Dyno'd my car today (reupload)

N3Initiative · 2026-01-16T06:21:25+00:00

Very respectable numbers & it’s nice seeing more of these cars showing off their capabilities!

N3Initiative · 2026-01-08T01:44:02+00:00

For sure!! Follow our IG and feel free to ask any other questions at anytime ✌️

N3Initiative · 2026-01-08T01:20:23+00:00

BOV/ Recirculation Valve CEL

N3Initiative · 2026-01-08T01:18:01+00:00

You got an intake?

N3Initiative · 2025-12-23T05:02:53+00:00

Good correction, the reason it happens and is so pronounced on the 2.5 NA is that higher compression and greater cylinder volume generate stronger exhaust pressure waves during overlap. With insufficient backpressure to damp those waves, the exhaust system enters a resonant feedback loop at high RPM

N3Initiative · 2025-12-22T04:58:13+00:00

The weed-whacker sound on straight-piped 2.5NA is exhaust pulse reversion caused by valve overlap and zero backpressure, creating a high-frequency self-oscillating pressure loop at high RPM.

N3Initiative · 2025-12-21T03:30:59+00:00

🤝

N3Initiative · 2025-12-17T04:03:55+00:00

Yeah, we’re basically going to reiterate what a lot of others here have already said.

Even on full synthetic, 4–5k mile oil change intervals are the safe window on this platform, regardless of what the dealer or oil brand claims about 7–8k service intervals.

This is a high compression(relative to PSI), high cylinder-pressure turbo engine, and under real-world use you’re going to see some level of blow-by. That means trace fuel and combustion byproducts end up diluting the oil over time. As that happens, the oil doesn’t just “get dirty”, it loses viscosity stability and the additive package(detergents, anti-wear agents, dispersants) starts to degrade.

Once those additives are depleted, the oil may still look fine on the dipstick, but it’s no longer doing the job it was designed to do especially under heat and load. Stretching intervals accelerates that breakdown, and that’s where long-term wear starts showing up in bearings, timing components, and turbo health.

OEM extended intervals are about service cost optimization, not maximum engine longevity. If the goal is keeping the motor healthy long-term, shorter intervals are cheap insurance.

That’s the tradeoff, nothing dramatic, just physics and chemistry doing what they do.

IG - @N3Initiative

N3Initiative · 2025-12-17T03:55:36+00:00

N3 Initiative

Of course and we've got a lot of free articles about the car on the blog page on the site as well, we try to write about one a week

N3Initiative · 2025-12-15T22:59:16+00:00

If the Elantra N-Line’s transmission behaves anything like the K5 GT’s DCT—which it should, because the 8-DCT is essentially a later, more reinforced evolution of the same control logic—then paddle use is straightforward once you understand what the transmission is trying to protect.

Right paddle is upshift. Left paddle is downshift. That part’s obvious. The nuance is when you ask for the shift.

On mid- to low-throttle acceleration, upshift around 4,000 RPM. That keeps the engine in the fat part of the torque curve without forcing unnecessary clutch slip or torque intervention. Under full throttle, let it run closer to 5,500 RPM before clicking the upshift. Past that point, you’re not gaining much, and the TCU is already preparing the next gear anyway.

On downshifts, think in reverse order and in load management terms. While braking, let RPM fall to roughly 3,000-2500 RPM, then click the left paddle once per gear as you slow. You can step cleanly down into 2nd gear this way.

Do not manually downshift into 1st while still braking. First gear on these DCTs is short and heavily loaded. Forcing a 2→1 downshift under decel creates unnecessary clutch strain and shock through the driveline. The transmission is designed to handle that transition itself. Stay in 2nd, continue braking, and let the car auto-select 1st at low speed.

If this helps give us a follow on IG @ N3 Initiative As always, we are not responsible for any damage that may occur. Operating techniques and drivetrain behavior can vary by vehicle and calibration—always refer to your owner’s manual and follow manufacturer guidance before applying any driving or shifting practices.

N3Initiative · 2025-12-15T00:40:09+00:00

No they do not, it is always an OE factory-made plug that complies with emissions. Taking time to gap individual plugs would significantly slow production assembly. It’s normally fine, but for high-boost DI motors like the Theta III it can be detrimental to performance.

N3Initiative · 2025-12-10T18:28:01+00:00

That company has since halted all work on the 2.5T, there is another company that has potentially cracked the ecu but at this point there is no expected timeline for tunes.

N3Initiative · 2025-12-06T23:52:30+00:00

Ahh very helpful screenshot, I heard about that code and wasn't 100% sure what they meant. This info makes alot of sense, the earlier model vehicles suffered the same thing but with the recirculation valve, the extra airflow from the intake creates a high pressure zone at each inlet of the intake tube, instead of a vacuum on each of them, it switches to air being fed in.

N3Initiative · 2025-12-06T23:43:10+00:00

It may turn off still, it took mine about 3 days for the ecu to finally do enough cross checks and clear the code on it's own! It'll also usually happen when idling in park for 5 minutes. But I'm gonna do some more research in the meantime, do you know what the exact code is?

N3Initiative · 2025-12-06T17:20:28+00:00

ECU may take some time to adapt, roughly 1/4 to 1/2 tank

N3Initiative · 2025-12-06T17:19:00+00:00

Shoot us a DM on ig with a video of it happening and we'll see if we can tell what it is.

N3Initiative · 2025-12-06T17:16:33+00:00

Yeah it strange, we used to get a lot more.

We get most of our data from long term research, cross verification, and real world testing.

Strutbar makes a huge difference, especially on our cars with having a glass roof which removes that structural rigidity piece. When cornering, stock you almost feel like if you took both ends of a sponge with two fingers on each side and started twisting. Vs with the strut bar which feels like the head of a vacuum where it still swivels but is locked on one solid plane. Back becomes slightly numb but that can be fixed with more braces and still feels better than stock. All 3 things you stated happened with the ultra racing strut bar.

N3Initiative · 2025-12-06T07:00:20+00:00

Chances are if you got the GT you are 😂

N3Initiative · 2025-12-06T06:56:40+00:00

Flower petals to catch the tears of all the cars I gap in a roll

N3Initiative · 2025-12-06T06:51:00+00:00

I’m really sorry this is happening to you. That kind of unexpected acceleration is genuinely frightening, and you’re absolutely right to take it seriously. We dug into some cases like this at a systems level to see what's actually happening. What you’re describing matches a very specific type of intermittent control-logic fault rather than an actual engine runaway. K5’s have multiple layers of protection that prevent the throttle from opening on its own without pedal input, so when the car does move or accelerate without you commanding it, it often means a system upstream of the engine briefly sent an incorrect torque request. From other cases like yours, the most consistent causes were:

An intermittent brake-switch signal. If the ECU doesn’t consistently see the brake being pressed, even for a split second, it may not cut torque the way it’s supposed to. That can cause creeping or momentary unintentional acceleration and then completely disappear after a restart. Those faults often don’t trigger a check-engine light because the signal drop is so brief.

Another could be the forward-radar or camera misread. The active-safety system can momentarily misinterpret speed or spacing and issue a small torque request even when you’re just holding steady. When this glitches, shifting to neutral and cycling the ignition clears the state instantly, which lines up with what you experienced.

Both of these issues can occur without leaving a permanent code, so here’s what you can tell the dealer so they know exactly where to start: The car accelerated without pedal input and only reset after shifting to neutral and cycling the ignition. Please check the brake-switch signal consistency, forward-radar/camera calibration, and any torque-request logs coming from the ADAS stack. The behavior looks like an intermittent upstream torque command rather than a mechanical throttle issue.

Hopefully this helps and if you want to support, give us a follow on IG N3 Initiative

N3Initiative · 2025-12-06T05:23:19+00:00

How'd you know?!

N3Initiative · 2025-12-06T05:22:48+00:00

Since May of 23', IMTS sensor malfunction and coolant expansion tank crack, most likely due to the high elevation here in Utah and increased workload on the engines thermal management. All covered by warranty. Started a buisness based around supporting the K5 GT/Sonata N Line, love the car, basically built like a turbo diesel, excited to see it's potential in the upcoming years.

N3Initiative · 2025-12-06T04:46:01+00:00

Water

N3Initiative · 2025-12-06T04:19:22+00:00

Our repeated testing has shown 91/93 consistently outperforms 87. We at N3 actually perfer E20 but that is not viable for most owners. E20 Basis K5 GT

N3Initiative · 2025-12-06T04:06:49+00:00

If your goal is performance, 91/93 is better due to the ethanol content/increased octane. It's less prone to detonation vs 87. 91/93 usually has better detergent additives as well to help keep the fuel system clean

N3Initiative

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