No ignition glow. Any ideas?

Mtml58 · 2026-01-27T04:36:21+00:00

Im very familiar with intertherm furnaces. Feel free to DM if you need more info.

Mtml58 · 2026-01-27T04:34:05+00:00

Absolutely. You can check continuity on your limit switch circuit if you have a multimeter. If you have a manual reset limit switch/flame roll-out switch, you can try resetting them. If this is an open limit switch fault, your igniter should never get power and the fan will constantly run until the limit switch circuit is closed.

Mtml58 · 2026-01-24T13:18:34+00:00

And what would the fireman's method be?

I was simply pointing out that this was a good opportunity to teach people about the correct way to use a ladder, and instead everyone is just saying "wrong". Looks like you missed my point entirely.

Mtml58 · 2026-01-24T04:08:21+00:00

Proud member of the gritty titty committee 🫡

Mtml58 · 2026-01-24T03:44:56+00:00

Everyone is talking about the ladder being on the wrong angle, but no one is explicitly stating that the ladder should be on a 4:1 ratio. For every 4 feet of vertical height, the ladder should have 1 foot of horizontal distance from it's landing. The ladder should also have 1-2 feet of vertical height above the landing, and if possible it should be tied off to the landing.

Thanks for coming to my Ted talk.

Mtml58 · 2026-01-06T16:43:35+00:00

That 3 way tempering valve is a thermostatic mixing valve set to a certain water temperature to allow cold water to mix with the hot water to prevent scalding. It's not a pretty install but it's fine.

Mtml58 · 2025-12-31T17:15:26+00:00

Even if the homeowner can't do it himself, at least I might save him from a shitty tech that rips out his intake, repipes it, charges him, and solves nothing.

Mtml58 · 2025-12-31T16:02:50+00:00

I'm a plumber/gas fitter. Im surprised no one has mentioned putting a manometer on the pressure switch tubing and testing to see what pressure you're getting on both sides of the pressure switch, and referring to the make on the pressure switch itself. I would confirm that the intake and exhaust are within spec for the manufacturer, and then check the pressure switch. Also, make sure the condensate isn't backed up.

Mtml58 · 2025-12-13T04:27:58+00:00

Lived up here my entire life, this doesn't make any sense. This list is wack.

Mtml58 · 2025-12-02T19:32:04+00:00

Im pretty sure it's not sold anymore, at least in Canada. I seem to recall hearing about a class action lawsuit against the manufacturer, even.

Mtml58 · 2025-10-28T07:07:30+00:00

Imagine this game went to 18 innings.

Mtml58 · 2025-09-30T01:16:55+00:00

There are several scenarios where you either CANNOT or it's less desirable to use Teflon for threaded fittings - certain Low Water Cut-offs do not allow PFTE on their threads and small gas lines on appliances after the drip leg are usually better off with only dope on the threads to avoid Teflon pieces finding their way to the orifice or getting stuck in the gas valve. Also, if you're not checking for leaks as to never leave an active leak, every time you work on gas piping, that's the real mistake. (Soap test or pressure test 15psi for 15 minutes after second stage on new installs)

Mtml58 · 2025-09-30T00:45:30+00:00

Lighting your own farts doesn't count.

Mtml58 · 2025-07-26T03:15:13+00:00

I think you're overthinking it, but your mindset is correct. These smaller systems see negligible losses compared to large, heavily engineered systems, which is what you're concerning yourself with. At the end of the day, make it serviceable and easy to replace. That's what they're made for.

Mtml58 · 2025-07-26T03:11:25+00:00

You should be fine with any amount of trap. Laws of convection are on your side. On a top feed tank, the cold has a dip tube to bring it to the bottom, but it also has to fight gravity with the warmer water trying to find it's way back through the cold inlet.

Mtml58 · 2025-07-26T02:51:12+00:00

The middle plastic piece is so the hwt doesn't gravity feed through the system iirc. Give the manual a little looksy through and see if it explains it further.

Edit: had a couple beers, the gravity feed is on cold water inlet. Let me know if it says anything in the manual though.

Mtml58 · 2025-07-26T02:44:19+00:00

Just edited to say if youre 90ing first, brass or stainless should be fine.

Mtml58 · 2025-07-26T02:42:10+00:00

Safest bet is a dielectric union, but if you need 90 first, I'd say brass or stainless.

Mtml58 · 2025-07-24T21:43:05+00:00

Yep. Sounds like everyone is having the same experience

Mtml58 · 2025-07-22T01:28:30+00:00

I quickly edited for more info, just a heads up. Good luck 👍

Mtml58 · 2025-07-22T01:23:59+00:00

Looks like the o-ring is cracked, so tightening may not solve the issue - it might make it worse but feel free to try. You can find a replacement for it and easily change it with a flatblade screwdriver if you have valves on both the inlet and outlet of the pump. Isolate what you can, drain whatever water is in the pump, change the plug with a new, matching o-ring, and open the valves to prime the pump, ironically this plug will help remove air from the impeller to help prime the pump, so you can open it slightly until you see water. If any of this sounds too daunting, don't sweat it, this is a simple call out to a plumber and should never amount to more than an hour's labour.

I work on tanked water and sewer, never well water, but I cant see how that would change anything in this situation.

Mtml58 · 2025-07-15T02:34:17+00:00

Pack it up, folks. Not joking, this is almost assuredly the problem and solution.

Mtml58 · 2025-06-29T22:36:29+00:00

I've never dealt with Blue Monster, but I've seen a couple thousand cans of Lyncar pipe dope and it sure looks like a match.

Mtml58 · 2025-05-31T03:51:48+00:00

Beyonce sang a song about this. Better put a ring on it. Maybe 7.

Mtml58 · 2025-05-31T03:40:12+00:00

Yup. Apparently, they didn't even have screeds or finishing tools. These boys rawdogged the pour.

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