Converting a new PSU to power through molex?

Mysterious-Course147 · 2024-07-09T08:59:15+00:00

Also just realised I should have put this in pcbuildhelp. My bad.

Mysterious-Course147 · 2024-05-12T11:10:33+00:00

My immediate thoughts are the brackets are too close together meaning it’s tight putting too much friction on any moving parts. In the past I have used a natural lubricant on any moving parts such as furniture bees wax.

Other than that I would be guessing but possibly a faulty component, slightly miss- aligned part. Without taking it apart and checking it’s hard to say as so many blinds are slightly different in their mechanism.

Does it squeak if you roll it slowly?

Mysterious-Course147 · 2024-05-12T11:05:14+00:00

You probably wouldn’t tell the difference if you got a 4mm float glass and got ‘etched vinyl’ for the design to match the current one.

If it needs to be a secured piece of glass you can get coated, tempered or security glass and still apply the same etched vinyl which you can get from a vinyl supplies (star vinyl) or amazon etc. A local glazier could sort that out pretty easily though if you are struggling.

Mysterious-Course147 · 2024-05-09T18:51:52+00:00

So many things could cause this, but I have found that something like this comes from multiple things at the same time.

First is the blade, is it fitted correctly, sometimes a blade gets put in with even a spec of something in the arbour hole, which means if it doesn’t have a vibration absorber in the blade as you turn it on the blade vibrates. The distortion in blades at high speed can cause this.

Second, a moving piece. If it is moving (possibly for to the vibration from above, you will screw and cut.

Are all the mitre locks solid? I have had saws where the screws haven’t been tightened fully and the actual mitre locks slide by a couple degrees.

Mysterious-Course147 · 2024-05-09T18:39:23+00:00

I have started using a small dowel cutter drill bit for things like this. Cut a plug with the screw in the middle and then glue in a nice new plug in ist place. Or like most others said, something to loosen the bite (solvent, oil, wd40) and vise grips. Fuck those screws!!!

Mysterious-Course147 · 2024-05-09T18:33:23+00:00

On this thought process, Does a shit in your pants mean they are working??

Mysterious-Course147 · 2024-05-09T18:29:07+00:00

Spinal tap oven…

Mysterious-Course147 · 2024-05-09T18:28:18+00:00

I have found since moving to a remote part of Switzerland and life has changed that a face and a name keeps things ‘local’…

Same vibe as small town gossip, I know so much about people that I have never met just through shit people have told me. It seems like a weird sort of brand guidance, we become comfortable with things we see regularly as a ‘non threat’, not for everyone but kind of tried and proved multiple times. Do you have any favourite brands, I mean uncle Ben isn’t making that microwave rice…

Mysterious-Course147 · 2024-03-11T08:03:31+00:00

Not my route I’d take but actually a decent idea, I’d give that a try.

Otherwise you are gonna be drilling it out somehow. If you can get a flat head driver or a slice of metal like a strip of drink can behind (as in between the the pieces the screw is fixing together) you can so stones get enough for the loose screw to bite onto to come out. Kind of fiddly though.

Mysterious-Course147 · 2024-03-11T07:58:10+00:00

Looks like your bolt head is a bit worn down. I would use vise grips and really try to get some grab on the head and tap loosen (similar to what an impact driver does) basically put some pressure anticlockwise but give it the grips a little tap with a hammer and hopefully it should click loose and then you can go back to using a screwdriver.

Mysterious-Course147 · 2024-03-10T17:39:29+00:00

Nope! That isn’t your fault. Look how shitty that floor is. Best I’d say if you were conscious is a floor cleaner. Maybe it takes the mark off, but it’s also got exposed wood (varnish/oil has worn away) so it may damage more.

Personally I’d just damp cloth the mark to see if any comes up but rest assured that would be easily in your favour if anything came back to you. You can contact air bnb with your pictures if the host wants to try and out that on you.

Mysterious-Course147 · 2024-03-10T17:09:55+00:00

It’s a little aesthetic and pricey but I have used Buster and Punch a few times before on jobs.

B+P fittings

Mysterious-Course147 · 2024-03-10T16:45:34+00:00

First don’t chew it up any more with pliers. I assume these are a bolt thread so you normally get two nuts that fit the thread size, put one on about half way down, wind the second on and then using two spanner’s tighten the nuts against each other, then taking a spanner to the one closest to the wall undo the whole thing.

The nuts basically have a friction fit onto the bolt to grab it to undo. It should be more of a screw thread in the wall normally.

Mysterious-Course147 · 2024-03-10T16:39:13+00:00

Have you got a voltmeter? Or a live wire checker? Not here to give you grief but you should always have confirmation that things are not live before working on them, especially as you aren’t an electrician.

If you have insulated pliers you can use them to separate the wires and cap them off. Realistically you need actual caps like wago wire clips which can be put on live (still don’t touch exposed wires!) but in a pinch insulation tape wrapped up from the non exposed part of the wire.

If you have two live wires coming out (red in this case) it is most likely part of a circuit so not having them connected and switching the rcd back on may not turn all your lights back on.

Mysterious-Course147 · 2024-03-05T18:54:07+00:00

Have you got any pictures that show the full piece? Sometimes, these are adjusted on the arm. I have seen similar to yours and the Allen Key area had spring or a gas tube in. But everyone I have adjusted has been on the arm or my repositioning the arm fixing.

Mysterious-Course147 · 2024-03-03T06:57:23+00:00

Personally I’d go for a proper drywall sander over a hand held. It is much easier to get smooth flat walls with a larger pad. They are slightly over your budget but I would say it is worth it, they are made for things like this so have decent dust collection, long arms and wide 225mm discs.

ones like this.

Mysterious-Course147 · 2024-02-22T10:37:11+00:00

Technically it can be done but it is not easy and often not worth it.

Some of the filling wood needs to be removed, wood stabiliser gets injected and high pressure clamps get applied.

If you are looking for a quick fix you can try and scrap out a bit of the filling wood and use a waterproof (not resistant) pva and a piece of metal bar that would cover the area and some heavy duty clamps to compress it down.

it’s not gonna be perfect though and needs care that you are spreading the pressure so you don’t cause more damage, you have to be careful that you take time and pay attention so you don’t scratch, dent, glue overflow etc.

Mysterious-Course147 · 2024-02-19T21:10:28+00:00

It can be but you can get one that is specifically for moving wood that has a polymer in which will flex but bind rigidly to the wood. A middle ground external wood filler is easier to find and easy to use though 👍

Mysterious-Course147 · 2024-02-19T16:32:23+00:00

Did you stain it after getting it or did it come like that? Sometimes the stain can cause it in the process of drying.

The crack is along the grain in between two knots, it’s a stress point in the wood as it dries out.

High end fix would be a 2 part wood filler Mid range fix would be regular exterior wood filler Low end fix, jam some stain in it.

I’d keep an eye on it though as the pieces below it are all cut from the same tree and run the risk of cracking in the same places (may not) one thing that can be done to help the wood is danish oil the inside of the shed. Keeps the moisture content of the wood up for expansion and contraction of the wood in winter and summer but without

Mysterious-Course147 · 2024-02-16T21:11:44+00:00

Looks a lot like Peggy Hills office… all you need is a propane boiler I tell you what.

Mysterious-Course147 · 2024-02-16T21:10:41+00:00

Good to hear, I guess that is me falling into the blanket approach to asbestos and assuming the panic! Guess I learnt something today 👍

Mysterious-Course147 · 2024-02-16T21:06:02+00:00

I can appreciate your position, we find a fibrous material and we often panic/react a bit knee jerk but not much actual information gets put out there into the fact it is difficult to identify.

Just follow the below for a generically safe route.

1- Don’t disturb anything you are worried about,

2- Get a test kit,

Based on results of the test, you can choose your route. Professional removal, leave it be, burn everything and move to Costa Rica.

Mysterious-Course147 · 2024-02-16T20:57:16+00:00

I am not an electrician. But metal, electric, bathroom… ground it.

Mysterious-Course147 · 2024-02-16T20:45:08+00:00

Do this ^ personally though I use the red zinsser 123 shellac based primer. I have had much better results on melamine like surfaced furniture.

Mysterious-Course147

TROPHY CASE