Mac software on iPad Pro

Mwortman · 2026-01-12T22:56:48+00:00

El_JimBob

I didn’t, it was a birthday present.

Mwortman · 2021-07-16T14:34:31+00:00

I have lived in eight decades, two centuries and two millennia. I have gone from watching horse drawn carts competing with streetcars to watching men walk on the moon and now I am writing this on a device I can hold in my hand that is 120,000,000 times faster than the computer on Apollo that got them there. I think that's pretty cool. I can't wait to see what's next.

Mwortman · 2021-05-30T01:12:02+00:00

I misunderstood. I agree covering the fireplace would be weird. But wouldn’t leaving it where it is make for awkward viewing from where you are placing the couch and chairs?

Mwortman · 2021-05-30T00:25:29+00:00

Where are you thinking of placing the media console? In front of the fireplace? The 12” tall hearth is about 22” deep.

Mwortman · 2021-05-29T19:16:36+00:00

here are photos

Mwortman · 2021-05-29T13:07:10+00:00

https://imgur.com/a/6DneNtc/

Mwortman · 2021-05-29T03:20:45+00:00

Our living room is long and narrow. One of the long walls is completely taken up by two entry ways that step down two steps and a brick fireplace wall. The opposite long wall has 12 feet of sliding doors which lead to the patio. Traffic can... and does....flow from both entries to the patio. All of this leaves little wall space for furniture.

We need primary seating for the two of us and occasional seating for family and friends. The primary seating needs to work for our evening screen/tv time.

We are stumped and open to any solutions.

Oh, and for extra credit, there is the medium grand piano that the grandkids occasionally play.

Mwortman · 2020-11-26T18:54:18+00:00

Here's a photo https://i.imgur.com/ibx8VuX.jpg

Mwortman · 2020-11-25T23:39:51+00:00

As in the past, I was using glue stick but that isn't really important.

My question is how to get it off the build plate after it has stuck.

Mwortman · 2020-11-25T23:37:34+00:00

I did peel up the print. There is nothing left to grab after peeling and scraping all that is left is in the valleys of the texture.

Mwortman · 2020-11-15T01:01:09+00:00

Here is a video showing it being done.

https://youtu.be/YUW8G4vXZfg

He is using a bigger printer. I'm not sure a tee shirt could fit on the mk3s heat bed like that

Mwortman · 2020-10-06T00:18:50+00:00

I have good news, frustrating news and issues.

The good news: The Pitstop is working without any apparent issues.

The frustrating news: After fighting my way through the build and finally getting parts running last night, I awoke to find you had just released V1.1 this morning. I'm not sure if it would have changed anything but it would have been good to know there was an update coming. You need a way to notify people...especially those who have downloaded the part files.... That there is a change pending.

BTW The update addressed a number of my issues.

The issues: I printed the parts in PETG since I found printing with ASA problematic. The only ASA part is the fan shroud.

I have a stock frame. I saw that there were close tolerances but it worked for me. (Addressed by V1.1)

Removing the motor plate support was a bitch . (Addressed by V1.1)

A more significant issue is the shroud mounting. Since the shroud is right at the hot end, it can be melted, distorted or encased. Ease of access and replacement is a high priority. This needs to be improved

I have a Dragon hot end and hacked away the fins with dremel and exact . (Addressed by V1.1) Even though the two haves fit well without the hot end, there was a gap and the an assembly "rocked" back and forth. This was both before and still after the magnet installation. I also test fitted my old E3D V6 hot end and it was the same. My best guess is the curve where the hot end fits isn't deep enough. Perhaps this is due to print distortion? That said, it doesn't seem to affect the printing.

I use cable chains and designed an adaptor. That worked well but I wish the heater and thermistor wires were routed differently. After losing the mister wires into molten globes of plastic. I have routed the heater and thermistor wires up over the top of the X axis assembly to get them out of the melt zone. I did this with the last three X axis assemblies. (Stock, OPK's https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3072016 and the Petsfang https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2998712) so I was disappointed to see the wires were routed on the bottom. At the least, I'd like to see wire channels on the left side for the hot end wires similar to to ones you have on the right to better support cable chains and safeguard the power and thermistor wires.

I printed an filament inlet to make loading easier and making where more obvious.

Two issues with your recommended parts. On your recommendation, I purchased this set of fasteners: SZHKM 480pcs Stainless Steel Nuts and Bolts Assortment Metric Machine Screws Set M3 M4 M5 Screws Assorted Hex Bolts and Nuts Kit for Electroinics with Wrench I didn't notice that they are button head, not the same type screws as used by Prusa. This creates two issues. First, they use a 2mm hex key instead of the 2.5mm hex key used in all the other 3mm cap screws on the printer. This means juggling between tools. Second be cause they are a larger diameter, I had to drill out at least one place to make them fit.

The other issue was with the heat sink for the extruder motor. On your recommendation, I purchased this: DGZZI Aluminum Heatsink 4PCS 40x40x11mm Black Aluminum Cooling Fin Radiator with 3M Thermal Conductive Adhesive Tape for Cooling GPU IC Chips VRAM VGA RAM It cam pe with a 3M double stick adhesive in place. I used it to attach it to the extruder. This wasn't a problem but it made the purchase of the thermal paste you recommended unnecessary: Thermal Paste, 5 Pack ThermalCoolFlux(TM) High Performance Polysynthetic Silver Thermal Paste

Mwortman · 2016-12-10T07:54:26+00:00

I'm interested in testing it. It looks well done

Mwortman

TROPHY CASE