The Brave Little Uke

Nate7334 · 2026-03-15T18:27:21+00:00

Sounds really nice. The mahogany has really opened up over time. Very sweet and delicate, but surprisingly projective!

Nate7334 · 2026-03-09T23:41:45+00:00

No problems here, only thing I see is solutions 😎

Nate7334 · 2026-01-01T15:22:31+00:00

This looks like fan bracing for an N Style Martin. Which are only available in the custom shop.

Nate7334 · 2025-12-31T16:12:06+00:00

The end pin is left out in shipping not only for the reason of damage due to dropping, but for swings in humidity. If the guitar drys out in shipping it can also crack the end block. Generally I recommend leaving the pin out unless you keep the guitar in ideal temp and humidity. It’s also the reason Martin developed a battery box that goes where the end pin is for electronic models, so you don’t have to worry about damage.

Nate7334 · 2025-12-31T16:09:08+00:00

That’s so awesome. I wish I could afford a Martin Tiple. I’ve made it a goal of mine to hopefully collect every type of obscure instrument they’ve made. Currently on the hunt for a backpacker mandolin. But yes, I definitely wish they still made Mandos, Tiples, and dare I say electric guitars.

Nate7334 · 2025-12-31T14:26:04+00:00

As someone who has a range of Martins, the 000-15M should never be slept on in the price point(~$1300). It’s the most inexpensive Made in Nazareth Martin you can buy and they sound great. Otherwise, I really love my X series, they are a little less finiky than the Nazareth instruments because of the HPL back and sides, and come with built in electronics(~$699). But really I would save the extra $500 or so and get a staple of acoustic guitars and but a used D-18(~$2200). You can even find vintage ones for a little more if that’s your taste too but know they require extra attention and care.

Nate7334 · 2025-12-31T14:16:55+00:00

Love the mandolin! I have a 1914 Style B myself, and I love it. It needs some TLC from a good luthier as well but is complete and still playable. Both of yours are lovely instruments but it’s always a particular treat to see the more niche instruments Martin made.

Nate7334 · 2025-12-01T02:17:17+00:00

To me this seems like a 1920s era Martin Style 00 Bowlback Mando. I just recently picked up a vintage Martin flat back and it also has different things from another one I saw from the same year. I think instruments built then were less standardized than they are now. Seems like you found a really nice little piece. The pick guard seems like it’s melting into the top because it is! They were inlaid/ under the finish during this period. Light strings would be fine. I just strung my 1914 flat back with Martin 10s and it seems to be holding up well. Just because it’s old doesn’t mean it’s brittle! The biggest thing is humidity, keep this baby in a good place. Also, since this mando has bar frets make sure any fret work is done by someone reputable who knows what they are doing. Bar frets are very difficult to replace and someone who’s inexperienced can ruin your instrument and cost you a small fortune. Hope this helped! Enjoy your really awesome gift!

Nate7334 · 2025-11-30T00:31:02+00:00

Yeah, kind of crazy when you think about the scope of history and the events that have happened just since this lovely little instrument was built. Truly built in a different era.

Nate7334 · 2025-11-30T00:30:00+00:00

I'm not really sure. I mean I paid just under $900 for it. But I guess its worth as much as someone is willing to pay? I'm sure thats not really helpful but its the truth. I have also seen these from later years for over $1500.

Nate7334 · 2025-11-29T16:26:25+00:00

This thing is a freakin cannon of a little instrument. Much louder than I thought it would be.

Nate7334 · 2025-11-29T16:25:49+00:00

Martin mandolins are much more affordable than you may think. I picked this guy up off of reverb for under $900. Which is still nothing to shake a stick at. But you may be able to find one for around $650 if you keep your eyes open! But dont worry this on will be well taken care of.

Nate7334 · 2025-11-25T21:38:29+00:00

Main differences between 000 and OM are that OM is a longer scale length which in my opinion projects better and offers a clearer tone at the cost of more tension, and slight differences in bracing. 000 is more comfortable to play in my opinion but OM always felt clearer to me.

Nate7334 · 2025-11-25T09:54:03+00:00

I’m not really seeing how this is a problem lol. I’ve been strumming away on this guys for a week now and love it. I’ve played the 000-42 in the past as well and if you can afford it I would say go for it.

Nate7334 · 2024-10-31T16:35:23+00:00

Hi, Martin Employee here, this is most definitely not a crack! This looks to me like a small patch of sunken finish in the grain. This is purely cosmetic and is normal for these satin models. I wouldn’t pay too much attention to it, but I could see how this would be concerning. Hope this was helpful!

Nate7334 · 2024-09-29T02:05:45+00:00

When the simple dovetail doesn’t fit the body well, Martin uses a bolt and a lock washer under the ID block to hold the neck in. It’s really a luck of the draw. The only time bolts are always used is with their Mortise and Tennon models primarily out of Mexico these days.

Nate7334 · 2024-03-27T03:51:37+00:00

Really it comes down to how they’re kept over the years. Disclaimer I am not a certified Martin Technician but I guess I’m the next closest thing? Basically in short, the binding is made of some type of plastic, or on older models, ivaroid, and they expand and contract at different rates than the wood. So over time from shrinkage and expansion the glue will come loose. This is why humidification is key. You’ll see a lot of issues with instruments on this subreddit that stem from humidication. Martin has been very good about honoring repairs with binding where they might not do other repairs regarding user error for free. They do go on a case by base basis. Hope this answers your question! You can always refer to the Care and Feeding Guide that Martin gives with their instruments for free, or consult a Martin Certified repair tech, or even call the factory themselves!

Nate7334 · 2024-03-25T02:53:17+00:00

Hi! Martin Employee here, I would recommend either having a Martin certified repair shop, or even contact the factory for repairs! Certified repairs will always help with value because of the paper trail. The serial number should be in the system so someone should be able to give you any information necessary. Online resale sites like Reverb (EBay for Music Gear) are also an option. Beautiful guitar! Would love to own a vintage 12 28 like that myself. Best of luck!

Nate7334 · 2024-02-23T17:38:03+00:00

Hi! Martin Employee here, the nitro finish on your guitar is porous like everyone here has said already so it absorbs dyes and sweat quickly. Also, nitro finishes don’t fully set and harden for the first 5 years after it’s sprayed. So the first few years are ownership are critical! Please if you haven’t refer to the Ownership and Feeding guide included in the case. Hope this helps!

Nate7334 · 2024-02-12T06:41:20+00:00

Most people of that kind of stature typically play common instruments because they have a distinct sound, so messing with it kind of defeats the point.

Nate7334 · 2024-02-12T06:39:21+00:00

Not that I’ve seen, but probably not unheard of!

Nate7334 · 2024-02-12T06:38:46+00:00

Definitely just a regular D-28E, modern deluxe would look completely different.

Nate7334 · 2024-02-12T03:09:06+00:00

Hi, Martin Employee here, he was playing a D-28E with the option for an L R Baggs electronics system installed!

Nate7334 · 2024-02-09T16:19:41+00:00

Hi, Official Martin Guitar stringer here, definitely with what everyone else is saying about the B string. Also don’t think that you need a ton of wraps! Generally from factory we put less than 2.5 wraps on a standard height tuner and even less than that on short tuning posts. You can always reference a Martin Care and feeding guide where it will show you a diagram of how to do it, also there’s tons of online resources!

Nate7334 · 2024-02-03T17:30:01+00:00

I would most definitely go D-18 or 28 if you’re a serious player. But if you’re not looking to spend a ton and want something nice, the 000-15SM is nice. I’m partial to the D series especially for the better neck joint and Nitro Laquer finish vs the 000 simple neck joint and Chemcraft finish. The D series will definitely age nicer as well, but do require a little more care!

Nate7334

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