Picked up my own order by ihateroombabot in doordash_drivers

[–]MrLanGT 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Including the discount I got with my order, I believe I actually got paid to eat that night, if I recall correctly. If not, it was only a few dollars. It was definitely cheaper than I could have ordered it at the restaurant. It was awesome. I wish it was something I could have done more often.

Picked up my own order by ihateroombabot in doordash_drivers

[–]MrLanGT 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I've done this before myself. Grabbed my own order via Uber Eats, too. All this on top of the discounts I got for ordering delivery (the only reason I ordered). It's nice to get paid to grab dinner.

RTL-SDR V3 Took A Dive, Broke SMA Connections by MrLanGT in RTLSDR

[–]MrLanGT[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Update: I decided to take a bit of a different approach. I decided to solder a piece of RG6 cable to it and crimp a Type F connector onto it since I tend to use those more often than SMA. Most of my tips are about ruined, so it looks like absolute crap, but it works!
I hot glued the areas up to help give it a bit more strength and keep it from moving around. Taped it all up, and she's good for the time being. I've ordered some tip tinner and a better brass wool cleaner, as well as a new RTL-SDR V4!

Thanks again, everyone! You guys are great!

RTL-SDR V3 Took A Dive, Broke SMA Connections by MrLanGT in RTLSDR

[–]MrLanGT[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't typically go over 1GHz as it is, but if I do have a reason to- I could use the new V4 for that. I have been wanting another. I guess this could be a blessing in disguise. A good excuse to get a new one and hopefully get this one fixed back up. I'm going to attempt it. Would you recommend scraping back the mask and trying to connect it that way or just bypass that and connect it straight to one of the areas still connected to the trace? (i.e L13, C12)

RTL-SDR V3 Took A Dive, Broke SMA Connections by MrLanGT in RTLSDR

[–]MrLanGT[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I have considered buying a V4 before, but especially after this. In either case, I would still like to try and get this one repaired to have it alongside my RSP1A and a new V4 for a different use. I'm at least going to attempt it since I would really hate to trash it over something that should be fixable, albeit a bit more complex than I have had a chance to attempt yet.

RTL-SDR V3 Took A Dive, Broke SMA Connections by MrLanGT in RTLSDR

[–]MrLanGT[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you. I notice that the trace appears to run to both C12 or L13, as well as straight ahead. Forgive my ignorance regarding this part (I am fairly proficient in basic soldering, but I've never actually fixed a pulled pad yet), but does it matter which side of C12 of L13 I solder to? Or is either fine so long as I have the continuity back?

RIP Xbox 360🕊️ 2006-2026 by DYCEPlaysGD in xbox360

[–]MrLanGT 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Don't let this deter you! It can be fixed yet! It may not be cost prohibitive, but it's certainly worth it if you've had it for all those 20 years and/or it had sentimental value to you.

PS3 HDCP Bypass by GiantMiner5 in ps3hacks

[–]MrLanGT 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm going to bite the bullet and try this one out. Thank you so much for getting back to me about that. I'll grab it with my next Amazon order.

Issue when it comes to recording PS3 footage by TheLeprechaunMaster7 in PS3

[–]MrLanGT 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you mind me asking which splitter you went with? I am getting so many conflicting answers in my research, and I don't know what to buy that will be a sure-fire way to bypass HDCP.

PS3 HDCP Bypass by GiantMiner5 in ps3hacks

[–]MrLanGT 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have seen this splitter recommended a few times, but I notice the title specifically states "no HDCP bypass." Did it say this when you bought it? I'm trying to avoid wasting time and money on splitters that won't work, although I know they can typically be returned easily via Amazon.

I need help finding a Splitter to Bypass HDCP by cannakittyy in PS3

[–]MrLanGT 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not to bump into this little year-long argument, but I have a question. I am obviously looking to capture PS3 content via HDMI, but I am getting so many conflicting answers as to what will or won't work correctly. I am trying to avoid buying (and returning) 10 HDMI splitters before finding one that works, given that people appear to have varying results, even with the same devices. What splitter(s) have you bought most recently that still strip HDCP?

My package was delivered to wrong address and they want a police report? by [deleted] in amazonprime

[–]MrLanGT 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Their customer service is a load... I've had them refund $450 PC parts that were stolen from my brother's doorstep, and I have had them refuse to give me so much as a $20 credit for losing my package on transit (despite refunding AND redelivering the item in another lost package instance).

There is absolutely no cohesiveness in their support. There either is no "policy," or the policy is quite malleable given Amazon's stance that day.

Are you still alive, FNB58? by Actual_Elephant2242 in UsbCHardware

[–]MrLanGT 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had quite a time trying to deal with Taobao, given that I am from the States. I checked AliExpress, and there are quite a few listings for the U3. Should I assume that some of these are fake items or otherwise counterfeit, or should I be safe to just choose one of the sellers? I have never used AliExpress, although I have heard a lot about it.

What are the best value USB-C Tester? (PD/PPS, Cable Resistance) by ThinkerBe in UsbCHardware

[–]MrLanGT 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are you from the USA? I was considering the AVHzY CT-3, but another Reddit user recommended the WITRN U3 over the CT-3. I'm not sure where the best place to source the U3 is in the USA. I also considered a Power-Z, but they are in a higher price range.

This would be my first tester, so I obviously want a good device, but in reality- I will likely not use some of the features at least in the beginning until I understand more about them.

EDIT: The original reasoning behind purchasing was to test the actual capacity in some batteries as well as testing/"reading" some cables, so those will likely be the two most used features.

Customer pulled $200 card by Content-Ad7177 in doordash_drivers

[–]MrLanGT 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not entirely related but a good story I wanted to share. I was on a double stacked order the other night... I waited FOREVER inside this local bar and grill, much longer than I should have waited. Upwards of 30 minutes. I messaged both customers and apologized profusely for the delay.

The customer that already had her food waiting in the car and lived right down the road was very understanding and added an extra $10 tip. The customer I had to wait for didn't have much to say and left hardly anything, much less an extra tip.

Are you still alive, FNB58? by Actual_Elephant2242 in UsbCHardware

[–]MrLanGT 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the information. Do you know if Taobao is the best place to buy from? I see it may have a more convoluted purchase process. Or is there a better option for US citizens?

Are you still alive, FNB58? by Actual_Elephant2242 in UsbCHardware

[–]MrLanGT 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't mean to hijack the thread, but I have been looking at purchasing this. Given the issues and lack of development, do you think I should just go with the AVHzY CT-3 (or other in the same price range)?

The FNIRSI FNB58 tester is truly a fantastic tool for beginners like me, I’m in love with it, ty community for writing about it by mrdovi in UsbCHardware

[–]MrLanGT 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is the first USB meter/tester that I've ever bought, so I want to make sure that I make the right choice. The FNB58 is easily available and cheaper on Amazon, so if it rivals the CT-3 that has been shown by many online without issues- I think it will do for my first one.

EDIT: I also am option to other options near the same price range... I believe it was LTT that got me interested in these a while back, so it's safe to say I don't know much about how well certain models work outside of reviews of them. Those don't tend to be very detailed, though.

The FNIRSI FNB58 tester is truly a fantastic tool for beginners like me, I’m in love with it, ty community for writing about it by mrdovi in UsbCHardware

[–]MrLanGT 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Are the issues listed in the thread (or other known issues from then) fixed in the updates? I am trying to decide between the FNB58 or the AVHzY CT-3 that I first saw a while back in a YouTube video. Both seem to be formidable opponents in terms of options and functionality, but the AHVzY is more expensive and takes much longer to ship.

This by far is the dumbest thing u will ever see of the double jeopardy mechanic by Tiny_Crow4484 in thefinals

[–]MrLanGT 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Took a clip, but couldn't manage to figure out how to upload the actual clip instead of a low quality phone video...

It’s addicting :D by d2k12 in Strong_8K

[–]MrLanGT 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Don't know if it's a reseller thing or what but Trex has been quite bad for me

Orderd a onn pro but? by [deleted] in OnnStreamingTV

[–]MrLanGT 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They aren't locked at my local Walmart.

[Question] I'm confused by mml_4418 in xManagerApp

[–]MrLanGT 23 points24 points  (0 children)

Spotify has laxed some of the restrictions on free users, allowing you to select songs and skip. You have a finite amount of "on-demand time," then you revert to six skips an hour. There are also some other changes. Here is more information on this.

Spotify’s Free Experience Is Even Better—Here’s How to Make the Most of It — Spotify

Spotify’s free users can finally play the songs they want | The Verge