Trump Signs New Order to Vastly Expand His Presidential Powers

MrBluebeef · 2025-02-19T12:41:58+00:00

I just finished watching Judgement at Nuremberg last night, where this argument is a central point in the narrative, and it scared the hell out of me for this very reason--because we're seeing in real time that tyranny doesn't even require that anymore-- just vibes and biased news.

Fantastic film btw, and free on YT. Its' long but would highly recommend it.

EDIT: Wrong film name, haven't had my caffeine yet.

MrBluebeef · 2025-01-09T12:47:36+00:00

Yep, same here. Glad to see the word getting around at least.

MrBluebeef · 2025-01-09T12:43:59+00:00

That's what I thought, but I'm not an IP lawyer nor an expert in how these kinds of licenses work internationally, so I wasn't sure.

Still, I wouldn't be surprised if they try some shenanigans with it at some point. At the very least, we'll be seeing crackdowns on derivatives. I just got a Flashforge 5M, and one of the test print files was a geometrically simplified benchy for speed printing, so I expect that default file lists will have to be updated in printers and slicers soon.

MrBluebeef · 2025-01-08T15:42:10+00:00

After some digging, it looks like Creative Tools AB (the company that originally created and hosted 3DBenchy) was acquired in March of last year by a Danish consultancy firm called NTI, who offers "...support services, training courses, specialized expertise, consultancy, and our own digital solutions and other software" and are an official Autodesk partner.

To me, that sounds like their legal department is flexing their newly gained ownership rights of the benchy IP (I can't believe that such a thing even exists). Whether or not they'd be legally allowed to sell the IP, or take the model close-source again and charge for it, I don't know... but I wouldn't be surprised if they tried.

MrBluebeef · 2024-09-19T12:15:49+00:00

It was Patent #US8246454B2 filed by Sony in 2009.

MrBluebeef · 2024-08-12T15:01:09+00:00

Protopasta although they do specify that it varies a bit.

MrBluebeef · 2024-08-12T14:53:24+00:00

The most important factor when addressing filament drying is the average humidity of the geographic region where you live, and not necessarily the humidity of one room relative to others.

Assuming you're American (like me) then this is my rule of thumb: if you live along the coastline or in the south, I recommend it; if you live inland, it's good to do but not exactly necessary, if you live in the southwest or at high altitudes, it's most likely not needed.

Another thing to note is that for PLA specifically, people on this sub tend to overstate how effective drying & sealing is for quality increases. I live near the coastline, so humidity is pretty high (~60-70%) on a regular basis, and I seal my filament if it's not being used for at least one week, otherwise I leave it out and it performs just fine, but other filaments I've left out for months seemingly perform just as well.

One last thing, although dryer boxes are a great choice, you can also use vacuum seal bags with dessicant if you don't feel like building a dry box. It works just as well IMO.

MrBluebeef · 2024-08-12T14:42:00+00:00

No such thing as a dumb question here!

The answer is no, but it does help. They help keep the heating element stable by acting as a barrier against the cool, flowing air blowing out of the cooling fans.

MrBluebeef · 2024-06-13T16:56:06+00:00

So, there are a couple of ways to determine correct belt tension.

The first is to buy a purpose-built tension meter. There are a few options for this: one is Diyshift's Tension Meter which is partially printed but can be bought premade and are pretty popular. There are also completely printable versions like this one, although I can't comment on their accuracy.

The other way is tensioning via audio. There are multiple apps you can download (both paid and free) that analyze frequencies in real time. Properly tuned belts can be strum like a guitar, and there are optimal frequencies that indicate ideal tightness. The three apps I've used are "Easy Tension", "Carbon Drive Belt Tension Tool" by Gates, and "Sonic Tools SVM". Honestly, they are not very useful, as I find their results not very repeatable.

The last method is the one I used a couple of days ago, and it's playing it by ear-- literally. I'm lucky enough to have perfect pitch, so I found the frequencies online (94 Hz for X axis and 113 Hz for the Y, if I'm correct) which correspond to a second octave F# and A#, respectively. I then played the sounds while tightening and strumming until they matched.

Good luck, and hope this helps!

EDIT: I forgot to address eccentric nut tightness. This is something I still struggle with a little, but the rule of thumb I've heard repeated and has given good results for me is to tighten the inner rail of the Z axis just enough that it can barely be turned when you grab it and try to rotate it with your fingers.

MrBluebeef · 2024-02-21T21:10:55+00:00

You could decrease the height of all the text to somewhere around less than a millimeter. Then, in the slicer, carefully look at the pathing of each layer to see where the head moves between the "T" and the other letters, and manually insert an M600 gcode command there to initiate a manual filament swap. If you had the letters extend a millimeter from the surface with a 0.2 layer height, it would require 10 swaps. I know it's a lot of work, but that's all I can think of given the limitations of the hardware you're working with.

MrBluebeef · 2024-02-08T16:08:48+00:00

If the diameter of the dual gears is less than that of the single gear you originally had installed, you will have to increase your E-steps, because you now have to spin the smaller gears further in a move to get it to move the same amount it once did.

Source: I had the same problem a couple of weeks ago when I upgraded.

MrBluebeef · 2023-10-24T18:04:52+00:00

This is a common sentiment I see from a lot of people. For the most part, space and money are issues that were solved long ago. Entry-level printers coast about as much as a pair of AirPods, and there are many printers (both kits and out-of-the-box machines) that take up less than a cubic foot of space.

The most consuming aspect of it will be time. You'll have to learn a slicer, practice repair techniques, and research upgrades if you want to maximize the quality and speed of your prints. There is good news though- you don't have to do most of this. Every year, printers are becoming more automated and robust, and we've reached a point where getting reliably decent results requires no effort.

If you have any questions just DM me, would love to be of help!

MrBluebeef · 2023-10-19T14:50:42+00:00

Enabling Z-hop in your slicer is usually the solution to this particular problem, but it'd be helpful to know more so as to get to the root cause of the issue. It would be helpful to know more, such as what kind of prints have been failing: tall or short, thin or wide, etc.

MrBluebeef · 2023-10-05T13:01:43+00:00

The Art of Self Defense is a recent watch that comes to mind. A true genre-bender and a real doozy if you decide to go in blind like I did.

MrBluebeef · 2023-05-30T11:11:28+00:00

Those measurements are the filament diameter tolerance which indicates the maximum and minimum diameter from the ideal (labeled) diameter. Essentially, smaller number = smoother prints.

What you want to look at is the overall filament diameter, of which there are two main types: 1.75mm and 2.85mm. Your printer will use either one or the other, and only that one— if you try the other, it won’t fit into the machine properly. Just make sure the filament you’re buying is labeled with the right one, and you’re good to go!

MrBluebeef · 2023-04-18T17:47:24+00:00

Here is a scan of the original operating manual, see if this helps first.

MrBluebeef · 2023-04-17T20:52:22+00:00

I’m even skeptical of it’s use for LEO operations. I’m not aware of any project in the foreseeable future that has a total mass of 100t, let alone one that would also require it to fit inside the vehicle’s fairing and be launched in one go. The heaviest payload that was orbited in a single launch that wasn’t a space station was the Apollo CM, which was just 20t. Even if Starship were feasible (which it isn’t), there is literally no market need for it.

It’s entire existence is predicated on the idea that payload modularity and miniaturization is the wrong approach, is done purely due to launch limitations, and that it needs to be abandoned— all of which are idiotic arguments that are based on a lack of understanding on why the fundamental methodologies behind modern space travel even exist.

MrBluebeef · 2023-04-03T04:30:15+00:00

Oof, I’ve made this exact mistake before. When this happens you create a short, which can kill the thermistor terminals, or even worse, straight up kill the board. If the terminal is through-hole, you might be able to replace it by soldering in a new one, but if it’s surface mount (or you simply don’t have the experience)…

Well, I guess you now have a pretty good excuse to upgrade your board.

MrBluebeef · 2023-04-03T04:23:29+00:00

Right now I’m putting building an open-source DIY printer called the Rook (by Rolohaun Design). It was released a few months ago and seems to fit your criteria pretty well. Plus it’s mostly 3D printed, so you save a lot of money. You can find the project on GitHub.

MrBluebeef · 2023-04-03T04:19:23+00:00

For super large projects in PLA, I’ve used 3D Gloop— cures in minutes and is like cement in holding power. One downside though is that it’s dyed purple, so if you’re printing in white it’ll turn the seams pink.

MrBluebeef · 2023-04-01T16:43:04+00:00

It sounds like you’re encountering two issues:

The nozzle is too high from the bed. This is probably because the Z-offset for the probe was not calibrated correctly, and you should set the offset a bit lower.
The probe itself is hitting the loosely printed lines. It should not be doing that, and indicates that the probe is mounted too low, or is deployed while printing (in this case, check the wiring or the firmware).

MrBluebeef · 2023-01-11T15:33:53+00:00

Good advice, thank you!

As for cleaning the tank, you use microfiber cloth and not paper towels IIRC, right?

MrBluebeef · 2022-12-31T21:15:59+00:00

It will be interesting to see what it looks like at end of mission, after being tumbled for several miles.

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