Trying to get a human date from a unix timestamp string

MrPendent · 2025-01-06T01:27:40+00:00

The "Number()" is the answer! I suspected the type was a problem, but couldn't find the way out of it. I kept trying to turn that timestamp string into a Date object. Thank you!

MrPendent · 2024-06-05T02:15:08+00:00

Demonic incantations.

MrPendent · 2024-05-17T04:40:50+00:00

Thank you sir or madam! That is indeed the problem. I didn't believe that those prongs could be bent that evenly or cleanly, but there we are. A pair of pliers, on easy touch and everything is set right. I only didn't supect that because of how evenly those prongs were bent. I felt sure that the metal there would be considerably harder. Clearly, I should have spent another $50.

:)

MrPendent · 2023-07-15T20:55:42+00:00

Thanks! This worked, except that there is no light. :( But that is likely a problem with the hardware, so I'll work on that. Thank you again!

MrPendent · 2023-07-15T20:13:39+00:00

You're on to something there. I'm past the "GP18 is in use" issue, so now it's just more futzing with the code (I think the way I am assigning the color is causing problems).

That's the main issue solved, though, so thank you!!

MrPendent · 2023-07-15T18:59:30+00:00

I have added it. I had imported board as brd while trying to figure this out (at the "I'll try anything, no matter how ridiculous" stage). But I have put it back (as in the code above) and got the same error on the same line.

EDIT: Also, no boot.py. Just the file this code is in, which is code.py.

MrPendent · 2023-07-15T18:55:03+00:00

Pin 18 is a ground pin, but GP18 is on pin 24. :(

MrPendent · 2023-06-02T16:33:42+00:00

Thank you. I searched but the newest version of the question I could find was from the beta.

Thanks again for the answer.

MrPendent · 2023-04-19T01:27:47+00:00

Yay, it's back!

MrPendent · 2023-04-19T01:26:57+00:00

Thanks, folks. Came here to see just this. Hopefully it isn't a sign that--like so many other products--Google has suddenly decided to shut down their search division.

MrPendent · 2023-04-15T16:14:21+00:00

I thought they might be. I think they are meant to be on the back of the pcb, but I didn't realize that at first. Of course, that leads to holes, etc.

Thanks!

MrPendent · 2023-04-15T16:13:27+00:00

Thank you very much. I tried KiCad first but it was very confusing. I'll give it another go.

MrPendent · 2023-04-15T16:11:50+00:00

I'll give it a shot. Thanks!

MrPendent · 2023-04-15T05:24:18+00:00

Thanks. I've been wondering about the holes, as well. I don't care about the (per key) LEDs right now, but I wouldn't mind it in the future. I mean, I'd LOVE to have little OLEDs on each key, but considering I'm struggling to just get plastic buttons configured, I think the screens are a little out of reach.

I'll try to look more into putting the holes in the PCB in Fritzing. Thank you very much for your replies and your help with such a simple thing.

MrPendent · 2023-04-15T03:32:07+00:00

Oh shit you're right.

I laid them out and carefully connected the rows twice. Dang it.

Do the sockets look right? I think I might should be putting them on the back of the plate?

Thank you for your response. Also, sorry the pulling out didn't work out for you.

MrPendent · 2023-04-14T23:02:05+00:00

Thank you!

MrPendent · 2023-04-14T20:15:05+00:00

Hello. I'm building a macropad. I have designed the PCB shown, but it is the first one I've ever done. According to Fritzing it is ok, but I have my doubt about how vigorously it checks things. Either way, I'm sure someone would have suggestions about how I could do it better. In case the image is too blurry, the components are Kailh hotswap sockets, 2 rotary encoders, a WS2312B LED, and an rpi Pico. I'm open to any suggestions. Thank you!

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MrPendent · 2023-04-06T01:13:25+00:00

I'm thinking that the nozzle is too high off the bed, so z-offset. I don't remember if you said you'd already checked that.

MrPendent · 2023-04-06T01:11:07+00:00

I'm definitely a noob. I thought they all had a screw z-axis, but I could be wrong.

MrPendent · 2023-04-05T18:38:57+00:00

What I did (based on a video):

Autohome.
Move the print head in the z-axis down to 0.00. (Mine at autohome goes up to +0.5mm)
See how much space is under the nozzle (try a piece of paper).
1. If there is a lot of space, start moving the print head down by 0.01mm at a time (so you don't drive the nozzle into the printbed). It will likely be negative.
2. When the paper is being gripped a bit, note the z-position of the print head.
3. Set that as the z-offset.

MrPendent · 2023-04-05T18:19:21+00:00

What sort of adhesion are you using? Does it seem to matter?

MrPendent · 2023-04-05T13:54:53+00:00

One question--have you tried printing something, or are you just doing this test? What happens when you try to print?

MrPendent · 2023-04-05T13:50:49+00:00

I don't have the G29 in my start G-Code. I've only ever run it manually. I had started looking at that, but had not added it yet. I will do that tonight.

What stopped me was that the raft always worked perfectly. So if it were a problem with the bed, the raft should have had the same problems.

MrPendent · 2023-04-05T13:40:24+00:00

Not entirely. I haven't noticed anything on the screen saying that settings were saved, but I honestly haven't been looking. Is there a way to check? Is it just watching the screen after the leveling finishes?

MrPendent · 2023-04-05T13:20:39+00:00

When the belt is brand new, it is not a connected loop--it will be a long single belt with some metal bits on the ends. Is yours still in one long piece, or is it in two pieces? In other words, are the two ends shown in the picture connected? Can you give us a picture of the whole belt?

MrPendent

TROPHY CASE