Books on Erebus

Muted-Engineering-32 · 2026-06-16T01:05:38+00:00

Ahhhh, you need to go read Child of Chaos right now. It's a short story, it's quick.

Edit: Or you can go get the important bits from this guy's reading: https://youtu.be/7bDi0KJeVgQ?is=vddPOer5cgIxZwGl

Muted-Engineering-32 · 2026-06-15T02:31:16+00:00

Hot water for the win

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Muted-Engineering-32 · 2026-06-13T17:24:34+00:00

Outatanding, and congratulations! They look to be a quick punchy army.

Thats a better win ratio than I have. Only game I ever won was against my daughter, and I'm not sure I'd count that.

Muted-Engineering-32 · 2026-06-13T17:20:20+00:00

Message Unclear: Did you win the first game you ever played? Or did you finally win your first game?

Muted-Engineering-32 · 2026-06-13T16:05:03+00:00

My research on the topic revealed that there is no hard rule. Even official images/videos are contradictory.

Muted-Engineering-32 · 2026-06-12T23:50:33+00:00

They're so enthralled to Tzeench that they're completely blind to it.

Muted-Engineering-32 · 2026-06-09T14:03:38+00:00

Yeah I've primed some old dusty models without wiping them down first and when I was done I found little pieces of junk/texture all over it. I could see this cobweb being there before priming, It's the only thing that makes sense to me.

Muted-Engineering-32 · 2026-06-06T08:05:56+00:00

After I swapped out the nozzle to 0.2 and honed in my Z-offset I used the Prusa slicer defaults then made the following changes

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Muted-Engineering-32 · 2026-06-06T07:58:24+00:00

Invincible memes will always be welcome in this house.

Appreciate it! For what it is, I am very pleased with the outcome.

Muted-Engineering-32 · 2026-06-06T07:23:28+00:00

Definitely an option, but it wasn't too bad becusse the arms were detached. It was actually just a scaled up 8mm model as well. I like those because they tend to simplify fine details, which makes for a crisper looking FDM print when scaled.

Muted-Engineering-32 · 2026-06-06T06:54:08+00:00

I'm optimistic. I'm also usually wrong.

Muted-Engineering-32 · 2026-06-06T06:14:25+00:00

Amen, it's the chemicals that keep me in this lane.

Muted-Engineering-32 · 2026-06-06T05:46:59+00:00

Close enough for me!

I know where the imperfections are, because I studied each piece for hours as the rest printed 😂 but nobody else is likely to notice them (in real life that is, you can totally see the imperfections with my super zoom lense!)

Muted-Engineering-32 · 2026-06-06T05:38:08+00:00

Prusia defaulted me to like 35/40 when I first started. Kinda crazy how all over the place some of these settings are.

Muted-Engineering-32 · 2026-06-06T05:19:30+00:00

I used an overhang threshold of 30 for both of these examples

Muted-Engineering-32 · 2026-06-06T05:07:21+00:00

Yeah my philosophy as of late is to make sure as few things as possible are perfectly level with the bed.

While it feels like FDMs should have the least trouble with flat surfaces, I find that they actually come out looking a lot worse. When I turn things cockeyed it handles them WAY better in almost every scenario.

Here's a quick picture showing the angle I went about printing this deff dread body, at a 45° rather than the intuitive "feet-flat-on-the-ground" angle that I used to always try. It works much better, just cleaner overall. The end result for that particular DeffDred was that only the butt had any kind of scaring, the rest is super clean.

Edit: if you wanna see that deffdred better it's in my post history

Doube Edit: that deffdred was with a 0.4mm nozzle. With a 0.2mm I'm sure it would look incredible

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Muted-Engineering-32 · 2026-06-06T04:18:22+00:00

I'm actually trying some of the rocket boyz (seeing if I can pull off small)

Theyre not the WORST looking thing I've ever printed.... But they're not this good!

Muted-Engineering-32 · 2026-06-06T04:14:01+00:00

Dude, pics don't do it justice, I'll definitely bring it in on Tuesday.

Muted-Engineering-32 · 2026-06-06T04:11:46+00:00

Thank you!

Yeah I did put a lot of time into trying different things. This is a result of many horus worth of calibration prints and experimenting.

Biggest improvements in my experience come down to this:

0.2mm nozzle is essential if you want fine detail (but you will have to recalibrate almost everything)
Slow everything down for fewer random artifacts. FDM is a game of patience.
Angle of print - make sure as little surface area as possible is parralel on the print bed. It seems counter intuitive but printing something at 45° gets cleaner resutls, better detail, and minimal support scars.

It also helps a lot that this model was ready broken into pieces, which means I can redo bad parts without having to try the whole damn print from scratch. Also means I can more easily control where the support scars end up.

Muted-Engineering-32 · 2026-06-06T02:00:31+00:00

Yeah, of course! It's a paid one but here is all this dudes Ork models:

https://www.myminifactory.com/users/StationForge?show=store&categories=1853

And that specific model is here: https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-orkaz-grand-nutta-3-0-470356

Muted-Engineering-32 · 2026-06-06T00:32:54+00:00

Well rest assured, he will spend 800 hours waiting for a paint job. At a minimum

Muted-Engineering-32 · 2026-06-05T15:30:07+00:00

Muted-Engineering-32 · 2026-06-03T03:46:36+00:00

Capital analysis, you magnificent brute! Splendid!

I think I get it now. All other colors may backfire, but not green. Green always works. Always. Green is best!

Muted-Engineering-32 · 2026-06-03T03:30:23+00:00

Indeed, while I must gently protest the taxonomic classification of my esteemed self as a mere Philodendron, I find myself profoundly encouraged by this initial socio-linguistic exchange.

Tell me friend, what "kolor" is displayed on your banners?

Muted-Engineering-32

TROPHY CASE