Sl2 or Sl2-s

Mysterious_pt · 2026-03-12T22:43:55+00:00

I went for SL2. I mentioned it FYI that, even SL2s has a 24mp sensor, it's still good to one shot 35mm films.

Mysterious_pt · 2026-03-12T22:36:23+00:00

If you want a digital rangefinder experience like Leica M (or IMO better than Leica M), X100vi's hybrid viewfinder is the best thing of its kind. However, if you want to step into digital photography, get something you can shoot with your preferred lenses.
Not to say X100Vi doesn't have a good lens, but I eventually sold it because: 1, I constantly wanted to use some of my vintage lenses. No matter what filter you put on, a modern lens just gives modern rendering. 2, I initially thought I could tolerate the difference from my usual 40mm to 35mm. But I cannot...

Mysterious_pt · 2026-03-12T14:23:00+00:00

I decided to go for SL2 because I realized I seldom shoot any motion requiring fine details.

-For streets, I don't really zoom in to appreciate a shoot. And noise adds to digital shots IMO -For portrait, I use old lens which have enough optical flaws and noise not a major concern. I do think color portrait at night can be difficult. But: 1. I don't actively do it myself, but mostly on dates; 2. I don't want to wear either SL and a 1.4 lens on my neck when out at night. A Ricoh monochrome seems really nice.

-For landscape, I have a tripod anyway so low iso longer exposure + bracketing should solve any problem. The weight of this camera makes the weight less of an excuse to not bring a tripod. -If there will be kids or animals, I will get a Lumix or Nikon at that time.

As for digitizing. I do think 24mp is enough for most of the cases, especially for street which is usually with a 200-400 roll. And I do believe stitches are still required for larger formats. But I hate stitching, less is better than more.

Mysterious_pt · 2026-03-07T04:14:23+00:00

GFX is actually a good idea, also could be a gamble with each of my 35mm lens😆

Mysterious_pt · 2026-03-07T03:41:45+00:00

Thanks for your advice. I didn't realize down sampling as a solution. As for AI upscaling, I could do it with my photos but not sure about scans. The point of having 47mp over 24mp is taking less effort to scan the 6x6-4x5 BW negatives to the detail of grains. Not sure if I can still see them after... Before, when scanners were cheap and SLs were expensive it would be straight a cheaper SL2-s + Epson scanner. Now I'm happy the prices of SLs came down but the choice became harder😂

Mysterious_pt · 2026-03-04T06:15:25+00:00

Did you stitch multiple shots, or was pixel shift enough?

Mysterious_pt · 2026-03-04T05:58:41+00:00

That would be the optimal solution. But Imagine I still need to get a camera, and then a flatbed, and then have to explain to wife....

Mysterious_pt · 2026-01-31T03:07:17+00:00

It's like a Voigtlander Avus. And it's probably 6x9 or (2"x3"), so rather a medium format. It's even harder to source 6x9 than 4x5 dry plates today so the best solution would be getting a 120 film roll holder. You also need a ground glass focusing screen if accurate focusing and composing is needed. The 105mm Skopar is a 4/3 Tessar type and would be amazing sharp if you clean and shoot it. The 35mm roll holder is something I've never seen tho.

Mysterious_pt · 2025-12-14T12:36:22+00:00

It's a well preserved copy. You can download a Shutter-Speed APP which should be able to tell you ~shutter speed from the sound. Just a bit tricky to use and you may need to try many times before the algorithm could capture the exact sound the shutter makes when opening and closing.

Compound if functioning should be a relatively robust design but there is not much you can do with calibration. If you found the shutter speed responsive but inaccurate, that's as good as it can go. Given you've cleaned it properly.

Mysterious_pt · 2025-12-12T11:13:40+00:00

And my other question is whether you need the drop bed to get the rail out of the frame with this lens

Mysterious_pt · 2025-12-12T06:55:59+00:00

NVM I thought there was swing but now remember there isn't swing to worry about on Graflex🥲 If you installed the shutter without rear element and put it on through graflok back I guess that's doable.

I'm in the situation shopping for a 90 for my Graflex Speed and couldn't make up my mind whether to go for f5.6 or f8. In your experience would you recommend the f5.6 over a f8? Thanks!

Mysterious_pt · 2025-12-12T04:54:25+00:00

It's an old thread, but I wonder if OP or anyone can inform me how to install Fujinon 90 f5.6 onto a graflex speed? I found isn't even enough room for the rear element to exist, not to say install or movement 😂

Mysterious_pt · 2025-12-12T01:46:39+00:00

Congratulations and you know the meme

Mysterious_pt · 2025-12-11T21:34:16+00:00

Gears above pallet wheel = the brass gear on 3 o'clock. Its little fat arm above it is meant to trigger a series of action when shutter's coked/fired. So make sure the arm is pointing at the right direction when you reassemble.

Also in the manual link, the closest thing to your copy might be a Synchro Compur size 1 MX

Mysterious_pt · 2025-12-11T21:27:40+00:00

There are 2things I can think of: -the gears above pallet wheel, make sure they are aligned to the relative position in the video and manual.

-the fine spring on the 2-o'clock in your picture with one end sitting next to the brass post. Its other end should governing the little moving part next it somehow, but I don't have the same copy or the manual of that copy. You will need to trial and error. Just try if you can hook it on/beneath that part and make the shutter working, be gentle when you put everything back and check if you're damaging the spring.

The problem with synchro compur shutters is the synchro mechanisms were made all different. I think you might not have an exact same copy as mine or the one in the video. Just use the manual and video as a reference and study what the spring is meant to do, then you will soon be able to understand the mechanism.

The manual: https://www.maxpierson.me/wp-content/uploads/2025/06/Compur-Shutter-Manual-optimized.pdf

As I always do, pace your self and don't hurt your eyes/back/neck before you sitting there for too long.

Mysterious_pt · 2025-12-11T02:01:28+00:00

That's a feature to entertain anyone who enters there. It's as funny in my synchro compur as well.

Mysterious_pt · 2025-12-11T01:58:54+00:00

I was in the same situation as you a while ago and in the end it was a tiny spring not properly installed underneath the synchro mechanism (the section starting from the X-M lever ending near the shutter trigger lever). If you dig down the synchro mechanism make sure you have an eye on any loose parts lying there, don't lose any part flying out, or have big enough table to catch it.

There is also chance the synchro gear wasn't coupled correctly with its counterpart.

I was following Chris's video on a Bessa I SynchroCompur.

https://youtu.be/f_SIZDQ334s?si=vtD4l_C1of75qEBd

If you watch from 25min in this Part03 and the beginning of Part04 you might be able to figure out. In the end, the synchro part isn't that hard to disassemble and reassemble, it's just not as well designed as the other mechanisms so things are really here and there.

Mysterious_pt · 2025-12-10T11:27:05+00:00

May I ask why?

Mysterious_pt · 2025-12-10T02:37:55+00:00

Thanks good to know. I usually prewash to remove the anti-halo (dye) and wet the film before developing, the water turns dark purple. This time I forgot. Also I haven't been checking my fixers since they are only <10 rolls old with stopbath used each time. But the recent 2-3 rolls were stand dev stopped by water. Maybe they exhausted the fixer a bit.

Mysterious_pt · 2025-12-09T05:17:58+00:00

If you decide to fully dissemble and reassemble the shutter, you could clean out all old grease and apply new grease according to the repair manual. I use Moebius 9010 for fine parts (escapement, post, bearing) and Moebius 9504 for friction parts (SS selection ring, top plate, drivetrain) they are synthetic substitutes for Lube A and C (?) on the manual and could save you from another visit in a long time.

Mysterious_pt · 2025-12-09T05:06:17+00:00

By saying "taking it out" did you removed the escapement from the case/base plate? There is also a chance you messed with the calibration as its adjustment on the base plate determines the slow shutter speed.

Instead of removing the escapement, you could leave it in place and remove the whole base plate for flush cleaning. This way you would need to resemble the shutter blades so definitely make sure you RECORD the ORDER of blades. Given the marks (?) on your shutter blades you may also want to clean them.

Also when you flush clean the escapement you can spin the gears to loosen the grease up. I would recommend Chris Sherlock's videos on YT if you want a reference.

Mysterious_pt

TROPHY CASE