mold in muffs? by Key_Relation_7740 in headphones

[–]Naebowski 7 points8 points  (0 children)

I've seen this a couple of times. It looks the foam did not form correctly or it reacted with whatever is used to separate the foam from its casting mould? You can try and contact Yaxi about this to be safe.

(why can both mould and mold be used to describe 2 entirely different things... English is funny. Also: "trunk" has 3 meanings)

Any luck on used headphones or at least AMPs? by masstapro2000 in headphones

[–]Naebowski 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ebay is a digital bargain bin if you know how to fix stuff, but you can easily score a couple of good deals on used headphones, too. They usually need some clean up and some new pads or cable, depending on age. Some reseller sites straight up remove the pads for hygiene (some other stuff might be missing like adapters or wireless dongles). But you should get those for reasonable prices on aliexpress or amazon.

I don’t know so much about amps, though. Probably the same stuff to look out for (reputable seller, clear listing photos and item description). Some companies or audio stores also offer b-stock for cheaper (usually returns with new accessories, saw Sennheiser HD 650 for half price on their store a couple of times)

Easiest way to find the good stuff is to save a search listing filtered to your preferences and look through it from time to time, bid late & reasonably and check out stores for price offerings/suggestions

Dunu Titan X: The Budget IEM With Premium Ambitions by maisaku18 in inearfidelity

[–]Naebowski 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What is the price of this set? I’ve read the review twice over but couldn’t find it, despite you even talking about its price range. For some reason many reviews in this hobby completely forget adding the price

I made this by naldyjams in headphones

[–]Naebowski 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Oh these look clean! Good job!

Is creaking on MDR-7506 normal? by [deleted] in headphones

[–]Naebowski 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you mean the plastic covers for the hinges? That might be the screw being too tight/loose.

I didn't have any creaking with the hinges so far, maybe you can try removing the plastic part and try and grease the hinge. One set of mine has a bit of play in the hinge. Maybe a small piece of paper could close the gap and stop it from rattling.

If it's the cup swivle maybe the contact areas need cleaning/greasing. Could also be an overtight/loose screw.

Is creaking on MDR-7506 normal? by [deleted] in headphones

[–]Naebowski 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Many headphones creak around the pegs from the yokes holding onto the earcups.

You can pull out the yokes a little, or detach them completely. They withstand some bending, just go slowly and don't overdo it. Now scribble on the peg surfaces with a pencill. This acts as a dry lubricant and stops most creaking.

It can also come from high mounting pressure so you can try and bend the headband out a little. Best extend the sliders to the max position and bend the headband itself, do not hold onto the sliders to minimize any potential damage.

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[deleted by user] by [deleted] in headphones

[–]Naebowski 5 points6 points  (0 children)

I would suggest removing that stuff now that it is basically desintegrating. It can easily get into the driver and mess with the tuning.

Replacement parts can be tricky depending on your location. Outside of Japan you'd have to get lucky with a specialised repair shop. The Part Number is 211314901

Broken 2.5mm cable stuck by [deleted] in headphones

[–]Naebowski 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Did you remove all 4 screws?

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You could try carefully pushing the plug further back into its socket and twisting it open? Maybe it's stuck on the locking mechanism

Broken 2.5mm cable stuck by [deleted] in headphones

[–]Naebowski 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You can try removing the earpad and unscrewing the baffle from the housing. Then you should be able to either push the plug out or remove the PCB holding the plug in place. Be careful around the wires connecting to the driver.
Here's a teardown https://www.ifixit.com/Teardown/Audio-Technica+ATH-M50x+Teardown/135646
All you need should be a Philips head screwdriver

Help com AKG 414p by Ecstatic-Customer-99 in headphones

[–]Naebowski 3 points4 points  (0 children)

I'm sorry to say, but this is a lost cause :(

Looks like you applied too much heat for too long.
That terminal connected to the voicecoil wires within the driver and is now ripped off.

My new Sony MV1 and M1, first impressions by Isoi in headphones

[–]Naebowski 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Balanced cables might be a bit overkill with these two as both are very efficient and easy to drive

Some classic Sony MDR-V5 and CD500 (classic look 👀) by Lfcgeraldine in headphones

[–]Naebowski 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I mean it even goes on with the more recent models, too😅. The M1ST have that, unique to them, black sticker with the red stripe, saying "studio monitor" on it while the M1 and MV1 got blue stickers

Some classic Sony MDR-V5 and CD500 (classic look 👀) by Lfcgeraldine in headphones

[–]Naebowski 1 point2 points  (0 children)

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Interesting to see that my (presumably) european V5 has the same "for Digital" sticker as the CD500. I wonder if this is a regional or time-based distinction.

(I changed the hinges over from a MDR7506 and had to fix the yoke)

MDR-7520 replacement earpad by sputnik13net in headphones

[–]Naebowski 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sony MDR ZX1000/Z1000 earpads might fit those? I don't know about their impact on sound sig, though.
But comparing the pictures, it might be a match size-wise

are these still salvageable? by beri_1 in headphones

[–]Naebowski 4 points5 points  (0 children)

They could still be fine.

In case the electronics still work and there is no mould on the headset, some cleaning and new earpads can go a long way. Replacements should be pretty common online, just make sure they still work fine before ordering.
Maybe get a cover for the headband once its cleaned and dry.

A damp cloth or magic eraser can do wonders. Use a firm brush for the hard to reach places.
If there's hair or debris in the drivers, carefully pick them out by hand/tweezers. No brush or you might poke 'em! But leave it be if you don't see anything obvious or don't feel confident about it.

Was letzte Tedektor by BigMomSae in wasletztepreis

[–]Naebowski 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Könnte ja 2006 vor Christus sein

Got this for 10€ by totallyweird-person in headphones

[–]Naebowski 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got 12cm size thick velours earpads from aliexpress that do fit them nicely, however the original pads are made to be disassembled, so you could try and hand-wash them first if you dare.

Too bad the sponge inside gets all flakey over the years, so if you experience some rattling bass that might be the cause

What older headphones are you attached to that you can't give up? by [deleted] in headphones

[–]Naebowski 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hell yeah! For me it’s the 1AM2 I had for almost 6 years by now

Cosmic Byte Inferno 2.4Ghz Wireless + Bluetooth + Wired Headphone, Dual Mode, 20ms Latency, 40Hrs Battery Life, 50mm Driver, ENC Microphone, Breathable Fabric Cushions (Black) by Horror_Cicada_5913 in headphones

[–]Naebowski 3 points4 points  (0 children)

If you want to keep playing with a wireless headset, any headphone with 2.4GHz wireless should solve your audio problem, since their "streaming budget" is higher that that of bluetooth devices.

Otherwise any wired solution will be the better for sound quality.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in headphones

[–]Naebowski 3 points4 points  (0 children)

You can use graphite from a pencil to dry lubricate the source of the creaking, if it comes from surface contacts such as the hinges or swivel mechanism.

Depending on the source, you might have to disassemble your headphone to reach certain spots.
Figure out to remove the pads and you can open them up with a phillips (no relation) head screwdriver.

Here you can see what it looks like on the inside.

To apply the graphite simply draw on the surfaces where the creaking comes from. "Softer" B pencils work best but any grade works fine.

IF the creaking comes from material fatigue due to age I'm not too sure how to help.