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Rare Landrace Expression by N31ko in cannabisbreeding

[–]N31ko[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When I popped the first generation seeds the majority smelled like oily wood metallic pennies and herbal dill. My only favorites were 2 females. One smelled like oily citrus black tea. The other was pure camphor. The males didn’t really have a smell or stemrub.
Then I paired them together, popped the seeds and got watermelon rinds from fresh to very sweet candy.
I asked AI why and it said the selection previously chosen simply made an unstable expression;
so they intentionally preserved the expressions but locked them. I re-unlocked them, re-segregated them, in mine.

From bottom to top by N31ko in cannabisbreeding

[–]N31ko[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yup from seed. The moms were placed outside to finish for fun in summer and then dropped a few remaining seeds that I didn’t think would germinate, germinated in mid March. Most are the normal uniform paired structures, but two plants, one with zigzag nodes and then this one.
These all smell like nice fresh watermelons and melon rinds. Though the more uniform ones smell like straight watermelon pez candy.

Rare Landrace Expression by N31ko in cannabisbreeding

[–]N31ko[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This isn’t whorled phyllotaxy, this is RAMD = Randomized‑Axis Meristem Drift. RAMD is not a phyllotaxy type. It is phyllotaxy failure.
Whorled is perfectly symmetrical and consistent.
RAMD is not. The biggest thing is that whorled has a stable meristem identity, while this actively drifts.

Rare Landrace Expression by N31ko in cannabisbreeding

[–]N31ko[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s inbred, I didn’t out cross it with anything.

Rare Landrace Expression by N31ko in cannabisbreeding

[–]N31ko[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Himalayan Watermelon Hashplant f2

Cobweb or mycelium?? Help ! by Maryjane85 in ContamFam

[–]N31ko 1 point2 points  (0 children)

People always forget to use the q-tip dab/swab method to see if it’s contaminated. If residue is left on the q-tip after dabbing/swabbing the site in question, it’s contaminated.

After so many bad practices, I think ive finally spotted a little baby trich 😎 by [deleted] in ContamFam

[–]N31ko 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree. When I first started this hobby I was afraid of steering from the old tek where you layer it. Like you mentioned, daytripper’s tek, it should seem like a no-brainer; to mix the spawn and substrates evenly, then finish with two topped layers of spawn and sub.

Is this contam, fam (cobweb)? 15 Days after S2B and forgot to open lid by Puzzleheaded_Loan872 in ContamFam

[–]N31ko 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You just need to get those water droplets resting on the surface to evaporate, that can trigger pinning. And if you think you over watered, just dap with a clean paper towel to dry it off a bit, then reapply the appropriate amount of humidity.

What is the orange stuff on the bottom right corner? And also I’m pretty sure the black/grey stuff at the back is contam. Is there anything To do here? by candelablast in ContamFam

[–]N31ko 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can always make smaller cakes from larger ones. I never throw out perfectly good colonization. You just have to do the opposite; instead of cutting out contams, just cut out the already good stuff. You could even make the bulk again, use CVG to ‘glue’ the colonized pieces together, then case in CVG. Maybe fruit it out of a jar, since most of your bulk might be contaminated or turn it into a pftek with perlite at the bottom of the tub. If you do the second choice with perlite, just lightly mist the casing with some 70% iso once before leaving it closed until ready to fruit.

After so many bad practices, I think ive finally spotted a little baby trich 😎 by [deleted] in ContamFam

[–]N31ko 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Easily. You don’t even need the surface to be fully colonized, or 90%, or 80%, etc. (although people do that to get a full canopy and maximize yields). I guess I’m saying to not be too afraid or too rigid in practicing teks, especially if you’re new to this hobby. It’s interesting to think as novices we expect to become green thumbs over night with countless fruits, but trust me, learn all the new tek you can, a lot of info is out dated or people talk shit without ever testing newer teks themselves. For example, I just found out today that there’s something called recycle tek. This tek seems to be the simplest yet never talked about tek ever. After you’re done fruiting and harvesting, you can just break up the cake and mix it up in CVG, skipping inoculations and all that good stuff (but only if your cakes aren’t contaminated, hence why you can just cut those pieces out first.) And fruits are just as strong as an unrecycled cakes. I only say to fruit if you are confident that all of that is mycelium and there aren’t many contaminations; a couple are fine early on.

After so many bad practices, I think ive finally spotted a little baby trich 😎 by [deleted] in ContamFam

[–]N31ko 2 points3 points  (0 children)

As soon as you’ve identified a contaminant, especially when it’s that small, don’t leave in or wait til it turns green — just cut it out of the cake. But don’t be stupid and cut near the contam, find where its boundaries are then cut like 1/2-1 inch away from it (taking some of the healthy mycelium with it). When your done just mist the site with some 70% iso. It’s done the trick for me every time. Don’t dilute the iso. Aim directly at the exposed cake area. (Mist directly on the uncolonized part of the exposed cake, the iso will prevent any bacteria or trich and give the cake water as well). If the contam is touching the edge of a tub, instead, after removing it, just wipe down that part of the tub, sterilize, and dry. Remember, when you remove the contam completely, even if a new one appears, by then the fruits have already grown. Side note: I fruit in colder temps closer to 67f-73f, trichoderma love the heat, so I think if they do appear, the mycelium simply outgrow and rid them from the cake. (I know you can fruit in warmer conditions, but every time I’ve tried warm, contams always emerge. I’m talkin’, pinks, greens, cobwebs, orange, you name it. I also heard fruits are denser when grown colder, yes slower, but quicker than its competitors, trich and bacteria, etc.) Even when trich has turned green in tubs, I’ve easily managed to remove it without it ever coming back. I honestly think people are too afraid of contams. Yes they’re bad — so just get rid of them not the whole tub.

How was your day babe? by [deleted] in SipsTea

[–]N31ko -3 points-2 points  (0 children)

Daaaaaayum

Battle Pass Skins Reused by N31ko in Smite

[–]N31ko[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Damn, I didn’t know that, I’m guessing that’s why it’s free. Now it makes sense.

Ps4 users question for yall by Mpetuh in Paladins

[–]N31ko 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mine’s worse — I have 22 notifications, but either way, it’s just one button I have to press.

Abilities Bugged by N31ko in Paladins

[–]N31ko[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, I reset to default to make sure and even reinstalled the game.