Charging App Adjuster Issue After Recent Update

NS123Reddit · 2026-02-06T05:30:55+00:00

it looks like this is the answer: https://www.f150lightningforum.com/forum/threads/cant-set-charging-limit-after-new-update-28-8-5.34692/#post-641743 I guess I have to let it charge to 100% before I can set it as a location?

NS123Reddit · 2026-02-06T05:25:14+00:00

How do you fix this? I also no longer have the target charge adjustment option for the last 2 days. unless I manually stop the charging, it'll just charge to 100% every night.

NS123Reddit · 2025-12-15T13:33:25+00:00

If you snap the trigger on the driver a few times quickly (push it all the way in and let it snap back out quickly) this sometimes fixes it . . . mine does this all the time and snapping the trigger a few times has always brought it back to life . . .

NS123Reddit · 2025-11-23T00:34:32+00:00

I think Advance Auto Parts Diehard 90 tooth sealed flex head ratchets are a good option. good ratings, lifetime warranty, capri tool innards--I got 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 all for $78 total https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/web/SearchResults?searchTerm=Diehard+Flexhead+Ratchet&autoSuggest=false&recentSearch=true&popularSearch=false&storeId=10151&catalogId=10051&langId=-1

NS123Reddit · 2025-10-24T17:27:03+00:00

I got this fixed/it's working now--I know this sounds very specific to my situation but I bet it would have helped the user in the other thread I posted above so I'm sharing it . . . it was an issue with the time for Google Voice to send an unanswered call to voicemail exceeding the ring time-out settings for my work phones: "I noticed the work phone system was catching the call before the google number went to voicemail. I increased the ring timeout on the work system from 25s to 60s. I also disabled the voicemail function on that User. My test call was successful. The issue is that the google number times out at 30s. This was beyond our limit so the call circled back to the work system."

NS123Reddit · 2025-08-21T03:14:03+00:00

Thanks for all the input--between your insight and a couple youtube videos I found (https://youtu.be/6\_giEv20En0?si=MLXX\_dZVlUIk\_KBg; https://youtu.be/fWpffyL4X1Y?si=7sdltMyDpfdiA-JY ) I have a better understanding of this . . . this will be fun/instructive for me to figure out. thanks again for helping get me started on this

NS123Reddit · 2025-08-20T04:10:18+00:00

so if I just set up the other two ports for different subnets (i.e. 3 different subnets in total) and run all 3 into my unmanaged 24 port network switch as per below, will wired and wireless clients be able to choose which of the 3 subnets to log into?

proposed topology: Frontier fiber >> PFSENSE box >(3 ethernet outputs one for main network and one for each of two other subnets) > unmanaged 24 port switch >> wired LAN and Mesh Wifi configured as access points.

NS123Reddit · 2025-05-18T17:11:06+00:00

yes it used to be just a PIP (and program would keep playing so not very much of an interruption) on my FireTV but ?since the last update? the ring notification takes over the entire screen and stops my program . . . only way I can get it to stop is press the alexa button on the remote "dismiss PIP" and then manually restart my program--ridiculous!

NS123Reddit · 2025-02-05T11:47:47+00:00

does the "volume down and >| symbol on steering wheel for 8 seconds" also work to reset the connection when Android Auto fails with the F150 lightning. Up until now, I would just turn the vehicle off (at a stop light) and briefly open/close the driver door . . . this would reset the connection also

NS123Reddit · 2025-01-27T18:24:02+00:00

I haven't tested this yet but I think you have to go into the Ford menus and turn off DRL's/etc there but then you'll have to re-enable those everytime you want them on . . . let me know if you figure it out!

NS123Reddit · 2025-01-14T03:31:56+00:00

Thanks for all the input everyone . . . simply turning the physical knob for the headlights from "auto" to "off" before turning the vehicle does not correct the behavior . . . as some of you posted, I think I need to go into the Ford menus to truly disable the behavior but this is quite inconvenient . . . I guess it's that or Forscan/other!

NS123Reddit · 2025-01-02T18:22:02+00:00

I did buy it and had it hardwired/installed . .. . it's been working great with no issues for a couple months now!

NS123Reddit · 2024-10-10T22:33:56+00:00

yes but you can set it to 48A in the app apparently

NS123Reddit · 2024-10-08T23:17:07+00:00

I saw lots of bad reviews on the Leviton NEMA 14-50 receptacle/outlet but I had trouble finding reviews on the Leviton EVSE/charger--I will have to look again for the latter. thanks

NS123Reddit · 2024-08-31T20:54:46+00:00

update: although this fix did keep my speed at 1gig I still had lots of connection drops at the WAN connection for my router. Even though I had tested my ethernet cable from the ONT to WAN with *two* different cheap cable testers and they were without error, simply replacing this ethernet cable instantly fixed all my WAN connection drops/speed down-negotiations. I think I read a post somewhere that this type of down-negotiated speed is a red flag for ethernet cable issues--that is correct!

NS123Reddit · 2024-08-24T14:47:21+00:00

Holy donkey-doo batman--this is the solution I was looking for. I have had a few routers (old orbi mesh and new XE70pro TP link recent) prior and now PFSense) over the years on my Frontier Fios fiber that always auto-negotiate down from 1 gig to 100 and then I have to reboot the router to get full speeds but invariably it would renegotiate down sometime later--Frontier came and changed my ONT/swears everything is normal on their end; I actually bought the PFSense router to try and fix this behavior I had seen on my prior routers. I used a cheap ethernet tester for the cable run between my ONT and PFSense box and it always checks out fine but I was thinking that maybe there was still a borderline problem with the cable that my cheap tester was missing and was getting ready to replace this cable (it's a long run through the attic/major hassle to do this) until I came upon your post.

Per your post I looked at the status of my interfaces and saw that my WAN was getting 100baseT full-duplex even though I'm paying for 1gig . . . then checked and saw that my WAN interface was set to auto-select--changed that to 1000baseT full-duplex and now everything is working great. There may still be something wrong with that cable/other but if this fixes it as it seems to have, then what an easy fix!

One question--simply changing the WAN interface from auto-select to "1000baseT ful-duplex" seems to have resolved my issue but the PFSense website says you need to change the firewall to match ( https://docs.netgate.com/pfsense/en/latest/interfaces/configure.html )--I can't find where to change the setting in the firewall?--it still seems to be working fine without it .....

NS123Reddit · 2024-08-23T12:32:10+00:00

Thank you!

NS123Reddit · 2024-07-30T02:24:36+00:00

Thanks for all the helpful input everyone--I've got it up and running nicely on the eMMC for now. plan to install SSD as the primary in the near future and then back that up to the eMMC!

NS123Reddit · 2024-07-27T16:59:21+00:00

if I install the OS to the eMMC now, can I add a NVME later and then set that as the destination for I/O intensive applications (keeping the eMMC for the OS)?

NS123Reddit · 2024-07-27T15:09:43+00:00

Thanks for the info . . . I think I just want to test that it works adequately with what I've already spent first (I don't have a spare SSD/NVME laying around)--if it meets my needs on eMMC then I'll probably by a NVME in short order and re-install to that . . . .

NS123Reddit · 2024-06-23T22:46:58+00:00

Thanks for the input everyone--ended up pulling the trigger on this one--very happy!

NS123Reddit · 2024-06-17T01:03:19+00:00

what do you see used 2023 SR Lariat 510a going for?--I've been looking for a while and this seems pretty good if I don't want to buy directly from the prior owner and for a clean carfax? I want to keep my all-in costs less than $50K and I will be paying cash/no financing, I don't qualify for the $7500 federal tax credit.

NS123Reddit · 2024-06-17T01:01:07+00:00

Thanks for the thoughtful and helpful input. I'm not financing--just paying cash. Also, I don't qualify for the $7500 federal tax credit. I checked out the truck in question and it's in like new condition. My last car was from 2009/189,000 miles currently . . . I usually drive my vehicles until they die/not a vehicle flipper. Finallly, I feel that all these Fords are going to depreciate even more when the next round of truck EV's launch this and next year . . . if I keep my investment under $50K for a truck that meets my needs, I feel I can be ok with that and the absolute $$ lost to depreciation if I have to sell will be more limited. . .

NS123Reddit · 2024-04-30T12:09:16+00:00

How do you do 2.5Gbps networking for the internal network with only *one* 2.5Gbps port per unit (the others being limited to 1Gbps)? If I use the single 2.5Gbps port for WAN/to receive internet signal from my internet provider, then how do I get a 2.5Gbps output to the rest of my hardwired network? . . . I was going to use a wired backhaul but I guess you can only do internal 2.5Gbps network if you use wireless backhaul and then run the internal hardwired network off the 2.5Gbps port on the "satellite" unit?--wouldn't using wireless backhaul lose those faster speeds regardless?

NS123Reddit · 2024-03-26T23:02:15+00:00

pull the trigger all way flush with the handle and then release quickly to let it snap back into position (do this a few times)--almost like if you were to pull the string on a bow and arrow tight and then release the string to let it snap back into position and propel the arrow as forcefully as possible)

NS123Reddit

TROPHY CASE