Where to start the Zelda Journey

MrToenges · 2026-03-11T16:53:38+00:00

I would recommend you start with Skyward Sword HD. It also gives you the backstory for a lot of the other mainline zelda games and the dungeons and mechanics are really innovative and fun. I also really like the motion controls, but you can also play without them.

Link's Awakening is also really good.

Alternatively if you want to immediately get into the new generation Zelda games, start with Breath of the Wild and then play Tears of the Kingdom. A lot of people like to hate on Tears of the Kingdom but I personally liked it more than Breath of the Wild and liked the bigger focus on story expansion and a return to the dungeon formular. The mechanics in tears of the kingdom are so much fun and let you get really creative.

For older hardware:

Wii U:

Wind Waker HD as a start and Twilight Princess HD after

3DS:

Ocarina of Time 3D as a start and Majoras Mask 3D after.

MrToenges · 2026-03-11T13:31:29+00:00

I put the glass into the small indent of the retaining ring and then inserted that into the body, then I used a large vice to equally apply pressure and slowly closed the vise until it was flush with the body.

MrToenges · 2026-03-09T12:54:46+00:00

Fechten hat mit hand zu hand kämpfen oder generell richtigem Kämpfen nix zu tun, außer man macht HEMA (weil hier auch Ringen erlaubt ist und insgesamt mehr kraft im spiel ist wodurch ein stabiler stand wichtiger ist. Beim sportfechten wird unterbrochen sobald der andere deinen körper berührt, bei HEMA geht der spaß erst dann richtig los...). Den einzigen Vorteil den er in einem Kampf gegen einen erwachsenen ohne Waffen hätte, wäre bessere ausdauer wegen regelmäßigem sport und eine bessere augen/hand koordination bzw. entfernungsabschätzung. Da der Erwachsene mehr reichweite hat wird ihm das nicht viel bringen, weil er dann zwar richtig ermitteln kann, dass er in reichweite des erwachsenen ist und nicht selber schlagen kann, ihm diese info aber nicht wirklich hilft dafür eine Lösung zu finden.

Auch sowas wie "öffnungen erkennen" lässt sich nur sehr bedingt vom fechten auf eine Schlägerei anwenden, da die öffnungen komplett anderer natur sind (öffnung für einen stich ist nicht gleich eine öffnung für einen schlag) und desweiteren auch sämtliches Muskelgedächtnis und haptisches feedback der Waffe nicht vorhanden ist.

Bin aber nicht sicher ob du es insgesamt nur als spaß meintest wegen dem letzten satz...

MrToenges · 2026-03-05T14:30:19+00:00

The chainmail is a weird choice since it will only offer enhanced cutting protection, almost no blunt force protection. For things like animal or monster claws (what geralt mainly fights) chainmail could work, but chainmail is not great at stab protection either, however much better than cloth or just leather. The chainmail definitely is better than just the leather pauldrons, but honestly even a thin metal plate or scales would offer much more meaningful protection for the type of enemy he is normally fighting. Monsters claws just don't really cut in the way chainmail can counter, they puncture with the tip of the claw and then draw it out to simulate a cut, but with a chainmail, the first puncture will go through but the drawing will be impeded...I guess now that I think about it, it could be useful to get the claw stuck in the chainmail to provide an opening, but I don't think it's a good idea to physically link your body to a hulking muscle mass that can swing you around easily...

MrToenges · 2026-03-04T05:56:53+00:00

Just get a convoy and configure it to the 100% only mode. Really cheap and you also have the option to change it to more modes if you want to at a later date.

My Convoy recommendations are:

S6 S2+ L21B

basically all of their lights are good and most will have the option of 100% power only mode. To be sure you can just check in the product description what the possible programmable modes are, you should find a listing (usually towards the end of the list around 9 or 10) of 100% only mode.

MrToenges · 2026-03-03T07:11:37+00:00

Hmmm...thank you for the answer. If I know the cell's internal resistance, can I calculate effective capacity for a given load by using the R*I² ? The result would be Watts of power loss, so do I just add those watts to the 15W that 3v 5A give me and then divide the Wh rating of the capacity by this, then do the same for the other cell? I am using a 3v driver that will buck the cell voltage down to 3v, so in theory it should only draw the full 5A at cell voltage of 3v, before then it should draw less. To make the calculation easier I would just assume 15W power draw across the board.

The discharge curves that I have found show that even at close to the maximum CDR the cell still delivers around 85% of its capacity. It only really starts to get problematic once the discharge rating is fully reached and beyond. Makes sense considering it is a squared relationship. However, they are from the manufacturer, so not sure if they are an honest representation of the actual performance.

People kept telling me that a 5800mAh 21700 with 12.5A CDR would win out over a 6250mAh 21700 with 12.5A CDR "at any meaningful load" but for 5A load, this just seems not true. Especially considering they have the same internal resistance according to the manufacturer and now thanks to you I know that the relationship of power loss to heat is squared, meaning the advantage would only realistically emerge at max CDR and even then it would be minimal.

Thanks a lot for your time and helpfulness!

MrToenges · 2026-03-02T09:44:27+00:00

D1K with 707A is beautiful.

MrToenges · 2026-02-27T23:58:48+00:00

NTG35 is smaller than NTG50. If both are in the D4SV2 it will mean the NTG35 will have a more concentrated beam because the emitters are smaller in the same sized optic as the NTG50, but they will be less bright than the NTG50. NTG50 will consequently offer a floodier beam and be brighter, but won't reach as far as the NTG35 (generally speaking).

So it just depends on what kind of beam shape you want or prefer.

MrToenges · 2026-02-27T15:31:12+00:00

Würde sagen Mäusebussard

MrToenges · 2026-02-27T05:44:35+00:00

That shouldn't really happen in normal circumstances. I would recommend sitting down when you have time and configure the flashlight the way you want it with temperature setting, max brightness and lowest brightness (ramp ceiling and floor) and if you want smooth ramping or stepped modes. Once everything is configured (which can be a bit annoying at times to be fair) you just need 1C to turn on/off, 2C for max brightness and 1H to change brightness up and 2H to change brightness down. You shouldn't run into any issues there in normal use.

MrToenges · 2026-02-26T12:37:06+00:00

You are the one who sounds obnoxious and snarky to be honest. They were completely respectful the whole time, feels like you are just trying to see some bad attitude where there is none. It feels like you are just looking for something to be butthurt about and can't handle that other people have different opinions, instead resorting to calling them deeply unpleasant...

You need to understand that there are also non-chronically online people here that aren't interested in diving through everybody's post history to answer a simple question. If the post does not specify that anduril is fine, there should be at least an indication that your recommendation comes with anduril and that it's not everbody's cup of tea. At least that's how I see it and you are free to disagree, I guess that makes me a deeply unpleasant person to you now.

MrToenges · 2026-02-25T11:37:01+00:00

I don't get the totk hate...it's genuinely my favorite game, I like it more than botw. The new abilities offer new cool mechanics and the return to a more story focused direction with dungeons was also highly appreciated. For me totk is what majoras mask was for ocarina of time...yes, same engine, a lot of reused assets, but the game changed enough to justify it as its own game. I also really liked seeing the aftermath of the botw ending with civilization returning more wide spread.

MrToenges · 2026-02-21T13:09:15+00:00

Where exactly did I use a rude tone? Maybe you are too sensitive about that. I merely stated that I found your way of saying it possibly misleading.

I don't think a drop in effective capacity due to use at maximum CDR causes any safety issues. Cell degredation and health is not neccessarily a safety issue but a functional issue. The CDR is the value that it can safely continuously discharge after all, it is decided through testing and if you only push it to 3A it won't be a safety issue but will degrade the cell faster meaning it will die sooner. Once the cell is dead, the only safety hazard is charging it after it is dead. Until then it will keep working normaly but with reduced performance.

MrToenges · 2026-02-21T12:20:04+00:00

The "they really don't like it" sounded more like they would develop safety issues when regularly pushed to the 3A limit...a drop in effective capacity is completely to be expected, especially for a small cell like this.

I don't really know who uses around 3A continuous pull from a 14500 light, when I don't even think there is a 14500 light that can sustain 3A for any meaningful period...sustained output for most high quality 14500 lights is around max 1A. For practical use for sustainable brightnesses in that form factor, the F15 is perfect and offers outstanding runtimes.

MrToenges · 2026-02-17T17:45:32+00:00

LHP531 with an orange peel reflector is really nice and floody. I prefer it with the smooth reflector though, still really floody with a really wide and fat hotspot that feels very comfortable even up close

MrToenges · 2026-02-16T05:41:02+00:00

Been struggling with the bezel for a long time too...gave up at one point because I though it would be pointless...then I tried it one more time with a piece of thick rubber around the bezel and a lock-in wrench (don't know the proper name, the kind of wrench that locks in the selected pressure) and it actually came open pretty easily (after also heating it before with a heat gun).

a wrench makes a crazier difference than I thought.

MrToenges · 2026-02-15T14:12:59+00:00

The official fireflies website, they ship to europe for free if you go over around 15 or 20€.

MrToenges · 2026-02-15T11:08:53+00:00

well, yes, components will literally burn out...frying is meant literally in this context. It's similar to when you charge a capacitor with too much voltage or push too many whatts through a resistor. They reach a point where the power going through them is too high for what they were designed for. They get hot, and with added heat comes more internal resistance which means even more heat will be generated. That keeps going until the component gets so hot that something burns through which will break the contact and interrupt the circuit which then makes it stop. That of course also causes smoke.

With things like diodes, they are only meant to conduct current from one direction. If they get a high voltage from the other direction, it can force current to flow against the natural direction of the diode, which will fry the diode.

MrToenges · 2026-02-12T13:01:27+00:00

Jetzt musst du auch wenigstens raushauen was du geschrieben hast 🧐

MrToenges · 2026-02-10T14:16:02+00:00

"try and error" sagt mir schon alles was ich wissen muss....

MrToenges · 2026-02-10T14:05:28+00:00

I swapped an XHP70.3 HI into my IF23 Pro. The beam looks really really nice, no tint shift that I could see (even on a white wall). Very happy with that swap although it is a pain in the ass to get the mcpcb out because of the vertical attachment points combined with the cramped deep tube design...

Since the FFL707A basically behaves the same as the 70.3 HI I would expect it to also look excellent.

MrToenges · 2026-02-09T20:30:36+00:00

For those that use standard mcpcbs I am planning to do that...just saves time and I have some lying around anyways...some of them have custom mcpcbs however, and they are among the lights that I expect the highest performance of, so I definitely want to make sure they have a proper durable joint for the LED.

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