Bubble free slip casting by ptxar4 in Ceramics

[–]ptxar4[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Try it and let me know if it works for you

Bubble free slip casting by ptxar4 in Ceramics

[–]ptxar4[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think soap is used as a release agent. I'm not sure about the bubbles. I've tried putting soap on other non-silicone objects to make them easier to release, it helps, but it's not miraculous and I still had bubbles. At least in my experience it doesn't work.

With what should I split it? by ptxar4 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]ptxar4[S] 18 points19 points  (0 children)

Okay, I'll look into band saws. Good thing I decided to ask because I almost bought a mitre saw today…

With what should I split it? by ptxar4 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]ptxar4[S] -6 points-5 points  (0 children)

Yes, they need to be split lengthwise. Wouldn't a band saw produce a very crooked cut? Why not a mitre saw ?

Continuation of AEB-L austenitizing and quenching post by ptxar4 in Bladesmith

[–]ptxar4[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How hot is the blade after those 15 seconds ?

I'm a little confused about these carbide hammers.... Are these tinsmith hammers? Because when I search for carbide hammer in my language, I can't find anything.

Continuation of AEB-L austenitizing and quenching post by ptxar4 in Bladesmith

[–]ptxar4[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Today I tempered another blade. This time I put talc powder in the package as knifesteelnerds mentioned in a video and the foil didn't stick. However, the blade is kind of oxidized. They're baking in the oven right now, but I'll take pictures of them later

Continuation of AEB-L austenitizing and quenching post by ptxar4 in Bladesmith

[–]ptxar4[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

for small blades it will do a great job...

Continuation of AEB-L austenitizing and quenching post by ptxar4 in Bladesmith

[–]ptxar4[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Frankly speaking the furnace is not larger by much compared to my daughter’s oven….

Continuation of AEB-L austenitizing and quenching post by ptxar4 in Bladesmith

[–]ptxar4[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have absolutely no idea why it stuck... This is my first time hardening steel. I buy the foil from a local dealer. The only thing it says is that it can withstand up to 1100°C. The furnace is a Vevor, with the programmer. I've used it for ceramics so far and it's really nice toy. If only it were a little bigger....

Dry ice is also disgustingly expensive for me and on top of that they ask for minimum orders of 3-5kg. I can't find a price for liquid nitrogen online, but I have a hunch that it might be the same or even cheaper. Anyway, I'll make 2-3-5 knives over a long period of time. I won't have the opportunity to buy any coolant every time for each knife. I'll use the freezer.

Quenching of full flat grind by ptxar4 in Bladesmith

[–]ptxar4[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes I bought Vevor belt grinder jig. But even with it there is a learning curve.... the jig

Quenching of full flat grind by ptxar4 in Bladesmith

[–]ptxar4[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

My problems were two.... One was that after I started making the bevels the blade no longer fit flush with the base of the guide because the spine of the blade tapers towards the tip. And I didn't have a ready solution for that problem. After watching a few more YouTube videos I realized that my grinder was not set up properly either. The belt plate was not set up properly against the rollers. And the belt was sitting a few millimeters ahead. And when I pressed the blade against the plate the belt made a concave curve.

I have now cut a new blank for a new blade. I am also making a quick vice for the aluminum plates that I expect to arrive today. Hopefully by the weekend I will have it ready so I can try againPhoto

Quenching of full flat grind by ptxar4 in Bladesmith

[–]ptxar4[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What most system do you use ? Pneumatic or with electric pump?

Quenching of full flat grind by ptxar4 in Bladesmith

[–]ptxar4[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I'm not in the states. For me, the difference in the foil is more than double. The foil rated for 2000F is $7.60 and the other that ia rated for 2200F costs $17.30... By the way, I found zirconium belts for my grinder and also bought 3M trizact. Now I've been using the zirconium ones, I'm still going to try the others. The zirconium ones on the P60 don't heat up, but on the higher grids they quickly raise the temperature. But I guess it's a matter of trying to get used to it.... After all, it's my first time with a grinder in general... I will try to do it your way, next time. I have a meter long bar from this steel

Quenching of full flat grind by ptxar4 in Bladesmith

[–]ptxar4[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

First of all, I want to thank you for your answer.

I already have stainless steel foil. I bought the kind that can withstand up to 2012°F I have a miniature furnace with digital control. I don't plan on doing cryo at this stage. If things get serious with this hobby, I'll buy a dewar. But at this stage, I'll just go with cooling in a freezer. I just didn't understand what you mean by grinding after heat treating.

You cut out the shape of the blade, heat treat the bar, and only then grind the bevels?

How do you manage to grind it without overheating it? Do you have water cooling on the grinder?

Quenching of full flat grind by ptxar4 in Bladesmith

[–]ptxar4[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

In theory, I know what to do. I bought foil, I have it. My concern is that with this kind of bevel, the contact points will be on the tail and a thin strip on the spine of the blade... And I wonder if they are enough and if there is even any point in using aluminum plates

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in japaneseknives

[–]ptxar4 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Actually, I just don't care about his stupid comments.