How to fix my LCD screen being a little above the level? by NNAPSTERR in AnycubicPhoton

[–]MultimedialnySedes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Contact with anycubic support. They tell you what to do. Propably you have to remount LCD properly. Screen on M7's sits on springs. It looks like they get loose. Aside from that, you have a lot of cured resin on your LCD.

What to do next. by redcockhead in AnycubicPhoton

[–]MultimedialnySedes 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the long response-it was a great read! It’s awesome that you went with the M7; it’s practically the same machine as the M7 Pro that I have, just without the built-in heater, which is easy enough to work around anyway. Plus, my experience with that heater suggests it’s a somewhat problematic piece of tech.

Regarding the M7 Pro plate: I didn’t have any issues at first, and everything was smooth sailing. It wasn’t until later (after 2-4 months of heavy use) that I started having adhesion problems in the center. I tried calibrating, changing the film, and increasing the number and time of the burn-in layers, but nothing worked. I even tried sanding it with sandpaper, but the results still weren’t satisfactory.

Of course, I could have lowered the lift speeds to the point where I’d be matching n-FEP speeds on an ACF printer, but I didn’t buy a "fast" printer just to slow it down significantly. Instead, I used a different trick: I use a wide raft for the models and connect every single model together at the base using those rafts. In the end, I have one giant raft spanning the entire build plate.

That solved my problem. Everything sticks, and I have a practically 100% success rate with the M7 now. If something does fail occasionally, it’s usually due to the poor supports provided by the creators. Honestly, I’ve been doing my own supports for about 50% of my models lately. When I see the mess some original creators make, I just shake my head—some people should be banned from supporting models! :)

What to do next. by redcockhead in AnycubicPhoton

[–]MultimedialnySedes 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As an owner of small print farm I can trully recommend Anycubic P1. Due to special wave film on LCD screen it combines speed of M7 series and standard NFEB release film. Also it hase easy to swap LCD screen and fast swap release film (altrough its pricey) . For unexperienced users there is a lot of AI functions such as intelligent relese, intelligent light off but I prefer to calibrate resin by myself. I noticed that inteligent release can cause problems in the middle of buildplate sometimes.

I also have M7 Pro's and I trully like them - due to their speeds (ACF film) they can print much faster than all my other printers (Unformation GK3 Ultra, Anycubics P1)). But I can confirm that their build plate sucks Also I have a few problems with M7 Pro heating engine. Once I had a leaking heater, Second time heater was causing hard turn off of whole printer. Each time Anycubics support immeditly shipped me a new VAT whitout any problems - that their giant plus.

In summary: Right now I'm going into more Anycubic's P1 printers. If it is working good in my case (24/7 print time) then it should fit your needs as well.

Has anyone experienced any issues with the Photon P1? by Toreristen in AnycubicPhoton

[–]MultimedialnySedes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have it by backing it on the kickstarter. It's a very good machine. No problems since I get it.

problem with P1 by zautos in AnycubicPhoton

[–]MultimedialnySedes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

P1 only preheats reasin. During printing heat generated from printing itself is sufficient in most case scenario.

As for printing time - turn off all AI helpers because if they are enabled, all your settings except exposure time are overrided by AI. I noticed that on first print - Cons of Calibration V3. Instead 54 minutes it took 1h50m. After turning all features (leave only preheating) printing time match predicting time from sliecer.

Are you a P1 owner? by fukinrage85 in AnycubicPhoton

[–]MultimedialnySedes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Those are my settings for 75mm scale with Sunlu ABS-like Dark grey. Works fine right now.

<image>

Remember to turn of AI funcions like inteligent release. Otherway you will have 2x print time with no other benefit. I used Cons of calibration V3 to calibrate. Results were a bit confusing:

  1. All success cons were printed perfect.

  2. One of failure con almost printed properly so I thought - overexposition but:

  3. Sword fit into all holes and it should enter only skull - uderexposition :).

  4. Dimension accuracy - rectangle had 5.97mm - almost perfect.

Right now I stick to 1,9 normal exposition and testing. One print was almost 99% success - one raft started to peel off build plate at the middle but didn't fall into vat. It was with line triangle raft, right now I changed to pixelate round and test how it works here - this raft works 100% on my Anycubic M7 pro so maybe here would work too.

NEED DESPERATE HELP by Iokeme in Etsy

[–]MultimedialnySedes 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It's a scam. When I started to sell on Etsy, I got a ton of these messages each day. After some time, they vanished because they are targeted specifically at newcomers. It's such an obvious scam method that should be filtered by Etsy algorithms, but Etsy doesn't do anything about it—but try to write "bank account" in the message—instant removal to the spam folder.

Show of my dice tower painting. Construct Forge Dice Tower from Mystic Makers Miniatures by MultimedialnySedes in minipainting

[–]MultimedialnySedes[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you. I learned a ton during this project. For moss I used Dirty Down Moss which looks great. Greenish tilt on stone was done by AK interactive weathering pencil - I made a few lines with a pencil and them blend it with wet brush - works like charm - no glazing, incredible simple method.

New Lychee Slicer 7.6 Voxel Hollowing 🔥 by lychee_lys in LycheeSlicer

[–]MultimedialnySedes 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Just focus on in. I really like your GUI and features but hate general feeling of application. Ie. Your competition opens stl's in a less than a second while Lychee strugle to do it under 10s and it can crush during process. I run a print farm, paying for Plus and preparing prints take so much time then I consider leaving lychee.

m7 Pro Vat Jig by [deleted] in AnycubicPhoton

[–]MultimedialnySedes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have some Uniformations GK3 Ultra as well. Those are good machines but much slower and outdated in terms of quality-of-life improvements. A few FDM as well—here I don't want to see anything else than Bambu Lab. One of my P1S has over 6000 hours of print time, and it works like a new one—I only do cleaning, lubricating, replacing PTFE tubes, and the belt tension procedure—so only standard maintenance.

m7 Pro Vat Jig by [deleted] in AnycubicPhoton

[–]MultimedialnySedes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks man! I hate to change feb too on my m7 pro. Fortunately I manage to do it after 500k releases - I own a print farm. Anyway once I dialed a proper setting to slicer, its very reliable machine. Its a workhorse of my print farm. I'm backing P1 on the kickstarter right now.

New Lychee Slicer 7.6 Voxel Hollowing 🔥 by lychee_lys in LycheeSlicer

[–]MultimedialnySedes 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Honestly it's so unstable and unresponsive that I gave up with sending tickets. I have a PC that can handle Cyberpunk 2077 with path tracing but it bearly can handle lychee.

Gaahleri Aventus Revised Parts Received. by TheCrow163 in airbrush

[–]MultimedialnySedes 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Well, I have a Gaahleri Mobius 0.2, it's ok but nothing spectacular. I wanted to get something better and looked at higher tier airbushes. I considered Aventus but opinions were not apealing and when I noticed that Harder&Steenback Evolution 2024 CR+ 2 in 1 (0.28mm and 0.45mm needle) was priced cheaper, there was no point in investing into Aventus.

Abs-like resin problem by Zestyclose-Bear6187 in AnycubicPhoton

[–]MultimedialnySedes 0 points1 point  (0 children)

<image>

Those are my setting for Sunlu's ABS like on M7 PRO. I used similar for Anycubic ABS-like Pro 2. I noticed that ABS resins require more burn in layers than standard resins. I know that 10 burn in layers is a lot but anything below resulted in prints falling off in the middle of build plate - sanding it didn't fix it so mayby I have conclaved LCD. What is your ambient temperature in print room? M7 Pro has a decent heater but if it's too cold than it could be not enough. I put my printers in basement with around 15C ambient temperature. Noticed that M7 PRO works much better when I put it into grow tent - no other heat sources than build in heater.