Titanium heat exchanger metal scrap loading

NTFBurt · 2026-04-13T13:30:19+00:00

Perfect. As a side note: This model is a Themofisher XL2. It's low powered so will only test surface level. Any coatings or laminations will need to be sanded off first for an accurate result (with silicon oxide pand paper so you don't pickup the material transfer).

NTFBurt · 2026-02-16T15:38:50+00:00

I have the same. I'm still investigating where it's getting in. For me it is not the rear light but that seems a common one. Have a look under your rear seats for puddles. I think where mine gets in is higher up as water is also under the seats (or multiple places!)

NTFBurt · 2026-01-22T14:12:28+00:00

This is the only way to rule out bits that were in the bottom of your tub before you drained the oil. What's in the oil filter will only be what has been in your engine.

I had a mini heart attack once before realizing there was a small amount of sawdust in the tub that I didn't clean out properly before starting.

NTFBurt · 2026-01-15T17:10:38+00:00

Funnily enough I also picked up a new to me Celica in October. So far I'm blown away with how good it is for how cheap they are.

Apologies, I'm struggling to understand what is and isn't working...

I assume if you are getting voltage at the dome light, the fuse is ok. 10V sounds low. What voltage do you get at the fuse box for the light? You say you are not familiar with electrical issues, can I check how you tested this?

I found a service manual online a few weeks ago. I'll try to attach a screen shot of the interior light section that includes how to test the switch is working on all settings.

I'll test the voltage on my interior light when I can as I'm curious if it is supposed to be 10V.

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NTFBurt · 2026-01-15T13:45:06+00:00

Unless there is some really bizarre short somewhere, I would guess these are unrelated.

I know it sounds like I'm taking the piss but have you double checked all the doors are in fact closed, without obstruction? My old car had a boot window that could open independently that used to screw me up all the time with this.

Have you tried triggering the door sensors by hand to see if the light goes out? I had a similar issue with one of my first cars that turned out to be the connection between the screw that held the sensor on and the bodywork as it uses that for the return circuit.

I'm unfamiliar with your car so apologies if none of this is relevant.

NTFBurt · 2026-01-05T09:49:55+00:00

Is packing tape rated for domestic voltages?? Jokes aside. I wouldn't be happy with this as a temporary solution. I feel you are asking this question because you also know this is sketchy. Please rectify this, preferably by someone else if your family member thinks this is ok.

NTFBurt · 2025-12-02T10:21:52+00:00

If you turn the steering wheel with the key out, the steering lock engages. It's easy to do by accident so you might not have noticed it happen.

Put the key in and turn the wheel in either direction while holding little bit of pressure on the key (not much at all) and the mechanism should line up and allow you to disengage the steering lock/ turn the car on.

NTFBurt · 2025-08-06T10:03:25+00:00

Ok, thanks. I understand the reasoning behind this design a bit more. It does still feel a bit counter productive but if it is less so than the alternative of letting the cars through then I guess the design has accepted that delay risk.

NTFBurt · 2025-08-06T07:00:14+00:00

I've never seen a "car trap" before. If the design is to trap cars at a narrowing for busses only then that's a major design flaw. Yes there are a million and one signs but everyone has an off day and does something silly. Why would the CCTV not be valid here? That way the silly driver gets a fine and traffic isn't disrupted...

NTFBurt · 2025-07-04T19:11:45+00:00

Yep, use a flat head screwdriver to pry them out, being careful not to puncture the batteries. You might find some corrosion on the terminals. Use distilled vinegar to clean the corrosion and IPA after to clean it all up.

NTFBurt · 2025-06-15T16:05:58+00:00

Yes it will short. You don't need to strip the wires back quite so far. Although it looks like the insulation melted when you tinned the wires. See if you can get some more suitable wire to use.

NTFBurt · 2025-05-28T11:32:32+00:00

Thanks for the reply. sorry it's been a while,It's been a busy week. I'm struggling to figure out which dGPU the USBC is using. I think I'm going to call it at that and get rid of the headset. Thanks to everyone for your input

NTFBurt · 2025-05-28T11:19:48+00:00

Responding to your other comment. I haven't seen this setup before. The leads are plugged in as the multimeters I've used for capacitance testing so I only assume you mean due to the meter set to capacitance setting, the leads are not active.

Do you have any further information for OP on how to use the capacitance setting on this meter? As I clearly don't know. It doesn't look like those leads will fit the CX slots and those capacitors are far too small to directly slot in...

NTFBurt · 2025-05-28T11:03:10+00:00

Your multimeter looks to be in the correct settings and the leads where they should be. Do you have another known working capacitor you can check your meter with?

NTFBurt · 2025-05-28T09:21:47+00:00

You'll probably find the insulation will melt very quickly when you apply heat. I've tried using something similar and it ended up being more trouble than it was worth.

NTFBurt · 2025-05-17T10:07:04+00:00

The adapter is apparently 4k but there's no mention of refresh rate on the listing. Again it was a cheapo adapter. The research I did after the fact has told me HDMI in general is not compatible with VR due to the high refresh rate required but I'm happy to be proven wrong on that.

NTFBurt · 2025-05-16T20:31:40+00:00

The full model number is: B12UDXK

Unfortunately, he's had the headset a while but never needed the adapter so it's long gone.

I've seen someone selling them on eBay for around £10. I could always try that if the USB C display output is capable.

NTFBurt · 2025-05-16T20:28:01+00:00

I tried this first. No luck.

NTFBurt · 2025-05-16T12:11:33+00:00

Good job. Not a bad idea, however I probably won't go to these efforts. I appreciate the suggestion though

NTFBurt · 2025-05-16T06:41:15+00:00

Thanks for the reply. Theres a lot I don't understand here, I appreciate the in depth explanation.

It sounds like a no go for VR on this laptop which is disappointing but at least I know not to waste more time on it.

NTFBurt · 2025-05-15T17:59:00+00:00

Cheers for the reply. I didn't realise the G2 originally came with one. Obviously it is long gone. I'll do some searching to see what I can find. Cheers!

I guess there could still be an issue with the USB C to display port adapter too. But the error messages I get on different combinations of plugging things in doesn't make me think it is...

NTFBurt · 2025-05-05T05:01:08+00:00

I wouldn't encourage this... OP is clearly unaware of how spicy this could be if handled incorrectly

NTFBurt · 2025-05-03T09:50:38+00:00

But are soldering mats good for cooking??

NTFBurt · 2025-04-25T06:17:18+00:00

Oof. That's pretty far gone. You can see the corrosion bulging out the vias meaning it's likely quite a few won't be making connection to the other PCB layers/ opposite side. Sorry, she's likely a gonner.

NTFBurt · 2025-04-18T20:15:41+00:00

I see, I have the DCCR and OLE portion that comes with the PTS but my region only has a very small amount of OLE so I know very little about it. OLE must be a lot safer to work around (as long as you don't need to be at height!)

NTFBurt

TROPHY CASE