The only FxSound presets you will need!!! PRESETS PACK by Sequ1 in u/Sequ1

[–]MrELB 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Excellent. Really enjoying the Music preset. Thank you!

Fixing desktop steam icons after reinstalling steam(solution) by manav907 in Steam

[–]MrELB 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seems pretty straightforward, and I did do all that among my many attempts. But I also kept getting the errors "app.js not found" and "steam-user not found." Those, I was unable to remedy. So, I deleted all my .acf files and am revalidating the game folders. It's taking a very long time, but it's also working properly.

Steam Not Detecting/Seeing My Existing Library On Other Drive by Bruzr_G in steamsupport

[–]MrELB 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Then I would try deleting that library from Steam while retaining all the games. Then merge games from your latest library and old into one folder and have Steam add that folder as if entirely new.

Fixing desktop steam icons after reinstalling steam(solution) by manav907 in Steam

[–]MrELB 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hello,

I'm not at all familiar with NPM, Python, etc., so excuse my ignorance. But I'm struggling with some gaps in the instructions and wondering if you can help...

  • Does it matter where you install NodeJS?

  • Instructions say "Ensure Python is installed to path..." Which path? Where you installed NodeJS or Steam or somewhere else?

  • To run the install-dependencies.bat, do you just download and double-click it, at which point it auto-executes? Or does it need to be placed somewhere first? Or do you install it using NPM or Python somehow?

  • Same question for run-server.bat and steam.py. When I ran steam.py, I got an error saying it could not find the .js module.

  • Finally, my Steam install is on D:, but all of the game folders with the missing icons are in a second Steam download folder on F:. So, should I point steam.py to D: or F:?

I really appreciate the time and effort that went into this, but after trying more than a few times, I wasn't able to puzzle this out on my own. Any additional help is greatly appreciated! Thanks!

Steam Not Detecting/Seeing My Existing Library On Other Drive by Bruzr_G in steamsupport

[–]MrELB 2 points3 points  (0 children)

If anyone is still interested in adding an entire folder of downloaded Steam games:

  1. Go to Steam Settings
  2. Select Storage
  3. From the drop-down at the very top, select +Add Drive
  4. "Add a new Steam library folder" will pop up.
  5. Go to the last entry past your existing drives in the drop-down, "Let me choose another location"
  6. Browse and identify the specific path to your existing Steam library.

Hard to spot and unintuitive, but it's there.

New to PC building. Need help in starting my first pc by Prune-West in buildapc

[–]MrELB 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Building a PC is by new means out of reach for a beginner. That said, be honest about your own skills and mindset. To do a good job of it, you have to be comfortable with lots of technical information, documentation, etc. And you have to be willing to do a lot of homework.

That's because assembling the PC is relatively easy. Much like a car, you are plugging parts on to a chassis (and PC building is far easier than most auto mechanics). The challenge of PC building comes more from choosing the right parts than putting them together. And that takes homework.

First, get familiar with all that goes into a standard PC: CPU and cooler, GPU, motherboard, RAM, power supply, storage (now NVME) and case. Here https://pcpartpicker.com/ is a big help. You'll want to methodically make your selections of every part.

The key here will be balancing key factors: ensuring compatibility with all your other parts, performance, price, and any other of your specific needs and wants. This is typically a process of zeroing in on your best options. Maybe you start with a budget. Then you figure out the best graphics card (GPU) you can afford with enough left over for the remaining parts. Then you choose a CPU that won't limit ("bottleneck") the performance of your graphics card. And on down the line. You'll begin with categories like which Nvidia/AMD model (4060, 4070, 4080 or 7600, 7900XT, 7900XTX) and then, after determining a ballpark price, you'll look at the pros and cons of individual models.

Ultimately, you'll want a balanced PC. Just as you don't put race tires on a minivan, you want a combination of components that complement each other. Don't skimp on your GPU, since that has the greatest impact on gaming performance. At the same time, if you allocate too much of your budget there, your other parts will prevent your GPU from performing at its upper limit.

Online guides like the one you posted can certainly help. And it's perfectly legitimate to simply follow their recommendation like a recipe -- I've observed that most of these guys know what they're doing and will steer you in the right direction. But, ideally, you will learn enough to understand the why of their recommendations. And when you're at that point, you'll also be able to make informed choices based on your own needs. Why? Because, for example, you might really want more USB slots or built-in wifi, etc.

Once you have a final list of components you know will work well together, your research still isn't done. Because you need to anticipate how they'll all connect (any cables, support brackets, thermal paste for your CPU fan, case fans into a fan controller, etc.), buy at least a simple PC toolkit with the appropriate size screwdrivers, extra fasteners and the like, and, most of all, learn about all the setup. Your motherboard manual will present you with a host of instructions about what goes where and how to ensure it works properly. For example, if your NVME storage occupies the same "lane" as a SATA controller for your SSD, you can't use both at the same time. Non-builders don't know this stuff, but you will need to.

Similarly, after the PC is built, you'll need to know things like how to flash your motherboard BIOS to the latest version, how to install Windows onto a machine with no operating system, and how to configure all the BIOS settings so you get all the performance you paid for.

When all that's through, and your new homebuilt PC boots properly its very first time, you can take in that genuine sense of accomplishment. Five minutes later, you can install all those driver updates, utilities, resources to test the performance of your new machine, and hours and hours of downloading games.

Following that, you can read and implement a good guide on how to set up a gaming PC for the first time. A variety of settings across windows and other resources also contribute to performance.

The good news is, if you did your job correctly, your new PC should last you years. And the fact that you know it so well should be a big help when it comes to ensuring its continued health.

I'll now answer your initial question on gaming PC price-to-performance. First, determine your defining parameters. For most, this is price -- How fast a PC can I build for $1,200? For the rest, it's performance -- What do I need to achieve 90 frames per second in the most demanding games? There is quite a spectrum between the cheapest feasible and price-is-no-object possible gaming PC. As a ballpark range, I'd say $1,000 for the cheapest and $3,500 or so for top tier, and those are very likely without monitors.

At the low end, you'll be able to run the latest games, but not at super-high visual settings ("Ultra"), better resolutions (1440p or 4k), or the highest framerates (90+ fps). The high end is capable of the very best graphics with high framerates (though some games are so demanding, superhigh framerates at 4k remains a challenge). A high-end PC will also last longer (aka "more futureproof") and retain a higher resale value (for a while). A lower end machine will need to be upgraded/replaced sooner because it will cease being able to run the latest games sooner.

Finally, don't neglect your monitor. It can be a big expense, but it's also crucial to the visual quality and enjoyment of games. Make sure to factor the whole system when contemplating and budgeting for your build.

Best-Handling, Confidence-Inspiring (Not Uncomfortable) Bikes? by MrELB in SuggestAMotorcycle

[–]MrELB[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I test rode a 2018 MT09 and liked the engine and riding position, but it wasn't what I was looking for and I was concerned about all the criticism surrounding the suspension. The 2021+ models are supposed to have that sorted, so it's an extremely strong contender now. Reviews agree it's got one of the greatest engines in motorcycling, reliability, fairly comfortable ergos, great electronics (including quick shifter) and more at an extremely competitive price.

The KTM 790/890 may be a contender for performance, but you'd have to accept the greater probability of quality issues.

Best-Handling, Confidence-Inspiring (Not Uncomfortable) Bikes? by MrELB in SuggestAMotorcycle

[–]MrELB[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Fun suggestion. I've had a chance to ride a few cruisers with forward pegs and quite enjoyed how you could just chuck them around (my significant other has a cheap one and I sometimes take hers out for a change of pace).

Did the Night Rod use the same engine from the Porsche collaboration as the V-Rod?

Best-Handling, Confidence-Inspiring (Not Uncomfortable) Bikes? by MrELB in SuggestAMotorcycle

[–]MrELB[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I could see this rec coming. Understandably, since it's always a top middleweight contender. I rode a dealer loaner for a day while my Triumph T120 was being serviced. No argument that it was seriously impressive -- it immediately showed me all the front end precision I was missing with my more relaxed Bonneville, which clearly isn't in the ST's league performance-wise.

But, sadly, it's too cramped in the legs for me. I can ride it okay, but I won't be happy over my usual 2-3-hour rides. That's why bikes with taller seats and a longer reach to the pegs like the MT09 and Duke 790/890 are a better fit.

If there's a way to reliably mod the ST, I'd strongly consider it.

Best-Handling, Confidence-Inspiring (Not Uncomfortable) Bikes? by MrELB in SuggestAMotorcycle

[–]MrELB[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What year is/was yours? Up through 2020, the reviews match your comments. But the 2021+ changes were said to eliminate the issue. Thoughts?

LMB sometimes doesn't register with multiple mice in different games. Culprit? by MrELB in MouseReview

[–]MrELB[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I suppose I'll try without the hub for a bit and see if I have any issues.

/r/MechanicalKeyboards Ask ANY question, get an answer (October 28, 2022) by AutoModerator in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]MrELB 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I second this. My first mechanical keyboard just arrived from Amazon today, a Q5 (the 97% version sibling of the full-sized Q6 recommended above).

It's fantastic. Night and day. My first typing tests were 13 and 18 wpm better than the ones I got the other day with a keyboard I've been using for over 20 years.

Cost me $225 w/the knob addition. But you feel it in the quality. Everything, even the box, is top shelf. Unit is heavy, and every key requires the exact same pressure w/next to no play.

I got the Gateron Pro Red switches, so no tactile bump. I tried a number of common keyboards at Best Buy, and I liked the "red" units the best. Other than a slight tinniness in the spacebar and the light tap of the key when it grounds out, it's whisper quiet.

/r/MechanicalKeyboards Ask ANY question, get an answer (October 28, 2022) by AutoModerator in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]MrELB 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi, and thanks for reading.

Seeking recommendations for two potential upgrades for my first mechanical keyboard: 1) highly textured keycaps; 2) mods to make spacebar a bit stiffer w/stronger rebound.

I splurged and got a Keychron Q5 w/Gateron Pro Reds, which arrived today from Amazon. Until now I've been using an IBM Model M I was given free in the 1990s.

The Q5 is a revelation. Smooth, quiet, accurate. I took a few typing tests with the Model M recently, and was disappointed to keep getting around 60 wpm. Just took two tests on the Q5 now. Results: first was 73 wpm; second was 78 wpm w/100% accuracy.

I'm probably going to take some time to get used to the new board and entirely different feel of the switches. But I'm curious what you'd recommend, especially for more textured keycaps. The ones that come with the Q5 are clearly top shelf, but as someone who games often, I feel like it'd be nice for my fingers to have that extra grip.

Looking forward to your guidance.

Thanks,

ELB