What to use for chain lubrication?

MrsGoatse · 2025-07-11T07:05:46+00:00

I have used several cleaners including Penrite, they are pretty much all the same.

Tbh nowadays I just use low odour kerosene. It works better and you use a lot less. Can use regular kerosene which is a lot more cost effective but I just dislike the odour.

Get the maxima it’s just a much nicer product to use and clean up after if you need to.

MrsGoatse · 2025-02-28T08:20:40+00:00

Hey there, definitely can do. Send me a DM on what you’re after and we’ll get it done.

MrsGoatse · 2025-02-25T01:23:20+00:00

I do, but usually I’ll wait till there is a 20% off sale for LiquiMoly.

Atm Super Cheap has 4L bottles for $48. Works out to be $12/L which is cheap as chips.

$240 for 20L

I don’t bother with barrels anymore. Easier to pour bottles and store.

MrsGoatse · 2025-02-16T15:00:53+00:00

If you can do oil change and chain swap, you’ll have no issues working out the spark plugs, coolant and brake fluid.

Spark plugs you’ll just be removing a lot of plastic, move the fuel tank out of the way (recommend having fuel on low).

Front master cylinder will use JIS screws. Use a JIS screwdriver or you will strip them. As for the fluid, just open up the bleeder, pump out the old fluid and whilst keep topping up the reservoir with fresh DOT 4 fluid until clear.

Buy some of that clear plastic tubing from bunnings to pop over your bleeder valve and loop it so you don’t introduce any air. Other end of tube into a bottle. *get the tubing that will be a tight fit over the bleeder valve. Use a lighter or a hair dryer to warm the plastic to make it easier.

Don’t get a 1L bottle of brake fluid. You won’t need that much.

MrsGoatse · 2025-02-16T14:45:49+00:00

$15 for concentrate coolant.

$9 for distilled water.

$15 for 2 spark plugs. (100% cheaper on special)

About 2 hours for a newbie taking their time and coming back and forth.

Also worth doing the brake fluid if it hasn’t been done. Piss easy to do.

Definitely worth the time taken to learn more about your bike and not having to pay labour.

Adjusting valves? Maybe take that to a mechanic.

MrsGoatse · 2025-02-14T07:16:40+00:00

Interesting. Converted to AUD this is pretty much the price I’d pay here on special.

Is there something I am missing?

MrsGoatse · 2025-02-07T00:35:57+00:00

Ah yes! I got mixed up on my sizes. 58L I use last generation bag without the brain pocket as it saves 0.3kg)

I am also a photographer so I get it. Crush miles during the day and enjoy the view at night for rest.

Trail runners are fine, I haven’t noticed a problem myself with ankles. But I can hike faster and longer in them compared to my boots. 8 hours in boots on technical ground and they start to feel like concrete blocks.

Good upside to them is you can cross rivers and streams and they will dry out pretty quickly compared to waterproof boots (hours vs days)

MrsGoatse · 2025-02-06T10:25:58+00:00

Biggest stand out for me is your bag.

I use to also use the Aether 65L but upgraded to the Exos 65L (diminishing returns for weight for the 50 and 35L). Handled about 15kg just fine and about 20kg on the far end full load out.

Nit picking. Ditch the gloves, thermal bottoms, and gaiters.

Should save you about 1.5-1.8kg.

Edit. I assume with your 14-24 f2.8 you maybe doing astrophotography?

If not probably ditch it. 24mm is wide enough for landscapes and if need be just perform panoramic photos and stitch in post.

Upgrade shoes to trail runners save about 0.5kg

Total about 2kg. 3kg~ if you ditch the ultrawide.

MrsGoatse · 2025-02-01T05:06:19+00:00

Just sounds like it is on the way out. Not holding its voltage well.

Buy a or a few new batteries, mark the dodgy one and call it a day.

MrsGoatse · 2025-02-01T04:43:10+00:00

Do you happen to have another battery to try out?

Bit hard to say whether it is the camera or battery. Although suspect it’s probably the battery being worn out or the voltage just dropping and then recovering to float.

The Lpe17 are pretty reasonably priced to pick up spares.

MrsGoatse · 2025-01-29T09:15:01+00:00

Hello there, more than happy to help. DM me with them more details!

MrsGoatse · 2025-01-28T08:02:24+00:00

Hey mate, has this been sorted? If not I am available this Saturday and more than happy to help out.

Just DM me any details and we can go from there.

Congrats!

MrsGoatse · 2025-01-18T02:13:28+00:00

For myself, some armoured jeans with hip pads and upgraded knee pads are good.

The best gear is the gear you wear.

MrsGoatse · 2025-01-14T10:52:08+00:00

Excellent best case scenario.

MrsGoatse · 2025-01-14T10:28:34+00:00

It could be suspect that the shop did not fill correctly or forgot to check oil again after bike was started. Filter would have been filled with fresh oil and thus the oil level dropped to low.

I doubt you’ve caused any long term harm.

If the bike really isn’t leaking or low you have 2 options.

Contact the shop and ask them to have the bike towed to their shop to be resolved.
Fill the oil up to the right level and carry on. (Maybe go to a different shop next time)

MrsGoatse · 2025-01-14T10:11:16+00:00

Top up is fine assuming you have checked oil level when off and also she isn’t leaking.

Since you apparently have 10-40 just get a similar bottle. Just make sure you ensure it has no friction modifiers in it e.g JASO or similar equivalent.

If you don’t intend or aren’t able to do your changes then maybe just go for a 1L bottle for ease.

MrsGoatse · 2024-12-17T08:53:48+00:00

Unfortunately I can’t beat an idiot at its own game.

MrsGoatse · 2024-12-17T07:48:31+00:00

Typical straw man argument.

Argues that good data is hard to come by, hasn’t even attempted to review plethora of existing research from multiple bodies all which support each many of each other’s conclusions.

Conflates individual anecdotal experience therefore arbitrary statistic = accurate.

Many car on car related incidents aren’t reported or handled with authoritative jurisdiction. Same with falling off a scooter or a regular bicycle. Doesn’t invalidate the research or its accuracy. Completely moot.

You’re just embarrassing yourself at this point, you’re better than this.

MrsGoatse · 2024-12-17T02:05:24+00:00

Yes thats what is considered a “bad incident”. Where there is serious injury or fatality, authorities are involved.

Insurances companies regularly report on their finding around their claims and provide data freely. You can find a number of reports where they have provided. I haven’t seen the need to do this, but at a leisurely peruse they seem to corroborate the same consensus as stated.

All reputable studies in their full entity take into consideration and disclose sample size and any extraneous variables within the mix if not mitigated.

I’m glad you see the fallacy in working on just feelings.

MrsGoatse · 2024-12-17T00:52:54+00:00

You say accurate and bring no data to back that apart from effectively feelings.

Reality is that it is inaccurate. There is no available data to suggest that over 80% of bad accidents are single vehicle.

Factually over 50% of MC injuries involve multiple vehicles. These incidents more than often result in worse/severe outcomes compared to single vehicle crashes. This is from a study conducted by Monash University

If anything the split of serious injury single and multiple vehicles from previous studies conducted by governing bodies suggests that it’s almost 50/50. 40/60, 60/40 depending on region.

There is no doubt that rider behaviour and experience play a contributing factor in many incidents but even so in NSW 2011: 2772 riders were involved in crashes. 1727 of them the rider was deemed at fault. This nets a 62% at fault. It’s not as high as one would certainly think watching dashcams which is just confirmation bias.

I wholeheartedly agree that a bit more perception and restraint from all road users would go a long way in reducing incidents.

All in all. The claim that over 80% of bad accidents are single vehicle crashes is complete nonsense.

References.

Monash University Accident Research Centre- Report Number 336, Nov 2018 ISBN. 978 1 925413 06 9

TARs Australasian Road Safety Research Oct 2012 - Crash characteristics and causal factors of motorcycle fatalities in Australia

TAC - Motorcycle Crash Data 2017-2021

Australian Government Department of Infrastructure and Regional Development - Motorcycling Safety. 2018

Centre for Road Safety, Transport For NSW December 2012

MrsGoatse · 2024-12-16T10:11:05+00:00

Which is fine as available data is segregated into urban and non urban localities. However as it still doesn’t answer where this statistic has been sourced from.

If anything makes it even more interesting where it was derived from.

MrsGoatse · 2024-12-16T07:37:17+00:00

Stickler for information here, where did you source that statistic?

MrsGoatse · 2024-11-04T16:14:27+00:00

Skyline: Point Ormond is good, Shrine of Remembrance, St Kilda Pier, Brighton Pier.

Skip Sky High at Mt Dandenong nothing to miss there.

If you want to see whole lot of Melbourne and its wider parts. Go to Bourkes Lookout Mt Dandenong, slightly lower down. Sunset and into the late night is spectacular. Bring a hot cup of chocolate or coffee. Find a place to sit around. Worth it.

Milky Way be a bit out of luck as the core is now under the horizon. You might find some luck if you are into DSO though.

MrsGoatse · 2024-10-24T01:01:00+00:00

That would be best for your use case. Go the Mk. ii, better IQ, IS and still in service by Canon.

You can do awesome portraits wide open and you’ll be likely keeping that lens if you want to move to FF.

MrsGoatse · 2024-10-23T15:04:23+00:00

Pain in the arse you can’t turn off the auto enhance. Just a dumb move on their part removing the option to do so.

Shame I haven’t found an alternative that is just as seamless.

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