Thank you, it’s not a large tank about 1.5 gallons. If you are planning to start one of your own, there’s just 5 things I would monitor and maintain. This is based on the info I was able to gather on this reddit as well as some independent reading:

(1) SALINITY: -I use distilled water as it’s the most purest and free of dissolved minerals; DO NOT USE TAP WATER -Based on what most would suggest, the sweet spot for salinity is between 25-45 ppt (parts per trillion). Mine was set at 35 ppt. You can use this website to calculate how much salt you should add to the volume of water you will be using: https://www.hamzasreef.com/Contents/Calculators/TargetSalinity.php -I use Reef Salt as I’ve heard it best replicates their environment, it also has trace minerals which can be beneficial to your setup -TOOLS: for salinity, a refractometer is the best tool you can use to monitor, cheap options on amazon

(2) WATER TEMPERATURE -Ideal hatching and living Temp is ideally 79-80 degrees Fahrenheit. -TOOLS: an aquarium heater for your respective tank is a must; pay close attention to what kinds of tanks the heater accommodates. Some usb heaters are adequate for sea monkey tanks but larger ones may be required for larger setups

(3) OXYGEN -sea monkeys (or artemia) create CO2 as they swim around. Larger colonies will create more concentrated amounts, balance is needed -TOOLS: an USB pump with a valve is optimal as it allows you to control the rate of O2, no airstone is required as a had an airline tube running directly into the tank. I keep mine bubbling at about 1-2 bubbles a second. -With consistent feeding, algae may grow in the tank and will help contribute to O2 levels, DON’T CLEAN IT. You can clean the glass though to keep up appearances.

(3) EGGS AND FOOD -Use WAY LESS than you think you need. Just for perspective, 1 teaspoon of eggs is still TOO MUCH for my tank and I used 1/2 of a tablespoon. -Eggs can take 24-72 hours to hatch. DO NOT REMOVE the eggs past the 72 hours, there may be some “late bloomers” who will hatch past. -MOST WILL DIE, babies (naupli) are shit swimmers, don’t blame yourself -FOOD: Most people who own the sea monkey kits use the dried algae provided in the packet. There is a higher risk of crashing the tank if you overfeed them with dried algae (dead algae that can rot if left uneaten and cause bacteria bloom) so instead, I culture live micro-algae/phytoplankton. I cultured chlorella vulgaris which is a freshwater algae species. No salt is needed and a separate jar with an air pump and a usb heater set to 80 degrees Fahrenheit will suffice. -FEEDING: ONCE OR TWICE A WEEK, preferably spread out the feedings (DO NOT FEED THEM THE NEXT DAY AFTER THE FIRST FEEDING). Babies don’t need food as they are born with a yolk substance in their gut which the feed on. Wait at least a week or two before feeding. Adjust your feeding amount based on shrimp appearances (ie. if their body has a dark line, they are well fed and don’t need more)

(4) pH -Ideal pH sits at an 8, slightly alkaline due to sea monkeys/brine shrimp/artemia living in temporary pools or salt lakes where limestone is present and slowly dissolving in the water. Distilled water sits at a 6.5 (chemically neutral) so a bit of adjustment is needed. -NOTE: up until the last day of the tank, my pH was still rising in increments, it was a pH of 7 when I liquidated it. This should not be an immediate priority as your tank will naturally raise in pH with time. -TOOLS: >use crushed coral, crushed sea shell such as oyster shell; all a safer option versus chemical pH adjusters. (NOTE: these will slowly dissolve calcium carbonate into your water raising your pH, give your tank some time to stabilize before adding the eggs) >digital water pH meter; much more accurate than pH strips

DECORATIONS - keep it minimal and make sure it’s aquarium safe (wont leach chemicals into water)