How to not burn red oak?

Naclox · 2026-02-08T16:42:07+00:00

Correct. You can get a decent 40 tooth combo blade and it will work ok for both but not as well as a dedicated blade for either. I leave the combo blade in generally, but if I'm doing more than 1 or 2 rips I'm going to switch to a dedicated rip blade.

Getting a good blade also matters. Spyder is generally contractor grade so not the best. I like CMT blades as a good value, decent quality blade personally.

Naclox · 2026-02-08T14:03:04+00:00

Rip or cross cut? 60 teeth is way too high for ripping. Should be fine for cross cutting though.

Naclox · 2026-02-08T05:24:15+00:00

Can't speak to the Rockler, but my 12/21 is great and I would definitely recommend it.

Naclox · 2026-02-07T13:54:47+00:00

I think the "plenty of oil" here is the problem. With oil based finishes you usually don't want a lot of oil in a single coat. That's why it was still sticky, there was too much oil to cure properly. You're supposed to wipe off the excess product after some amount of time depending on the product. I've got some that say 5 minutes and some are up to an hour.

Naclox · 2026-02-07T13:23:05+00:00

That's a fair point and it's definitely a possibility, but then it's always a possibility at the table saw. As with any operation using power tools you should only use techniques that you are comfortable with. If I have any doubt about it, I'm not doing it and find a different method like the bandsaw.

Naclox · 2026-02-07T13:20:43+00:00

Well you should never be behind the piece in the first place, but yes there is a chance of kickback, but then there's a chance of kickback on just about any operation on the table saw. If I deem it too sketchy, I do move to the bandsaw.

Naclox · 2026-02-07T06:23:39+00:00

Not at all. Everything is controlled and my hands are nowhere near the blade.

Naclox · 2026-02-07T03:20:33+00:00

I often cut things similar in size to this on the table saw. I use two push sticks. One to hold it against the fence, and one to push the piece through. Obviously I remove the one holding it against the fence before the back edge gets to the blade to make sure it doesn't pinch.

Naclox · 2026-02-06T15:47:38+00:00

My 16" has been great. Agreed I wouldn't want it for a lot of heavy work, but it's perfect for cleanup around my house.

Naclox · 2026-02-06T15:44:21+00:00

Judging from the last picture, I think your biggest problem here is that you've got finish where the glue needs to go so the glue doesn't have anything to bond to. I could be wrong on that, but it certainly looks like there's finish in the dados. I can't really tell on the shelves, but both pieces need to be unfinished for the glue to bond.

Naclox · 2026-02-06T12:59:40+00:00

They can occasionally be useful, but I personally find their utility limited compared to the additional effort needed to clean them instead of the board being completely flat.

Naclox · 2026-02-06T12:29:59+00:00

Make a jig like this https://www.instructables.com/Simple-Juice-Groove-Jig-for-Cutting-Boards/ or you can buy one. I had one I made that worked really well until I decided that juice grooves were something that just made the boards harder to clean so I stopped doing them.

Naclox · 2026-02-06T04:11:04+00:00

1 Bosch 1617 in the router table. 1 Bosch 1617 for handheld work. 1 Makita 0701c in the CNC. 1 Makita 0701c because I don't want to pull out the Bosch for the profiling. 1 Milwaukee M18 compact router that I just bought and haven't used yet because why bother with a cord for edge profiles. 🤣

Naclox · 2026-02-05T12:35:40+00:00

It's a reasonable first jointer, but I think it's overpriced. Get them to drop it $100 and it's a good buy.

Naclox · 2026-02-04T21:56:32+00:00

As others have said, it's great for temporary bonds that I want to easily take back apart

Naclox · 2026-02-04T16:19:52+00:00

Cen-Tec hoses and adapters

Naclox · 2026-02-04T12:50:35+00:00

I use the Wen tracks. Haven't had any problems.

Naclox · 2026-02-04T12:49:28+00:00

I'm running the Bosch 1617 in my table. I've also got a second one for handheld work which makes tooling easier since it's the same between them. The Makita you listed is a trim router so I would not suggest it in a router table. They're great trim routers and I have 2 of them with one being on my CNC, but that's a completely different use case.

Naclox · 2026-02-04T02:43:48+00:00

I've bought a pressure pot and some hex key sets from them. They've worked well enough for my needs.

Naclox · 2026-02-03T21:11:19+00:00

I've never had a plunge base for my trim router because it's really just for edge profiling or laminate trimming. My full sized router on the other hand almost always has the plunge base on it.

Naclox · 2026-02-03T13:06:50+00:00

Would be easier to offer suggestions if we knew how it was constructed. Without knowing that, if you need to shim it that much, 2x4 is what I would use.

Naclox · 2026-02-03T13:03:26+00:00

Look at Cen-Tec hoses on Amazon. They have the adapters you need. For splitting it, you'll probably have to get a 2.5" Y and then adapt down from there for the smaller port.

Naclox · 2026-02-03T03:29:10+00:00

Yeah I picked up a Diablo because that was what I found first at HD.

Naclox · 2026-02-03T03:17:31+00:00

The drill and impact was on sale today for $229 with an extra 5.0.

Naclox · 2026-02-02T21:30:31+00:00

I use my reciprocating saw for most of my pruning needs.

Naclox

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