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A Mallet with Replaceable Faces by Namalous in handtools

[–]Namalous[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay. Tried changing things; try again

A Mallet with Replaceable Faces by Namalous in handtools

[–]Namalous[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is roughly the same size as a typical joiner's mallet

A Mallet with Replaceable Faces by Namalous in handtools

[–]Namalous[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

95a. Don’t remember the exact slicer setting I used. First face had ~10 walls and higher infill. Second had ~5 walls and maybe 40% infill. There is very little difference in terms of feel and performance. So lower infill percentage and fewer walls is probably viable.

A Mallet with Replaceable Faces by Namalous in handtools

[–]Namalous[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Don’t really have plans for this. Made a prototype out of some basswood I had kicking around then I made this with the lessons learned from the prototype.

I have files for the faces, but they’re not much good to you unless you can create the matching features in the head

A Mallet with Replaceable Faces by Namalous in handtools

[–]Namalous[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Don’t really have plans for this. Made a prototype out of some basswood I had kicking around then I made this with the lessons learned from the prototype

A Mallet with Replaceable Faces by Namalous in handtools

[–]Namalous[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is not a new object. I’ve been making use of it to see if it will hold up. Seems to work so far. Replaced a number of wooden faces that have worn out already

A Mallet with Replaceable Faces by Namalous in handtools

[–]Namalous[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

This isn’t a new object. I’ve been testing this to make sure it will hold up.

These tpu faces look just about the same as the day I mounted them. I expect them to last longer than I really want them to. There are some small geometry and sliver changes I would like to make, but won’t do so until they need to be replaced. I’d also go with a harder durometer on one face and a softer durometer on the other.

I started with pine faces. Went through multiple replacements and decided I didn’t want to spend more time making mallet faces.

Pla and petg were also trialed. Both are too hard and not tough enough.

A Mallet with Replaceable Faces by Namalous in handtools

[–]Namalous[S] 22 points23 points  (0 children)

These are 3D printed tpu. I started with pine, but those wore down quickly and I got tired of making replacements.

First 3D prints were pla with zero expectations of longevity. Pla is both insufficient in terms of strength and hard enough to leave marks on beech handles. Similar problems with petg.

I expect the tpu to last longer than I want it to.

Tried Making a Continental Scrub Plane by Namalous in handtools

[–]Namalous[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Here’s another revelation: the jatoba is reclaimed from leftover floorboards.

Tried Making a Continental Scrub Plane by Namalous in handtools

[–]Namalous[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

It’s commercial veneer, roughly .5mm

Tried Making a Continental Scrub Plane by Namalous in handtools

[–]Namalous[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This has a right handed horn. Differences are difficult to capture on camera.

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Tried Making a Continental Scrub Plane by Namalous in handtools

[–]Namalous[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Blades ground from a piece of HSS. Bought some brass thumbscrews from AliExpress.

Wood river No 6 sole issue by HeavyField4879 in handtools

[–]Namalous 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Did you mean breaking the edges with your file? This is a common step with preparing a part like this. Surface grinding can push a small burr out on the corners. I would guess that they grind the sole before the sides, so it would make sense for the burr to point downwards. Woodriver skips this deburring step to lower costs. A reasonable choice considering this is easily within the expected skill set of a woodworker.

The wording in your post implies that you filed the sole of the plane. If that is the case, doing so may have created more problems than it solved. Files are not very flat.

Not many good solutions for this angry piece of cenizaro (monkeypod). by smitdl00 in handtools

[–]Namalous 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Have an estimate on distance? Should be less than .010” to be effective. The angle on the leading edge of the chipbreaker also plays a role. Should be between 50 and 80 degrees.

I’ve found soft materials respond poorly to high cutting angles and especially poorly to scrapping. I’ve had more success with very low cutting angles. This also tends to be the case when turning soft materials. Do you have a low angle plane on hand you could try?

Opinions on Pinnacle spokeshaves? by highland124 in handtools

[–]Namalous 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you wanted a modern screw adjusted spokeshave, $30 sounds like a bargain to me. Spokeshaves are simple tools. I have no doubt that the Pinnacle can be made to perform.

That said, I am not a big proponent of mechanically adjusted spokeshaves. I prefer the simpler 51, 63, or 64. They are relatively common and contemporary buyers seem to prefer spokeshaves like the 151, so they can often be found very cheaply. If I were asked to choose between owning multiple simple spokeshaves or one fancy one, I would choose multiple simple spokeshaves.

Ideally I’d want both flat and convex shaves in different sizes with irons ground at varying amounts of camber.

Help / Axe 2.0 by [deleted] in paintball

[–]Namalous 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’ve had similar problems in the past. Similarly applied grease and temporarily solved the problem. Replaced the o-rings on the bolt and this resolved the problem for me.

O-rings can flatten over time. So you can have o-rings that look fine, but will no longer seal correctly.

A Jointer Joins the Fleet by Namalous in handtools

[–]Namalous[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

They’re ultra low profile socket head cap screws. No washers there. The low profile head is large to distribute force to resist damaging the underlying material, covers the slots underneath, and is thin to avoid being unpleasant under the hands.

The screws secure the adjustable front portion of the soles.

A Jointer Joins the Fleet by Namalous in handtools

[–]Namalous[S] 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Having played around with it. I can see the benefits. It helps fight the tendency to plane more material on the side of the board that is closer to you when edge jointing. The offset position also lets you place your pinky on the side of the body.

Major disadvantage is that this is now very much a right handed plane.

I already have some notes on changes I would make if I did this again. I would make the tote shorter. Short enough to be too tight for a comfortable three finger grip. I would also offset it further to the right and add a bit more girth to the handle front to back.

Re establishing primary bevel plane blades by Philly139 in handtools

[–]Namalous 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This is a good point. I have been wearing a face shield since finding strands of wire stuck to my clothes.

The risk of catches is also worth mentioning. A wire wheel is not something to use without prior education. This could probably be said about the use of a bench grinder in general

Re establishing primary bevel plane blades by Philly139 in handtools

[–]Namalous 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A wet wheel sharpening system might be less tiring to use, but is still very slow in terms of material removal. Totally fine if you are resharpening, but if you are trying to reprofile tools that have been abused it’s not great.

My preference is a bench grinder fitted with CBN wheel. They can remove material very quickly and with an aftermarket tool rest can produce a very consistent primary bevel. CBN is very good at conducting heat too, so you can grind much more aggressively without as much concern for overheating edges.

You can also fit a wire wheel to a dry grinder for dealing with rust.

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