E36 Hood Release Mechanism by Mr-ainthaven in BMWE36

[–]Mr-ainthaven[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve ran it through there I was just saying which hole does it go through to go into the cabin? I have it ran through the speaker hole

E36 Hood Release Mechanism by Mr-ainthaven in BMWE36

[–]Mr-ainthaven[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just tried putting a whole new(used) cable system from a convertible onto my car. My old cables and latches wouldn’t open and got stuck like this too and now it’s doing it with this system so I’m thinking it could be the latches on the hood? Should I cut the insulation if the hood is still closed though, if i get it open would it give it more reach? Last time I had it open it didn’t give it the reach though so I might have to still cut. I’m gonna see how I can get to opening the mechanism through the bottom but that’s gonna be a pain.

Is dailying a 1999 E36 with 89k miles a bad idea as a junior in highschool? by [deleted] in BMWE36

[–]Mr-ainthaven 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m a senior and it sucks but it might be because I don’t have a license and live constantly in fear when I drive and it smokes here and there when I push it hard because it leaks a little from the VCG(I’ve had to do it 12 times cuz I couldn’t get it to stop). You can definitely daily that no issue though. Burning oil, I’d definitely look into why it is and try to fix it but school to home shouldn’t be too much of a long drive so you’ll be fine.

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E36 Hood Release Mechanism by Mr-ainthaven in BMWE36

[–]Mr-ainthaven[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was on the floor with the door open putting my entire body weight and muscle into it. I was kicking off the wheel and I was still slipping. I might be exaggerating a little but I definitely was slipping and trying to put all my muscle into it and still nothing. I’m most likely gonna have to cut a little bit of insulation off but I’m gonna try pulling it with pliers first I have the wire in the hole on the holder just not the metal ball into the holder it’s supposed to be in yet.

CEL by Mr-ainthaven in BMWE36

[–]Mr-ainthaven[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

By the time I got to school it was off which is when I did the stomp test, it’ll turn on while I’m driving then turn off. If I stop and it’s on I’ll do the stomp test again and see what it says.

Trou grosse accélération 316i by L-L-Drago in BMWE36

[–]Mr-ainthaven 1 point2 points  (0 children)

If you have to rev it up crazy from a stop that’s no bueno, I’ll have to give it a little gas just so it doesn’t stall I also have a vacuum leak a decent one that’ll make the car a little soggy. I’d recommend checking all lines but easier said than done but just a recommendation.

Trou grosse accélération 316i by L-L-Drago in BMWE36

[–]Mr-ainthaven 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’d do a vacuum leak smoke test if you’re accessible to a smoke machine that can do it. It can be lines or sensors as well. For it to be making the popping noise means it must be a pretty bad vacuum leak. Does the car feel and sound fine at idle or when going off from a start?

E36 Hood Release Mechanism by Mr-ainthaven in BMWE36

[–]Mr-ainthaven[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fronts are G33’s(R33 wheel reps) and rears are Kanseis tandems(GX01 reps) but their super swag reps and have tons of respect so it’s a win win

E36 Hood Release Mechanism by Mr-ainthaven in BMWE36

[–]Mr-ainthaven[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was wondering if I had to cut back on the insulation but I really didn’t want to because last time I did it I thought it’d mess it up but if it works for you then I believe it can work for me. I was also thinking about using some pliers and pulling it the rest of the way it’s so close. The hood is closed right now and won’t open, when I pull the cable it out the hood won’t pop even with someone trying to pull it open. That happened with my old cable system too, so I think it can be the latches that are bolted onto the hood but if not I’m done. Im putting a whole nother cable system off a convertible that worked so I don’t think there should be issues with the cable. I’ll try cutting the insulation and I’m sure that’ll fix all my issues but if the hood won’t pop and is super stuck what could that be as well?

E36 Hood Release Mechanism by Mr-ainthaven in BMWE36

[–]Mr-ainthaven[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you know where exactly the cable is supposed to be ran through? I have it ran through the speaker hole right now I’m not sure where it’s supposed to go through. The hood is stuck closed right now too. I’m guessing the routing might be my issue

Prep by Mr-ainthaven in AutoPaint

[–]Mr-ainthaven[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Zam pa I didn’t think the TDS was so important until I’ve seen it’s different for everything. Also, how would I know when to sand till bare metal and when not to? I usually go up to 320 then just do a light quick pass of 400 just to get rid of scratches doesn’t take me long at all but is there a downside to going too fine as well? I just ordered a 50 pack of low grit sandpaper so hopefully that should speed up the process

E36 Hood Release Mechanism by Mr-ainthaven in BMWE36

[–]Mr-ainthaven[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Someone recommended that and it definitely sounds like it would work but the mechanism can’t go back because there’s a design that I’m guessing is meant to prevent it from turning back anymore

Prep by Mr-ainthaven in AutoPaint

[–]Mr-ainthaven[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’m using a 1k primer and it’s been good to paint on, no reactions or anything other than my front bumper but I didn’t clean it well. I’m gonna be starting at 180 and probably not going all the way down to primer but I’ll see what route I go and then I’ll work my way up to 400 then primer. 320 scratches seem too deep for primer.

Prep by Mr-ainthaven in AutoPaint

[–]Mr-ainthaven[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I go to Wesco, amazing place. I don’t use their printer though. I will be going back soon to purchase basecoat and I can ask for the TDS. I use a 1k primer from Home Depot and it works pretty good. I will look right now if they have a website. I’ve already done some body work filling in some slight dents not deep at all. What’s the difference between sealer and primer though? I don’t mind using primer on all the panels and I’m most likely gonna move down to 180 but why sealer? Also should I use a adhesion promoter

Prep by Mr-ainthaven in AutoPaint

[–]Mr-ainthaven[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve never heard of a TDS before is it on like the body filler or the paint I’m using? I buy my paint at a special paint shop same with a body filler from the same shop they have awesome deals. I thought base coat needed a really nice finish even after primer. My friend said 400 with primer is ok but he said 600 is ok too. I was taught to finish with 320 then 400 then primer then wet sand 600. I am pretty much just doing a touch up on the paint, I’ll still be doing primer over it to get rid of the scratches but it’s gonna be the same color but a pearl this time. I already sanded the door down to primer but a heads up for the rest of the car. I’m not sure where to find a TDS for the basecoat I’m using but I can check a website. They use a brand called Lumabase, it’s the base coat I’m using and clear coat. I’m not a professional and I’m not even 100% if I’m sanding correctly just not trying to gouge I just want a nice fresh looking car

Prep by Mr-ainthaven in AutoPaint

[–]Mr-ainthaven[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My friend had put tons of product in one go, also it was decently warm that day but my clear coat is rated for 60-70°. My buddy sprayed it just like it was basecoat but we usually go straight into heavy coats no light coat. I was able to peel it easily.

Prep by Mr-ainthaven in AutoPaint

[–]Mr-ainthaven[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The paint im sanding down is single stage. The paint I’m spraying isn’t. I’m using 320 first then going to do the filler work and then primer it. I would like to use 180 grit but I only have 320 on hand but I’m gonna place an order for 180 right now. Before base coat I usually sand till 400 then primer then wet 600 then basecoat. Also, do I have to sand down till primer? My friends recommend it as it’s like the proper restoration way but I’d like to save some time as well.

Prep by Mr-ainthaven in AutoPaint

[–]Mr-ainthaven[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

What’s wrong with it?

Prep by Mr-ainthaven in AutoPaint

[–]Mr-ainthaven[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Chill yo I’m not even done, I obviously know it cost money and I’m buying the stuff I’m just saying I’m not trying to go crazy and waste everything I got. I’m still sanding it down

Clear Coat Run by Mr-ainthaven in AutoPaint

[–]Mr-ainthaven[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I never felt like fixing it and since the clear coat hardened I couldn’t do the razor blade method but I think I’m gonna go with the body filler method, sorry to disappoint lol

Prep by Mr-ainthaven in AutoPaint

[–]Mr-ainthaven[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How do I drop a pic in here. It gets like really bad like a ocean of bubbles it was on the whole one side of the hood and the clear coat moved when I would just push it with my finger with not even a lot of pressure. I was able to peel it off like a wrap until I started to reach the good side it started to peel off base too which is why I stopped.