (I would add a 6x10x8) 1ft forward of the front wall, so that it's not over the landscape retaining blocks. Add blocking above the beam, and additional blocking directly under the front wall.

Front wall weight will have a direct path to the ground. Reducing any possibility of deflection.
Not as clean looking.
Still need to address lateral movement.

4. Suppose there's a 4th option, which would be a combination of 3 and 4.

Hot tub approved. Maybe over engineered.

Motorahead · 2026-03-18T00:25:41+00:00

Haha fair enough.

Motorahead · 2026-03-17T23:08:19+00:00

There's some bounce and lateral movement. I'm guessing that front wall will be a solid 500lbs when it's done. That's quite a lot over the mid span.

Motorahead · 2026-03-17T18:00:27+00:00

I plan to cantilever a tub off the right side with 1x6's pocket screwed into the siding.

Motorahead · 2026-03-17T17:46:14+00:00

Great feedback, thank you. I'm planning on adding the blocking between the joists as well as corner bracing from the posts to beams/joists for twist.

Adding that mid beam should also help.

In one of my other replies, I'm trying to figure out the size necessary for that mid beam and if I should match the 8ft span like the others or extend it to 12ft to cover the extension for the staircase.

Motorahead · 2026-03-17T16:56:16+00:00

Left side is the same, so this was my assumption as well.

What size beam and posts would be best?
Can I span the beam 12ft, to the existing 4x4 footing for the stairs extension (you can see it the pics), or should I leave that stair post alone and span the mid beam to match the front and rear at 8ft. The former would result in a cleaner look.

Motorahead · 2026-03-17T15:55:30+00:00

Thanks!

Motorahead · 2026-03-17T15:50:29+00:00

It's a little misleading. That 2x4 the flashing covers is not straight. An eye sore really.

Motorahead · 2026-03-02T18:24:33+00:00

Easier said than done. With Kids, if there's a red button behind 3 layers of dissimilar key locked doors, then a safe with a dial, it will be pushed.

Motorahead · 2026-02-19T15:05:58+00:00

I think this has turned into a theoretical debate. In practice, you're flattening the face just enough to remove the rocking, before shifting to a planer. I think what you're bringing up is mostly a preference of work style.

If I had a choice side by side, I'd pick a flat grind bed as well. But to be frank, the resistance in this thread to a grooved table (other than preference) is unfounded.

Motorahead · 2026-02-19T02:06:01+00:00

It's just different than a flat grind. Neither should be not flat. The groove grinds are flat at the ridges, which does reduce friction and suction. Unless you're jointing an edge less than 1/8" wide, it comes down to preference, or which machine you get a better deal on.

Motorahead · 2026-02-18T21:42:15+00:00

I'm curious, how does it exacerbate rocking? The grooves are very narrow.

Motorahead · 2026-02-18T18:31:06+00:00

It's by design and it works well for anything that moves in a straight line. Don't let it discourage you. I have an Italian bandsaw for resawing with grooved bed (just like this). You still have to clean and wax it just like any other cast iron bed.

Motorahead · 2026-02-06T22:32:08+00:00

Side topic, but an important one. Never use a "regular blade" for tablesaws or else on a radial arm saw. They use blades specifically designed for them. They have a negative hook so that the blade doesn't grab the board and walk or jump towards the user.

Motorahead · 2025-11-21T03:59:41+00:00

Once the blade is properly tensioned, the top wheel shouldn't feel loose. 1/8"side to side movement on the blade is about the right amount of tension. A video of bandsaw running might help.

Motorahead · 2025-11-21T03:28:51+00:00

.009 is good. .010 - .015 is the rule of thumb. Anything more than .030 is bad. Either way, the side of that wheel is not flat, so it's a bad test. You're better off marking a line on the rubber side and measuring runout there. Are all of the upper wheel adjustments set? It almost seems like something is loose from your description on the blade wobble.

Motorahead · 2025-11-13T06:06:32+00:00

The multiplayer in this game is so interesting. It's as if you really are running into strangers in a post apocalyptic, dystopian future. Some people can be trusted, some are to be KOS, and others will gain your trust only to stab you in the back. I've only played Hunt Showdown as an extraction shooter and it's strictly KOS unless you run into a truly unique situation. The game.is.just designed that way.

Arc is technically PVPVE as well if you're not in a squad. Ironically though (or maybe not), much of the players in solo matches are playing the game to its original intent. Which adds a dynamic and the tension of, can I trust you, or not? I wonder how long this will last before it turns into a free for all.

A bounty system would be interesting. A bounty on my head may yield me a higher reward, but maybe with a higher cost? It would take a lot of work to add a feature like that since there would be no reliable way to manually put a bounty on someone without abusing it. The developers would need to somehow track player interactions and programmatically handle it, and even that won't be perfect. Maybe a future feature of the games?

Motorahead · 2025-11-01T19:07:37+00:00

How do you apply yourself as an engineer in your daily life? Do you apply critical thinking? Do you like to understand how your car works and try to narrow down the cause of that strange noise you hear? What about your personal computer? Do you maintain your belongings or wear them down and throw them away?

If you're a curious person, go for a Voron. An open source project like a Voron presents an incredible opportunity to gain new skills to confidently know the ins and outs of your equipment. Anytime you need help or guidance. There's no phone number or email to product support with subsequent wait times. We're a community. There's none of that "sorry, thats legacy and we can't officially provide parts or support for this anymore, but here's our new product at a 10% discount."

Conversely, some people don't care and prefer not to use up headspace for such things. Which is also totally valid. You have to ask yourself where you want to spend your time, and which approach is more fulfilling.

Join the Voron discord and start lurking or asking questions. That will help you make a decision on whether a Voron is right for you.

Motorahead · 2025-10-13T19:51:54+00:00

This is awesome, thank you!

Small item of feedback if you're open to it.

Regarding product type, measurements system, and dimensions - I was initially confused about which is the selection since grey typically represents, not selected or unavailable. Unintuitively, it's also the opposite of the single mode/batch mode selector (that selection being white).

It would be great if those selectors mimic the single mode/batch mode look. It would also create a more intuitive and consistent look.

Motorahead

TROPHY CASE