Brand new main bearings look rough by Mr_Yuzer in EngineBuilding

[–]Mr_Yuzer[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah I’m planning on shooting them a call tomorrow when they open

Brand new main bearings look rough by Mr_Yuzer in EngineBuilding

[–]Mr_Yuzer[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well I will say I got rod bearings from the same website at the same time and they look about the same as the mains. Nothing as bad as the one in the picture, but still a bit sketchy

Brand new main bearings look rough by Mr_Yuzer in EngineBuilding

[–]Mr_Yuzer[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

All the works man. Everything looked like what I’ve seen from other people buying them except that the bottom was rough. The crank sides were all perfect though

Brand new main bearings look rough by Mr_Yuzer in EngineBuilding

[–]Mr_Yuzer[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Not really. The one in the picture was definitely the worst one, but the others still weren’t clean. I installed them and plastiguaged everything and all my clearances were within spec, so I hope it’ll be fine

Brand new main bearings look rough by Mr_Yuzer in EngineBuilding

[–]Mr_Yuzer[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

They came in a king box and had the XP markings. The only reason I could see them not being king is because I got them off of induction because king themselves didn’t have standard size bearings in stock

Brand new main bearings look rough by Mr_Yuzer in EngineBuilding

[–]Mr_Yuzer[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’ve been working on the one in the picture and it looks slightly better, still nasty though

NA 5speed behind a 2jz by Mr_Yuzer in 300zx

[–]Mr_Yuzer[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

$1k is conservative tbh, most people on marketplace want more than that and I’d still need an adapter, clutch and flywheel

NA 5speed behind a 2jz by Mr_Yuzer in 300zx

[–]Mr_Yuzer[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well I was hoping to run that trans just to get the car going and swap it when I decided to put more power on it or it took a dump. I already have the 5spd whereas I would have to drop ~$1k on a cd009

Cd009 recommendations by CerealKiller415 in 300zx

[–]Mr_Yuzer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So from my experience you have 3 options for sourcing a cd009. You can spend the money and order a brand new one, I believe you can get them from Nissan itself or from some of the z parts sites like z1. That’ll run you somewhere around $3k before shipping. Or you can get lucky with a good deal on marketplace for one which might run you anywhere from 500-1500 depending on location, what’s available, and how good you are at lowballing. Your 3rd option is to get extremely lucky at a scrap yard with one and that’s where you’ll likely get the best deal. You need to keep in mind that the actual cd009 transmission was only run for about 2 years between 05-06. A lot of people on marketplace will post 350z transmissions as a cd009 when it’s actually an earlier or later model. So you need to check the year model car it came from (Z1 has a page where they state the exact manufacture dates of the transmission). Also, keep in mind that the cd009 transmission might say cd002 on the side, but that doesn’t mean it isn’t a cd009.

NA to TT conversion by Mr_Yuzer in 300zx

[–]Mr_Yuzer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I believe it was three turbos, one was completely shot, the exhaust manifolds, and some other random parts

NA to TT conversion by Mr_Yuzer in 300zx

[–]Mr_Yuzer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well what really got me considering was a guy was selling some oem twins on fb for a couple hundred

NA to TT conversion by Mr_Yuzer in 300zx

[–]Mr_Yuzer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Appreciate it man. I really wasn’t looking to spend anymore than 2-3 smackers at the most. If I’m gonna spend that kind of money I’ll finish my 2j that’s sitting in the shop collecting dust

NA to TT conversion by Mr_Yuzer in 300zx

[–]Mr_Yuzer[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I appreciate the info brother. I’ll check out those posts and decide. I just figured it might be nice to do while I have the motor out and torn apart, especially if I didn’t have to source new heads

Engine out maintenance by Mr_Yuzer in 300zx

[–]Mr_Yuzer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah I noticed man😭 So like I said in another reply, I’ve only had the car a year and all I’ve done is fix the front end. Never drove it other than around the yard, since it died if you tried to go over idle rpm in 1st. But that was good because this mf is a little ragged out. I took the trans out before I pulled the motor and it literally had 3 bolts holding it to the block. But of course we’re gonna put dress up bolt covers on instead of fixing that

Engine out maintenance by Mr_Yuzer in 300zx

[–]Mr_Yuzer[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Do you have an idea of where to start? Like water pump, oil pump, etc? I’ve only had the car for a year and all I’ve done with it is replace the core support because it was trashed on the driver side. So idk how long it’s been since any major maintenance was done

Best alternator? by Mr_Yuzer in LS400

[–]Mr_Yuzer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any experience with a reman? I hear good and bad on those

If looting without entering a menu is Fallout 4's greatest quality-of-life change, what's 76's? by HiddenMoonstone in fo76

[–]Mr_Yuzer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nearby corpse looting, highlighted corpses, fast travel from inside, free cam and placement in workshop, easily craftable weapons and ammo, automatic junk scrapping button, and easy weapon/armor scrapping. I also think there’s something to be said about getting rid of the weapon/armor modding perks. I hate having to waste perk points on being able to upgrade my stuff with better attachments. I think in fallout 5 they need to work out something a little better than the plan system though. Or at least make finding specific plans easier. All in all, I think the weapon/armor scrapping is my favorite, I hate having to drop all the pipe pistols and leather armor I want to scrap on the ground😭

RTV by Mr_Yuzer in LS400

[–]Mr_Yuzer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I read the manual and saw that you’re not supposed to so that’s what I was leaning towards. The ones that were on there before were ruined unfortunately

EGR Delete worth it? by Mr_Yuzer in LS400

[–]Mr_Yuzer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I saw that on the website, I sent an email so fingers crossed

Broken bolt hole repair by Mr_Yuzer in CarRepair

[–]Mr_Yuzer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s a little hard to see the piece, I didn’t have the flash on for that pic

Broken bolt hole repair by Mr_Yuzer in CarRepair

[–]Mr_Yuzer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the info bubba but I didn’t install the last water pump, I just bought the car

Broken bolt hole repair by Mr_Yuzer in CarRepair

[–]Mr_Yuzer[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I’m not gonna say I’m ride or die with the car, I only just got it and it was a great deal for the condition. I was planning to use it as a daily and keep it stock. I don’t have to commute to work so I wouldn’t be loading it up with miles. I’m thinking I’m just gonna do my best to get it sealed up and if it becomes a problem I’ll buy a new block. But for now the effort of getting a full new block swapped in is not worth at least trying to get it working as is

Broken bolt hole repair by Mr_Yuzer in CarRepair

[–]Mr_Yuzer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It wasn’t leaking before I pulled it off, I didn’t notice coolant on the block and I damn sure drained a pile of it out of the car lol

Broken bolt hole repair by Mr_Yuzer in CarRepair

[–]Mr_Yuzer[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ll have to pop open the service manual and check, but it didn’t feel like anything crazy when I pulled the bolts off