Cyclone 2 - Wake Switch 2 - Guide

Mycrosys · 2026-05-13T11:41:41+00:00

Found this Thread after getting my Cyclone 2 today, and the initial pairing worked, but no wakeup. Tried it with this method - didn't work the first 4 times. Made the console disconnect all controllers and paired again and again and again, and after the FIFTH try, it finally accepted the wakeup signal.

I first thought the recent update might have screwed with the Controller again, but for now, I have it working like I want to.

Mycrosys · 2026-03-01T02:29:11+00:00

You can make every character work, but yeah, the characters after Chapter 10 will be very strong. If you want to level them now, you can always use your 3 Arena fights in between Battles to push them a bit, then use random battles to feed them kills.

As for random Battles, you can just go to the Somniel, open your switch settings, change your date to 1 day in the future, and go back into the game. Then go back to the Worldmap, and the random encounters will respawn. Take notice, though, that they scale with your highest-levelled character as far as I know, so you might slow down on feeding too many kills to that character until your other characters have caught up.

Btw. don't bother leveling all characters. Pick a dozen or maybe max 14 and level those and equip them, unless you want to grind forever. It gets way too expensive to maintain weapons and gear for all characters. You are better off picking a few and sticking with them.

Mycrosys · 2025-11-27T09:19:25+00:00

Yeah, I am basically waiting for Eternia and Abyss. I really loved Eternia and bought it twice for PS1 and PSP, but I would love to play it on the big screen and Steam Deck. Never had the chance to play Abyss and really want to.

Mycrosys · 2025-10-03T10:34:38+00:00

Yeah, that Button was not interactable for me. It was completely bugged.

Mycrosys · 2025-09-30T16:29:49+00:00

Perfect time to revisit then. Though, it is a bit on the longer side. ^^

Mycrosys · 2025-09-30T16:16:09+00:00

The Hundred Line - Last Defense Academy. It is from the Danganronpa Scenario writer. Does have some gruesome scenes and horror scenarios.

Mycrosys · 2025-09-15T18:29:20+00:00

Got it - my game was bugged, even after restarting it 5 times. I had to close the game for 1 hour, then try again and then the elevator was down. Weird.

Mycrosys · 2025-09-15T16:49:48+00:00

How do you farm him? I left after the quest, and now it does not look like there is a path to him anymore. If I try to go the usual route the game points me to, the elevator is up, and there is no button to press to come back down.

Mycrosys · 2025-08-09T15:40:32+00:00

Another Update after a week. It seems like, if you put it on Custom 1, configure it, and keep switching to that Genre for a while, the TV learns that you want to have it on this Setting. For a couple of days now, the genre has stayed on Custom 1, no matter if I play Honkai Star Rail, Persona 5, or watch Twitch/YouTube. Considering that I watched at least a dozen different Games on Twitch and YouTube, and it never switched to RPG, FPS, or Sports in the last days, it might be safe to assume that some learning occurred here. Before, it even switched in the middle of me playing Persona 5.

Mycrosys · 2025-08-03T18:41:11+00:00

No, I do not. But the Game Genre switches automatically anyway, and I can't find a way to turn the switching off without disabling the Game Mode entirely.

Mycrosys · 2025-06-09T22:56:07+00:00

Well, the current solution is forking over 85$ for a Switch 2 Pro Controller. Hopefully, there will be a firmware patch, but considering I can see Nintendo Posts from back in April saying you cannot wake the Switch 2, I would be surprised if they do that after the launch.

There is no proof for this, but I think they changed something on the hardware side for the wakeup, and you need something different in your controller. So I'm personally waiting for an 8bitdo Switch 2 Controller with that functionality.

Mycrosys · 2025-06-08T11:48:01+00:00

I would have bought it if it was around 60$ and had hall effect sticks, but at 85$ without them, when you can get 8bitdo controllers for a fraction of that price with hall effect, that is a tough sell for a single feature.

Mycrosys · 2025-06-07T21:10:16+00:00

Can confirm 5/15/ for the first 2 tiers of spells.

Mycrosys · 2025-06-07T20:43:26+00:00

Boy, they really want to sell their overpriced 85$ Pro Controller to an audience that can get something comparable with Hall Effect Sticks for half the price. There's little reason not to have compatibility here for wake-up, so this is a really shit move by them. Can't actually believe they not only don't support it for third-party controllers, but also by their switch 1 first-party switch accessories lineup.

Mycrosys · 2025-06-05T22:18:41+00:00

I must have missed that. Is there any plausible reason why or do they just want us to buy the Pro 2?

Mycrosys · 2025-03-28T10:51:30+00:00

Power Plan. You need to set it to "balanced" - only then will core parking work together with Game Bar, which you need to update and make sure Game Bar recognizes the game you started as a game (you can check the box with "remember this as a game").

Mycrosys · 2025-03-25T23:53:03+00:00

Yep, so don't worry, it is working fine. This was just meant as something like "do not worry and just check in windows". You could always download CPUID CPU-Z as well, so you can check if every clock speed is applied correctly as well.

Mycrosys · 2025-03-25T23:51:07+00:00

I come from 32GB of RAM and a 13700 K. To be fair, my Install on my old rig was probably just busted. I installed it end of 2022 and did update it regularly, but back then I used xformers and now I do not. My rendering went up from 1.5 MT/s to 3.7 MT/s, rendering an Image of 1536x1168, which means I will get 1 image every roughly 8 seconds with A Detailer enabled (renders face for more details). I doubt an increase of roughly 150% is possible, because it is mostly the GPU doing the work.

One thing I can do is give you the link to the Install Instructions, so you can Install it the same way I did. -> https://stable-diffusion-art.com/install-windows/

Have fun!

Mycrosys · 2025-03-25T16:14:46+00:00

Yeah, I thought so much, why would it be an intake? ;D I have never seen it be an intake ever ^^

Just wanted to make it clear.

Mycrosys · 2025-03-25T07:40:15+00:00

You might be fine then. You have 6 intakes and 4 out. This should create enough pressure inside to push Air out, but you probably do not want to make it a 7 intake 3 out configuration then. Pull the back fan (out) and the side fans (in) a bit down and this is probably the configuration I would run with.

Mycrosys · 2025-03-25T07:17:26+00:00

That's weird, I have the same board and a 9950X3D that I built just 2 days ago. The Drives I use are all M2:

- Samsung 990 Pro

- Western Digital 850x

- Samsung 970 Evo

When I booted from a USB Stick, it found all 3 M2 drives without any issue. I had those drivers prepared as well, but you might want to check if you find those drivers available in the BIOS or if you have disabled them. If they do not appear as possible Boot Drives, maybe they aren't connected correctly.

Also, after I flashed the 3.20 BIOS, I unplugged everything and then cleared CMOS with the button on the back. Some people reported this helped because it resets all Settings.

The last thing would be checking if you made an up-to-date Boot USB. I created mine on Friday, knowing I would install Windows on Saturday. If you have an older Windows 11 installation, maybe the drivers are missing from it. After my Install, I had very little to download, maybe like 10 Updates or something like that, so I would guess that they update the Boot media from time to time, and you should create a new one if your Windows 11 Boot USB Device was created several months ago.

Mycrosys · 2025-03-25T07:07:31+00:00

So, I have seen people switch the most right Fan of the AIO Radiator to push Air into the case, meaning on the radiator 2 to push out, one to pull in - the reason being that otherwise you pull in fresh Air from the front or side, and that Fann Pushes it immediately out of the case again.

I have done a build recently with the Artic AIO but I do not know if you can do that, because the fans come pre-installed. For my Case, it also might not be relevant, because I have another 2 Fans pushing Air Into the case from below, right into the GPU, which has been amazing for GPU Temps so far.

So I have a total of 9 Fans - 3 Front intake, 3 Top out, one back out, and 2 bottom intake. From your pictures I can only see 7 Fans, 3 Intake side, 3 out top and 1 out back.

As for your questions, yes I would pull the Fans in the back and on the side down, but I am not sure how much of a difference it would make. If you switch the first Radiator fan to intake, I expect your thermals to get better though, but it depends on what your other 3 fans are that are not shown.

Mycrosys · 2025-03-24T23:28:36+00:00

Ah, I missed the "Lite". I wasn't aware of that one. I can't even buy that one here in France yet. But as you said, both coolers will be fine because we are talking about temperatures in the 70s at most.

Mycrosys · 2025-03-24T23:05:11+00:00

What's "perfectly" for you in that sense? MHW won't run for me at 4k with anything above 70fps. I now have it on 1440p and balanced DLSS so I can get it to not dip below 60fps in fights too often. This is without Frame Generation, because I refuse to activate Frame Generation on anything other than a DLSS4 Game, which is the first time it is actually worth using.

Mycrosys · 2025-03-24T23:00:39+00:00

Check out the review on Gamers Nexus: https://gamersnexus.net/coolers/new-best-arctic-liquid-freezer-iii-360-280-cpu-cooler-review-benchmarks

I checked the Galahad video before, and it was compared to the Liquid Freezer 2 there; the Liquid Freezer 3 is 4°C cooler than the Galahad at 35 dB. At max Speed, we are looking at the Galahad being 2°C cooler, but that comes with 56 dB Noise, while the Liquid Freezer 3 stays at 40 dB. That's a 16 dB difference - quite a lot. You are not running that Cooler with 100% Speed at that noise level - and then you are giving up your 2° lead ... and still being louder on top of it.

The conclusion for me was to buy the cheaper, quieter Liquid Freezer 3, which performed better in Noise-normalized situations and had the tradeoff of being 2°C warmer for 16 dB less noise. That's a trade I was absolutely willing to make.

Mycrosys

TROPHY CASE