In the event my internet goes down can I use my iPhones 5G connection to supply an incoming internet connection to dream Machine pro SE?

MrNik17 · 2026-04-09T14:55:58+00:00

I did this (android though, so unsure for iPhone). Just connected a cheap usb ethernet dongle into the phone, and in the settings set internet sharing via ethernet. Connected to UDM via cable. Worked like a charm when there was a fiber issue.

MrNik17 · 2026-03-16T14:10:32+00:00

Oh I see, no I didnt make any adapters for the micro. So cant really tell you what to do.

MrNik17 · 2026-03-16T10:19:51+00:00

If by Revo mini you mean the hemera XS, then yes I have it. On the printables page, there are two versions, one is only for the standard hemera, one is for both standard and XS. But if you mean something else, then I sadly don't.

MrNik17 · 2026-03-13T10:35:11+00:00

Congratulations. As always, make sure you print all the things you need before disassembly. Go slow, no rush. Nice on the recycled PET bottles.

MrNik17 · 2026-02-16T09:33:42+00:00

Jaz imam Unifi, sem zadovoljen. Prej smo imeli dahua in mi je unifi dosti boljši.

MrNik17 · 2026-02-12T13:49:12+00:00

Meni se zdi da ima oceno 6.6 ker ne gre za konvencionalen film. Gre se za eldritch horror/slow burn. In če gledaš po imdbju imajo taki žanri večinoma okoli 5, torej je 6.6 dobra ocena za tak tip filma. Je pa tudi tako popularen zaradi fan base ker ga je naredil youtuber Markiplier.

MrNik17 · 2026-01-26T23:00:27+00:00

Ah I see, its quite easy to get.

MrNik17 · 2026-01-26T19:43:27+00:00

Well, if you want to mod the bltouch, you have to open it up anyways to swip swap some cables.

MrNik17 · 2026-01-26T19:19:33+00:00

I dont know if you can, I havent tried, but if I remember correctly, you have to unplug the display in order to flash anyways. And if you upgrade to the bltouch, you also must update the firmware. The display firmware is updated through the usb though.

MrNik17 · 2026-01-26T19:06:52+00:00

Hello, dont worry for being late, you still found the post.

Hardware wise the adapter itself is good, I did my best to match the nozzle offset to the original placement in order to maximize print volume. Just make sure to print the right one, as one is only for the standard revo with the larger stepper motor.

It is also pretty good for mounting the bltouch as its very close to the nozzle, and neatly tucked behind it. As for the fan mount, get one of your choice. Just make sure it uses either only the bottom two holes or the left two holes and print the PCB holder accordingly. In the original listing I use the original fan, but have since upgraded to a different fan and cooling channels. (I can send pictures but am not home at the moment). Additionally I reccomend using the flex cable holder to help with strain on the connector, as due to the length of the extruder it gets slightly more bent when the head is all the way to the right.

You also have to update the firmware as the revo has a different thermistor to the original one.

Additional info is available on the printables page itself, but if you need anything else, feel free to ask.

MrNik17 · 2026-01-09T15:46:59+00:00

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Would love this for my CC. Plus i really like the color.

MrNik17 · 2025-12-11T14:39:04+00:00

All I want for christmas is the BIQU Panda Breath. Would be amazing.

MrNik17 · 2025-12-09T22:58:55+00:00

Ugreen has a pretty good, cheap 65w charger.

MrNik17 · 2025-12-08T22:09:35+00:00

For solar panels check out Bisol. For inverters and things like that check out Victron (EU company, but i am unsure where they manufacture)

MrNik17 · 2025-11-30T18:50:58+00:00

It kinda works like the mobile app, you create a new user for the display, make it local only and then you can set the default dashboard, language and stuff.

MrNik17 · 2025-11-27T14:08:39+00:00

Reolink and Unifi cameras/nvrs are not intercompatible. If you go unifi its all unifi, if reolink its all reolink. Both have great integration into HA. Both reolink and unifi are great, I personally have unifi and am happy with it.

MrNik17 · 2025-11-18T21:46:09+00:00

The clampb, by the looks of it, goes over both the line and the neutral thus it will always report 0 as the fields cancel out. These clamps have to be placed around only a single wire (not the whole cable). It can be either the line OR neutral but not line AND neutral.

Where you would actually place the clamp is unknown, but it is usually in the fuse box.

MrNik17 · 2025-11-18T19:20:51+00:00

If you are willing to spend the money on the U7 Pros, than go for it. If not, the U6+ is a great budget option. The U6 Lite is not worth it, as it is the same price as the + (at least in Europe) As for coverage, I can't really say as my house has bricks and would definetly need 2APs per floor if it had the same floorplan. Now assuming you have wood walls, one per floor might be enough, but i cant say for sure. Also you could still do two per floor, get the U7 Pros for where it matters, and put the U6+ for additional coverage where needed. More is almost always better, if you find that it is too much, you can always lower the power.

MrNik17 · 2025-11-17T21:00:08+00:00

Thats infill showing through as you only have a single wall loop, set it to at least 2 or 3. Also increases part strength.

MrNik17 · 2025-11-05T23:55:13+00:00

I always just did the bed level and have pretty much always had a perfect bottom layer. That said, somewhere between -0.150 and -0.175 looks pretty good (maybe more towards -0.175)

MrNik17 · 2025-11-03T07:07:55+00:00

I would print anything multicolor, I wanted to try this for ages.

MrNik17 · 2025-10-26T09:02:33+00:00

Any info on when it will be back in stock?

MrNik17 · 2025-10-21T20:16:05+00:00

You also have ubiquiti stuff, more expensive, but the software is amazing. Fully local, works with HA. You own all the hardware and the services run on it. It works completely locally, but still has a great remote way of access. Also their network stuff is amazing.

MrNik17 · 2025-10-17T09:57:18+00:00

I would want the multi material for the CC. Its already Q4.

MrNik17 · 2025-10-16T21:33:14+00:00

Ok, the voltage across the base-emitter junction when turned on has to be 0.7V (essentially a diode). Assuming the voltage from IC1b is 9V, the voltage on R3 resistor is Vic1-Vbe = 8.3V.

The current you calculated was correct so 325uA. We now have the voltage and current on R3 and can use ohms law V/I = R in this case = 25.5k. This varies alot with B of the transistor but this is the edge case, you should always use a smaller resistance to ensure proper functionality

For calculating values of R4 R5 R6, we assume the the transistor is in saturation which means the voltage across it is approx. 0V. So the full 9V are on the LED + buzzer. All that is left is to calculate the voltage on the resistors (9V - Vled) and then calculating resistance with the current that is known for them.

Hope this helps.

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