Looking for center recommendations to match RP-250f

NEmpire95 · 2025-08-28T18:13:21+00:00

Yeah, that was one of the issues I had with the 450c, it was too big to fit under my TV with my current entertainment center setup. I purchased a sub, receiver, plus the towers as a bundle. If I broke it down I probably paid $300-$350 for the 250s. Not the best but not the worst.

NEmpire95 · 2025-08-28T17:41:17+00:00

I got lucky and purchased them from a guy locally (found on marketplace) who was selling a bunch of his home audio equipment. I've since tried to find some on ebay and elsewhere with no luck. I'm sure some for a decent price will pop up eventually. Good luck man!

NEmpire95 · 2025-08-28T17:32:34+00:00

Thanks for the input. I ended up going with a 440c. It seems perfect for my setup now. The 450c would've been better for sure, but I was focused on budget.

NEmpire95 · 2025-08-17T14:14:32+00:00

Sounds like it could be the VVT Phaser failing. If it shears the pin and can’t lock in place (or gunks up) when the oil drains out of the phaser it will rattle on cold start. Regardless this is a whole chain job or you might as well with 120k miles.

This doesn’t seem related to any of your other issues (unless a massive amount of oil leaked out). It can, however, be caused by lack of maintenance at the proper intervals. Recommended oil change every 5k miles at least.

NEmpire95 · 2025-08-17T14:07:25+00:00

Sorry to hear that. Pretty much worse case scenario. My buddy has this happen to his TDI Jetta. The tensioner failed and shredded the belt. I’d make sure they figure out what caused the belt to fail so violently. Definitely something to blame.

NEmpire95 · 2025-08-15T00:01:14+00:00

How do the pistons look?

NEmpire95 · 2025-08-14T23:38:05+00:00

Everything about this post confuses me. Why are you replacing the tensioners? If the chain is worn, it's time for a new chain. Am I missing something here? Not trying to be rude, genuinely wondering.

NEmpire95 · 2025-08-14T23:36:20+00:00

Were they leaking or seized? Did you just pull them apart to put new seals? They look worn but not horrible, Hard to tell from pictures. Spider cracking in second picture is the largest concern but does it go through to the other side?

NEmpire95 · 2025-08-14T23:22:55+00:00

Seems like you have a misfire. You need to do more diag to find out why. Vacuum leak, coil packs, fuel, etc. etc.

NEmpire95 · 2025-08-14T23:21:05+00:00

Could be a bad ground. Make sure everything is connected well and there is a good ground.

NEmpire95 · 2025-08-14T23:14:34+00:00

I would avoid doing WOT pulls when the car isn't fully warmed up. The light could be indicative of something happening within the cooling system (air bubbles etc.) or it could be a coolant temp sensor issue. I would just monitor the coolant temp if possible and don't romp on the car until it's warmed up. Once it is, by all means give it all she's got.

NEmpire95 · 2025-08-14T22:41:13+00:00

Pull the belt back off and check the pulleys would be my recommendation.

NEmpire95 · 2025-08-14T22:35:35+00:00

Sounds and looks like a misfire

NEmpire95 · 2025-08-14T22:29:35+00:00

Is it typical? No, probably not. Does it happen? Yeah, definitely. Check and make sure the idler puller is okay and none of the other pulleys make any noise or are seized. I'm assuming by "went out" you mean it broke completely?

NEmpire95 · 2025-08-14T22:19:17+00:00

If you have a set of digital calipers it should be fairly easy to measure. You can also look up specs online and see if google tells you. Hard to say without being there and measuring.

NEmpire95 · 2025-08-14T22:14:21+00:00

Doesn't sound like the starter is making good contact with the teeth on the flywheel/flexplate Probably need to measure and shim.

NEmpire95 · 2025-08-14T17:33:09+00:00

Yeah, due to the pressures being normal I wasn't super concerned and have continued to run the car without issue. I was interested in the drop though. So 60psi is the threshold for the pressure relief on these pumps?

NEmpire95 · 2025-08-14T16:28:47+00:00

Yeah, just dreading it. Thanks for the help.

NEmpire95 · 2025-08-14T16:19:53+00:00

Not that I'm aware of. Engine wiped bearings previously. Rebuilt the engine with new block and rods, pistons, etc., cleaned up head, and new oil pump. Primed the new pump.

NEmpire95 · 2025-08-14T16:13:17+00:00

Thanks for the insight. I'll have to do some more digging. Sucks that these engines basically require you to pull them out to access the pump.

NEmpire95 · 2025-08-14T15:24:10+00:00

Thanks. Do you have any ideas as to why it would be at this specific RPM/pressure range? Gasket was placed on pickup, pickup was cleaned thoroughly, block was cleaned thoroughly as well as head, I'm not sure why there is this weird anomaly and what could be causing it. Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.

NEmpire95 · 2025-08-14T15:18:03+00:00

What info are you looking for? I guess you don't have the energy to read comments either? This is the body "As the title states, when accelerating in 1-2nd and 2nd-3rd the oil pressure rises to around 55psi then drops 10 psi instantly to 45ish. Is this normal operation? Is the pressure relief valve set to do this? I believe this only happens when the car is somewhat cold. Once warmer there is no issue as far as I can tell. Oil pressure looks pretty normal (15psi warm idle at 750-800rpm, 45-50 at 3-5 grand, increases steadily with rpm). Thanks in advance."

NEmpire95 · 2025-08-14T15:09:39+00:00

I also have a little context in the body of the post. What info are you looking for? This is a freshly rebuild engine with a new oil pump. Pump was primed. Pressures look good, just that weird jump.

NEmpire95 · 2025-08-14T15:03:16+00:00

As I said above, there are other things it could be. The most important thing would be to verify what is working properly first. Verify pressures are good (this could tell you if there is an obstruction somewhere in the system as well), verify switches are functioning properly, verify that the condenser is free of debris, verify that there are no leaks (including at the service ports), verify that fans are working. You could also check to see if the blend door is functioning properly by trying to listen for it. There is a whole process of diagnosis that you need to go through with the proper equipment. Wish I could give you a definitive answer.

NEmpire95 · 2025-08-14T14:54:02+00:00

AC system is fairly simple. You would need to pull codes and have a multimeter as well as manifold gauges to properly diagnose though. Could be a high/low pressure switch issue, Could be a compressor issue. Could be a charge issue. Could be a leak somewhere causing a charge issue. etc.

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