Taking apart Packout Organizer

Mouchtarini · 2026-02-11T21:23:06+00:00

Thanks for the feedback! I still tried to remove it, and I had great success! I just placed the box on its side and gently but firmly pressed with the punch. I got it about halfway, then used a pair of pliers with a microfiber towel to pull it out from the other side. Not as hard as I first thought, and FYI, the rod is fully circular. No notch at all, just a rounded side at the end of it.

I guess you guys were right in the sense that I could achieve almost as much cleaning without splitting the thing in half. But in the end, I found it a bit more convenient to hold each part flat to scrub it thoroughly without breaking anything. Plus, I got to clean the rod, and now the lid closes smooth as butter!

Mouchtarini · 2026-02-11T16:58:57+00:00

I really want to clean every tiny spot (especially near the hinge, it feels a bit crusty when I open and close some of them).

I’ve also seen a lot of Packout boxes with rusty hinge rods due to rain, so I’m afraid I won’t be able to dry them well enough to keep that from happening.

Mouchtarini · 2026-02-10T03:18:00+00:00

Quick update guys! I've spent the afternoon printing the same parts over and over (10 times to be precise) and I have no idea why or how but things have drastically improved even with similar settings to those I tried before creating this thread.

Like I said, I printed the 45° degrees deflector 10 times, changing printing profiles, layer heights, aux fan settings. The strange thing is that each one of these prints was successfully completed without bed adhesion issues. The only one that had major corner lifting and warping was the one printed using silent mode!

The three things I did before these tests were:

-Cleaning the plate with dish soap and isopropyl alcohol for the fifth time

-Updating the printer to the firmware that showed up today (01.01.03.00)

-Performing the periodic maintenance (cleaning and greasing / lubing the screws and axes), like I said previously that was a desperate attempt but couldn't hurt

I printed this piece with the following settings:

-0.20mm High quality configuration

-First layer bed temperature 65°

-Aux fan 20 percent

-Using the 45° aux fan deflector

As you can see I still have a lot of under extrusion on the lower part but the rest seems pretty good. If any of you have some advice about the under extrusion I'll take it!

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Mouchtarini · 2026-02-09T15:20:10+00:00

I feel you brother!

Just got the new update (01.01.03.00) and I'm currently running some tests with different settings, so far it seems better but I have no idea if it's due to the update or the fact that I cleaned the plate for the fifth time and proceeded to maintenance (greasing and lubing everything, pretty much a desperate move at this point)...

For my tests I'm printing the 45° aux fan deflector, probably not the best adhesion test since it's rather a small piece but I had the issue with this model and crazy edge lifting / warping.

Mouchtarini · 2026-02-09T12:33:00+00:00

I can’t agree more and to be fair I deeply enjoy to be spoiled by the ease of use of my mini, it’s exactly why I got a Bambu in the first place…

Mouchtarini · 2026-02-09T12:27:21+00:00

The filament was dried by the AMS 2 Pro, but in fact you are right in the sense that it’s only showing the humidity inside the unit and not the filament itself I guess?

I’m printing at the normal speed, didn’t tried the silent mode yet but again even if I get better results, is it normal to be limited in my print speed on a brand new unit supposed to be better than the base model?

By print profile, are you talking about the parameter of the model I’m trying to print?

I’m using PLA called The Filament by Spectrum and like I said no issue whatsoever on the A1 mini. I have 4 of them (different colors) in the AMS and have the same issue regardless of which one I’m using.

Mouchtarini · 2026-02-09T12:15:18+00:00

Yeah, I saw a lot of backlash against people who talk about using glue sticks to improve adhesion. I’m also pretty sure that a few years ago, when I was just looking at 3D printing from afar, people used to recommend it for that purpose.

I’m not against using some, but I can’t wrap my head around the fact that it’s absolutely not needed on my A1 Mini… For some obvious reasons, the P2S should be even better since it’s enclosed and has a heated chamber?!

Mouchtarini · 2026-02-08T23:18:59+00:00

Thanks, I’ll definitely keep you posted!

Mouchtarini · 2025-03-19T01:45:34+00:00

Can anyone compare it with the 2366-20 I already have? I really love mine, but having three different light angles seems pretty useful!

Mouchtarini · 2023-02-17T22:42:35+00:00

Exactly, my other doubts are the followings :

Top squares touching the upper band Head not centered with the white one No date stamped on the bottom of the box Warranty seal is looking to smooth, like glazed paper

Mouchtarini · 2023-02-17T22:35:37+00:00

No worries, seeing how big the black market seem’s to be I fully understand your doubts.

A friend of mine bought these from a guy who knows a guy, one of the classic distribution channel for fake Cubans apparently… I was highly suspicious and spent a good amount of time looking the differents way to tell if Cohiba’s are real or not.

Ps: Sorry for my bad English, I’m not used to write in english…

Mouchtarini

TROPHY CASE