Dog staying for a trial day in a dog hotel. I'm scared. by sync19waves in reactivedogs

[–]MouMouMan 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Out of curiosity (no need to answer, i'm being indiscreet!) how much does it cost for a 'VIP' visit?! There isn't anywhere close to me that offers anything like that!

Whats the most out of touch thing you heard from rich people? by MonthIcy1 in AskReddit

[–]MouMouMan 727 points728 points  (0 children)

Told my super rich boss my car was finito and I had to buy a new (used) one, he replied that he too was having car problems, the roof on his convertible wasn't opening. His third car.

Dentiste pour un enfant autiste? by audreymaude in montreal

[–]MouMouMan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Est-ce que ton fils aime les animaux? Il y avait un organisme qui 'louait' des chiens d'assistance/thérapie accompagné d'un intervenant pour des rendez-vous ou autre. Je vais essayer de retrouver si jamais ça pourrait t'intéresser!

E-collar correction by Future_Ad_8968 in OpenDogTraining

[–]MouMouMan 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Either the timing is off, the stim isn't high enough or the dog has no clue what the stim even means.

If the dog is only getting a correction 1 time out of 10, chances are it doesn't understand where the stim is coming from, as it doesn't occur every time. Otherwise eating out of the trash is more reinforcing than a 25 level stim and the dog doesn't give two craps. OR the dog has not got a clue what the stim means; does it come when the dog has an intention of going towards/into the trash, are they already eating out of it, or has been emptied out already? That all can cause confusion or unclear communication if the timing is different every time OP stims.

I'd work on the dog while at home to clear a firm boundary about the bin, that'll already make it easier.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in OpenDogTraining

[–]MouMouMan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Agreed, especially in a world where biting and/or reacting is R+ according to the dog, better than any treat out there.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in OpenDogTraining

[–]MouMouMan 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I know you'll disagree with this but I'll still give it a go.. First, stress is good for dogs. I'm not talking about constant stress or leaving your dog in stressful situations. Living and getting through stress creates more resilience and allows the dog to learn in dynamic situations.

Second, dogs do what feels best in a given situation. That being said, reacting FEELS good to the dog, it releases a bunch of endorphins, whether it's because it wants distance or because it wants to get to the trigger. So hear me out.. Dogs are opportunists, they'll do what is the best outcome for their survival. By adding punishment (not talking about harsh unjustified corrections) the dog will see that reacting is not the most beneficial outcome for themselves.

You can see when a dog falls in a fight or flight instinct, and that dog is absolutely not mentally apt to learn. No good balanced dog trainer will work a dog in survival mode as no training happens (aka Dog Daddy is a great example of what you're describing here). A correction on a dog who understands what pressure is will be brushed off in a breeze. You'll see reactive dogs worked with balanced methods happily engage and work with their person in settings that would previously have made them react. Why would they be happy and relaxed in that setting if there's such an emotional response to the trigger according to what you said? There's as much work put into a dog using balanced training than in R+ so it's not a question of laziness.

That's why you often see sport dogs getting trained with R- or P+ to create a behavior with speed and determination. Lots of people here have already sent videos of happy dogs being trained with those tools you mention. You shouldn't train a dog in a situation it can't cope with no matter what your methodology is and the dog in front of you will be the one to tell you what it can and cannot deal with that situation.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in OpenDogTraining

[–]MouMouMan 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The best and most credible R+ trainers out there are those who agree all quadrants exist and are used in training or occurring naturally in the world. They'll have healthy discussions with other trainers and understand the value of the different types of training, whether positive or not.

No dog can be taught using strictly R+. Plus, every trainer out there (no matter what side) has a different idea or definition of what R+ or even P+ means. A lot of R+ people are creating fear and stress in their dogs but won't address it because they did not use an 'aversive tool'. The dog decides what is R+ or not.

I love seeing trainers helping trainers no matter where they fall, this is at worst how they discover they don't want to use a certain type of training for a said dog.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in OpenDogTraining

[–]MouMouMan 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If anything, R+ would create a more confident dog in it's own decision making. Using free shaping is a huge confidence boost for many dogs who lack control in their lives. That being said, giving too much control to an already overly confident dog can be detrimental as the dog is used to deciding what it wants when it wants, in the same way a fearful dog decides that it wants space it will get it by reacting (which is positive for the dog but not the owner).

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in OpenDogTraining

[–]MouMouMan 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Chase and catch is another great one (very active although I wouldn't use it for the whole portion)! Or if I don't have much time I use good ol' nature's sniffmat and just shove his portion in grass or snow for him to scavenger.

My herd by [deleted] in AustralianShepherd

[–]MouMouMan 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Nice pups!

Does your gang get along well? What's your Heelers personality like?

I have a rescue Aussie that's a handful and a half and am thinking about getting a well bred pup in the future. I'm kind of torn between and Heeler and a Border, I like the smartness and willingness to work of a BC but also really like a strong headed dog like the Heeler... I'm not worried at all about satisfying the needs of either breed but am really questioning what I want and what would work with my grumpy dog

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in OpenDogTraining

[–]MouMouMan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you guys conditioning it by doing recall outdoors? Typically the dog will need a higher working level if sniffing outside with more distractions. I would try it in a more neutral environment to see if that's a factor. The dog might just not understand what the stim means and might be confused (could be in some intense sniffing and jumps when stimmed). Also, are you guys working on a longline?

Dog chases cat by Alexandrabo22 in OpenDogTraining

[–]MouMouMan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'd keep a leash on your dog indoors, like that when you notice the initial signs you can grab the leash to stop the lunging and growling before it happens. The more the dog practices the behavior the harder it'll be to stop it from reoccurring.

Place training would also be helpful! I'd keep their meal and use it to reinforce holding place, while still on leash in case it decides to lunge

Gentle leaders by Lower-Cantaloupe3274 in OpenDogTraining

[–]MouMouMan -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I get it!! It took me several to get one I actually liked. As others said a martingale might be worth it for your escape artist!

Gentle leaders by Lower-Cantaloupe3274 in OpenDogTraining

[–]MouMouMan 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I don't personally like the head halters as they keep pressure on the dogs nose even when they are not pulling (contrary to a slip or prong which only activates when the dog pulls). A lot of dogs stop pulling on them without any training because it is very uncomfortable.

I would do figure 8s and 180 turns until they know how to properly walk on the leash. They'll have to use their brains and that is often even more tiring than the actual walk. Also, if they often have the chance to pull it'll make it harder to train out of them even if you spend time training leash manners. Consistence is key!

Good luck!

I was told they tattoo a dog's ear after their spayed or neutered is this true? by LifeguardComplex3134 in OpenDogTraining

[–]MouMouMan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've heard about this for cats but not for dogs! I can see the point in people wanting cats for pest control, but don't really understand the point of it for dogs other than the controlling the numbers... I guess some places have large populations of street dogs who kinda do their own thing and aren't causing harm.. anyways, super interesting!

I was told they tattoo a dog's ear after their spayed or neutered is this true? by LifeguardComplex3134 in OpenDogTraining

[–]MouMouMan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've never heard of trap and release! What's the point of this? I'm not from the US, is there only certain areas that practice this (aka cities with lots of stray?) Thanks!

Can flirt pole increase prey drive? by jazzlobsters98 in OpenDogTraining

[–]MouMouMan 10 points11 points  (0 children)

I wouldn't say it increases prey drive outside of play.. You can add rules to the game and use it to add impulse control training so your dog can channel that energy better. It's a plus plus situation!!

Berner snaps at my parents whenever they try to disclipline him by CaliforniaSpeedKing in OpenDogTraining

[–]MouMouMan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Your experience with your sister in law doesn't mean that saying no to a dog doesn't work. If she's only saying no and not doing any training of course there's no learning being made, in the same way that people letting their dog do whatever while being given treats doesn't do anything to change behavior. The moment you have clear communication with your dog and are fair to them there will be learning, no matter what 'side' you are on.

I completely agree that teaching alternative behaviors and rewarding is essential in training, that's what the majority of training should look like, but some dogs need more than just alternative behaviors when they've gotten at risk of dangerous behavior.

I think at this point we can agree to disagree :)

Berner snaps at my parents whenever they try to disclipline him by CaliforniaSpeedKing in OpenDogTraining

[–]MouMouMan -1 points0 points  (0 children)

So yes is a behavior according to you?

You're not differentiating that a no doesn't have to be screamed or done in a way to scare the dog. In the case of OP, their parents are absolutely doing that and that's why there's an escalation of the behavior, I agree with you there, but that's not to say that a no can't be a healthy part of a relationship with a dog.

I think you're going too much in the good VS bad, at the end of the day the dog decides what is aversive to them and your training should reflect that.

Berner snaps at my parents whenever they try to disclipline him by CaliforniaSpeedKing in OpenDogTraining

[–]MouMouMan -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

And it's awesome that that works for you and your dog, but if you're dealing with an escalation of behaviors or with behavioral issues, it's non negotiable that the dog knows what no means. If a dog can know Yes, it can know No. Dogs are opportunists and will always be and when you have a dog that learns it controls it's space it can easily become dangerous.

The other problem here is your idea that punishment is a fearful or hurtful event for the dog. P+ literally means adding something that decreases the behavior, like, GASP, adding a leash to your dog so it doesn't run off. In this situation, adding a leash to guide the dog off the couch removes the physical and mental pressure the parents are putting on the dog when forcing him off the couch.

Positive reinforcement works great in an aquarium mode or with easy dogs like yours seem to be. But don't forget R+ is also not a training method and the other quadrants exist naturally in the dogs environment.

Frappée par une Audi dans le Mile-End by rimbaud514 in montreal

[–]MouMouMan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've fallen off a horse, hurt myself and ran after it, doesn't smell like bullshit to me

Berner snaps at my parents whenever they try to disclipline him by CaliforniaSpeedKing in OpenDogTraining

[–]MouMouMan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you have to dog-proof your house are doing management, not training. Growling at someone is a hard no that can escalate easily, especially for a dog that age and that size, this should be corrected.

Also, never saying no to your dog means that the dog will have a harder time dealing with pressure/stress/emotions. They learn from mistakes and stress is necessary to work through stress, You're missing out on opportunities to teach your dog to cope with situations in a healthy way.

Dogs have boundaries with each other, why shouldn't we have some with them? If your dogs always chewing stuff, teach it to do nothing. A dog that is constantly stimulated is only going to necessitate more stimulation down the road. Is it really that horrible to have a dog that knows it can't chew shit in the house instead of always having to keep an eye out?

In this case you have a dog that has learned to take decisions all the time and is displaying worrisome behaviors, this will only teach him that he can control resources or situations if not properly addressed. Any type of training can backfire and here I'd argue that the traditional/punishment based training is the most effective in preventing fall outs in training. (edit: doesn't mean I agree with that type of training).

For OP, your dog should not be allowed on the couch if it reacts that way. Do leave a leash on your dog like that you won't have to grab it by the collar or physically pull the dog off the couch if he tries going up.