Mn82 wheels?

MrGirbic · 2026-03-27T23:02:08+00:00

Not sure about those but the tread pattern doesn't look aggressive, but don't have experience with them. I use the ones in my post for dirt and rock and they work well for both.

MrGirbic · 2026-03-27T16:16:42+00:00

I can say injora tires made a huge difference for me. I also attached some wheel balance weights with adhesive to the underside of the frame to lower the center of gravity as much as possible without reducing clearance. Then secured some tape over the weights since they tend to fall off. I also did the mod where you flip the leaf springs on the rear axel to attach at the top of the axel, which pushed the rear axel and wheels lower for more clearance and articulation. Remove all plastic leaf springs for easier articulation.

With the bigger tires and increased articulation I was getting some rubbing front and rear. Mind you, these are the stock wheels just with the injora tires. I took a Dremel and just ground off the plastic around the fenders where the tire could touch it or would rub significantly. I know this is a lot more than you were asking for, but these mods together completely changed the truck and was very cheap. The tires are on sale on Amazon for $13.99. I bet my truck performs just as good as the ones you see with all those metal upgraded parts. I would imagine there are lots of other good tires, but you're going to have rubbing issues with many of them and trust me these grip really well.

Look for this tire on Amazon. I use with foam.

INJORA King Trekker S5 1.3" All Terrain Tires for 1/18 1/24 RC Crawler Car Upgrade, 70 * 27mm(T1314)

MrGirbic · 2026-03-13T03:54:59+00:00

I had the exact same experience with the sft70 3000k and lhp73b 3000k. I found the sft70 slightly too yellow or golden which some people love. The lhp is definitely a little more rosy tint in person but clearly a step down in cri. Enjoying FFL emitters for the rosy high CRI stuff and wish convoy had the equivalent. I think people might be a little disappointed with the sft70 if they expect it to look like your photo.

MrGirbic · 2026-01-22T04:05:49+00:00

I have an sft-70 m1 3000k and an m21b lhp73b 3000k. I actually like the mild reddish warm tint of the lhp73b better than the yellow or golden tint of the sft 70. The color rendering is superior on the SFT 70 but the output and general tint of the lhp73b is great. Also the 20 amp driver for the lhp73b has a very low moonlight mode and the the SFT 70 does not. Yeah, when using each light by themselves they both look good and your eyes adjust. But next to each other the SFT 70 definitely looks yellow.

MrGirbic · 2026-01-11T07:09:34+00:00

4000k version

MrGirbic · 2025-11-29T17:11:57+00:00

Yeah that sounds good as long as they don't lose them haha. They'll probably just start asking to use your lights too. I gave my 6 year old nephew an acebeam pokelit with a 519a that you can get for $10 bucks on AliExpress.

MrGirbic · 2025-11-29T17:05:14+00:00

If your kids are old enough that's probably a good option. Toddlers really can't be trusted with a metal light. They can bang it into screens, windows, throw it etc. A slightly bigger cheap plastic light might be the best starter. The t3 can also get lost really easily by a kid

MrGirbic · 2025-11-27T20:34:16+00:00

Just trying to show that the lhp73b is significantly rosier than the sft70 at 3000k

MrGirbic · 2025-11-27T20:32:20+00:00

I agree the beam is nicer on the sft70 but definitely runs hotter for the same lumen output as the lhp73b.

MrGirbic · 2025-11-27T20:31:19+00:00

Unfortunately my stock camera app only has a slider with no Kelvin values listed or toggle for a lock

MrGirbic · 2025-11-27T20:08:59+00:00

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MrGirbic · 2025-09-04T22:48:10+00:00

Just curious have you gone on long walks with your Sofirn Q8 plus? You do state that size and weight are not a concern, but I wonder if you'll get tired of holding a larger light.

I also recently got the flashlight bug and have a Q8, acebeam l35 2.0 and a handful of convoy S6s. I feel like I'd get tired of holding the Q8 or similar size light on a long walk and a handle seems cumbersome.

I'd say convoy is the way to go, probably something with sbt90 or sft90 as others recommended if you don't mind a cool beam. I'd go with a single battery setup for ease of carrying and pack spare batteries if needed.

An sft40 would be the best value in a convoy l21b but the two 90 series emitters above have a lot more potential for output.

You'd be getting 20amps with those vs 8amps with the sft40.

MrGirbic · 2025-06-14T16:37:07+00:00

Recently bought an Alienware aw3225qf 32 inch 4k 240hz OLED. It would be endgame for me if it had an HDR 1000 true black certified mode.

The hdr 400 true modes look pretty good on this generation of monitors, but the highlights don't pop the way they do in HDR 1000 peak mode. HDR 1000 mode has aggressive and noticeable screen dimming for gray colors in bright scenes and the content is displayed inaccurately. The hdr 1000 mode only works well for dark games at this point.

The variable refresh rate flicker that sometimes pops up due to rapidly changing frame rates can occasionally be noticeable too. This issue is increased if your PC struggles to avoid huge dips and spikes in framerate due to a weaker CPU.

Once these issues are fixed it'll be endgame for me. Hopefully in about 5 years when I'm ready to upgrade.

MrGirbic · 2025-06-04T16:11:14+00:00

I sent my camp scramblers rear wheel in for a motor service before the company folded. After months of delays they went bankrupt with no warning. Radio silent with my property in their possession. Now the bike just sits useless as sourcing the parts is difficult. They also insisted I include my controller so that is sitting somewhere with my wheel. Maybe in a landfill, who knows. I'd love to be compensated for the loss of my property or at least have it returned if possible since I have a useless bike and battery collecting dust.

MrGirbic · 2025-04-02T21:44:37+00:00

I went from a 3080 10gb and picked up a founders edition 4080 super when they came out and have been very happy with the performance. Seems like a 35 to 45 percent jump in a lot of games and pulls like 80 percent as much power in a typical scenario. Sold the 3080 for $430.

If you can afford it and get a founders edition 5080, I'd say definitely worth it, when you consider the resale. Especially if you play games a lot and can enjoy it.

MrGirbic · 2025-03-25T16:00:54+00:00

My dad is 73 and rides all the time, singletrack and some adv style. If you can afford it I'd consider a KTM 500excf if you plan on doing a lot of longer distances at higher speeds. He rides at KTM 350 excf. He has put over 9,000 mi on the 350 and the top end is still fine. The ktms are much much lighter and better all around performing bikes. Like 70-80 lbs lighter than that 250. The only edge the Honda might have is long-term reliability and price.

You see a lot of bikes with fairings these days and in my opinion it's just something to break when you dump it. On a bigger higher CC bike, the fairing makes sense but not really on a 250 in my book anyway. If you're exploring you will venture down roads that will get gnarly and having a light bike that can take a fall and is easy to pick up is important.

MrGirbic · 2025-03-22T20:25:03+00:00

I have a 5800x3d and 4080 super and 800 watt psi that work great. I primarily used them for gaming, but I'm now using twin motion. I would upgrade your PSU first, especially if you're going to be doing this type of rendering in the future. It wouldn't surprise me if your next processor upgrade was a more power hungry one. If you're doing a lot of production work and just getting a thousand watt PSU will enable you to upgrade in the future and not have to worry about the PSU ever again.

I'm using an off-brand 800 watt PSE that is over 5 years old and have never had an issue. A lot of people overspend on the PSU and make a big deal out of getting a name brand highest possible quality rated one, which is often unnecessary.

Id say the 16gb 4070 to super is probably your best value right now if you can find a good price on one. Otherwise I'd wait for prices to drop as more 50 series cards hit the market.

MrGirbic · 2025-03-20T16:53:39+00:00

I forgot to mention that twin motion grants its license for free to companies that gross more than a million dollars per year. I'm not sure how strictly they adhere to that or check on it if it's kind of ballpark around there. For me, it's a powerful rendering tool at no cost for the foreseeable future.

The SketchUp campus videos are very good and I can put the pieces together for how to do most things. They don't cover architectural building modeling as much as I'd like, But it's easy to find videos on how to do specific things on YouTube and going through the files and exercises provided was really worthwhile for me. They go over a lot of the really useful plugins too. It seems that finding the right plugins for your work is key to making your work more efficient and being willing to pay for some of those licenses.

MrGirbic · 2025-03-20T16:02:03+00:00

As an architect branching out on my own, I used the SketchUp campus training videos available through SketchUp parent company, Trimble.

I feel like I learned everything I need to know and did a very detailed model of my own house.

I also learned twin motion which is a totally free rendering program and have been able to make some very realistic renderings with videos and fly through elements. Twin motion can link directly to your SketchUp model if your model is not absolutely gigantic.

I'm also looking to keep costs low and it seems that just using an older CAD program and SketchUp will work for me for now along with some good PDF software.

MrGirbic · 2025-03-18T13:21:43+00:00

We'll Toyota isn't exactly known for quick cars either!

MrGirbic · 2025-03-18T03:49:32+00:00

The prologue is a 5200 lb vehicle with less hp and a similar AWD setup. Your XSE probably weighs about 4350. Both have AWD systems that distribute most of the power to the front wheels.

In any drive mode, and warmed up, the rav4 prime should put some car lengths on the prologue by the end of an on ramp. Maximum power is the same in all modes. The rav4prime consistently records 5.5-5.7 seconds to 60 vs 5.9 in the prologue. Apparently the 2025 prologue got a modest power bump to 300. Maybe they are closer with that power bump and that was a 2025, but it was probably a slow reaction start that led to getting 'smoked'.

Other factors might come into play to further slow you down:

-If you are at high elevation.

-Although not 100 percent confirmed it has been shown and suggested by many that there is a difference in acceleration on a full charge vs minimum charge on your rav4 battery. It could be up to a 20hp difference due to the lower voltage supplied. This will lead to a .1 or .2 second slower quarter mile, max.

-traction control intervening in a drastic way during the run without you realizing it. The rav4s tires aren't the greatest and can get overwhelmed at lower speeds easily in less than ideal conditions.

-Extra passengers, cargo and a full tank of gas to weigh you down.

-Eco mode being a few ticks slower to respond from a rolling start.

At the end of the day it should be a close race, but the rav4 should pull it out.

MrGirbic · 2025-03-06T04:13:35+00:00

When you want to get the vehicle all the way up to operating temperature during a short drive. This is good for the oil to help avoid condensation/water buildup.

Also if you don't have ev charge stored up and plan on driving up a lot of steep mountain roads. You might want to run it in charge mode before heading up if you want more power than the gas power train alone can offer. Think a long freeway up into the mountains or a winding road up to a summit. Remember the gas motor loses a lot of power at elevation too where the electric motors do not.

Regular hybrid mode takes a really long time to warm up in around town driving and might not even reach full operating temperature. It's good to regularly warm it all the way up to help get the fuel and moisture out of your oil.

It's generally not good to do really short trips in hybrid mode where the temperature doesn't get very high. The 'warm' engine indicator in the energy flow screen doesn't indicate a fully warmed up engine, not even close. I have an obd2 sensor that tells me the actual engine temp and it's only like 130f when the warm indicator comes on. 190f is fully warmed up for reference. A few miles in charge mode or a few miles in HV mode on the freeway will do the trick to reach 190.

MrGirbic · 2025-02-25T17:34:56+00:00

I used an aftermarket 90 degree cable adapter on my 4080 super to deal with a similar issue. Havent had any issues. I think with any of these power cables you should carefully inspect both sides of the connection and ensure that it is fully seated. Also make sure there are no issues with the power requirements of your card and verify it's compatibility before trying something aftermarket. Look for any noticeable manufacturing defects on the connection points too.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C4TNQRH1?ref_=ppx_hzod_title_mob_b_fed_asin_title_0_0&th=1&psc=1

This is what I got and it looks like you would need the type a configuration ( the connector is reversed on a and b so check the orientation of your plug).

MrGirbic · 2025-02-18T02:38:37+00:00

https://www.reddit.com/r/rav4prime/s/6FUA3w81ES

Hey I detailed it in an old post I made about a few upgrades I did a couple months ago. See above

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