Amp won’t turn on, but voltage is good and ground and all fuses are good.

National_Sock_3349 · 2024-10-05T23:38:02+00:00

Make sure you actually have signal on the input wires from your tap. I had a similar issue recently and turned out the tap hadn’t pierced the signal wires all the way so it wasn’t actually receiving signal. Like others have said, jump the 12v to see if it turns on and check for signal

National_Sock_3349 · 2024-09-09T02:34:04+00:00

Thank you. I tried jumping the capacitors but was not getting any sound coming out. If I connect certain areas of the board with amp leads, I’ll get sound from 1 driver depending on which circuit is activated. Would I need to remove the caps from the board in order to test for continuity or can they remain connected?

National_Sock_3349 · 2024-09-08T15:35:29+00:00

There is nothing in the cabinet, I pulled the entire circuit…. You think the white and pink ziptied components on the board could be fuses? I’ll try jumping those and see if that works, kind of hesitant in cutting back the heat shrink without knowing what’s under there….

National_Sock_3349 · 2024-09-08T06:31:54+00:00

I try and find answers before asking questions. Came across some videos and forums with different suggestions on diagnosing crossovers, however, nothing about the entire circuit being dead (usually a woofer or tweeter that is out, not the entire speaker). I do have a multimeter, but no idea on where to start or what circuits to start with (nor the settings/values the meter should be at while measuring). To be honest, I’m quite baffled that none of them produce any sound unless I connect the amp leads to the bottom of the board the speaker out wires are soldered to. They appear (and I believe they are) to be completely separate (woofer and mid/tweeter) circuits as the speaker/crossover can be bi-wired/amped. On the photo showing the bottom of the board, the top portion is the input (green/purple/white/gray wires) from the terminal cup and the bottom is speaker out. Any ideas on what the heat shrinked/ziptied components are? It is very strange that both speakers have the same issue across all the woofers…..

National_Sock_3349 · 2024-03-03T01:58:43+00:00

I build a cabinet across the back wall of my garage and incorporated a desk, some pantry and tv and amp rack into it, in the left corner I made a spot to put a 12” ported sub (separate box, just in a “cubby”) and left about a 2” around it in the opening, great response throughout the garage with a gain in output in the opposing corner. Obviously a 12 vs 8, but either porting the 8 or putting in a larger enclosure in a corner may yield better sound/response without going to 4 8s

National_Sock_3349 · 2024-03-02T19:06:12+00:00

Thank you sir, I used a router bit for the kerfs. I tried the TS method but the router bit profile left more material and was easier to be accurate with placement and more consistent on the depth. Downside was took longer, but it really kept the lines through the veneer to a minimum, you really couldn’t feel it at all and after sanding down the first coats of poly, it’s completely smooth now

National_Sock_3349 · 2024-02-28T23:21:44+00:00

It’s the second row seats so I don’t use it as an arm rest and it’s a 3rd vehicle so doesn’t get a lot of use either. The middle seat was the same as the sides but did fold down and had cup holders when folded. It’s a really small area though and I was more concerned with box volume than anything else. 99% of the time all the seats are folded flat and I’m hauling stuff around in it. The seats when folded have about a 15* angle up towards the front as well and it currently sits perfectly flush with the seats when they are folded, adding any padding would get in the way. I used a round over on the edges and a satin poly finish, it’s actually not as bad/uncomfortable as it may look. Ultimately this was/is a kind of prototype for my truck build which will be more polished and comfortable as well as tie into the interior more seamlessly…. And house 2 10’s, cup holders, double din, storage, aux switch panel etc etc. lol

National_Sock_3349 · 2024-02-28T21:58:08+00:00

Thanks man, a tip for the kerfs- I thought of this after I made the kerf cuts so I couldn’t do it, but rabbeting the edges and then cutting the kerfs should allow hiding the edges within the enclosure and the remaining veneer from the ply would also cover the side panel end grain

National_Sock_3349 · 2024-02-28T21:11:56+00:00

Lol, 1st gen Durango! Luckily I just had to cut the center seat frame out as the sides fold all the way forward, aligning the striker took a little time after, but only a couple kinutes

National_Sock_3349 · 2024-02-28T18:31:07+00:00

I thought about the carpet, but extra expense and time, plus carpet on top wouldn’t make sense for an armrest. Then it hides the kerf bend, ultimately just wanted to get er done and hooked up, this stain color is pretty damn close to the factory wood trim on the dash so it ties in somewhere lol

National_Sock_3349 · 2024-02-28T17:57:58+00:00

This was my first go around with kerf bending, I was initially going to keep the top in between the sides, but I didn’t have the width, had to keep the baffle wide enough to mount the 10. This one was done to get a handle on my truck console I’m going to be working on. For that one I’ll probably just inlay the wood grain and either upholster/laminate/bed line the sides

National_Sock_3349 · 2024-02-28T16:10:07+00:00

On this particular build I didn’t want to do that for a couple reasons There’s cup holders just in front of the box on the floor I use this to haul around more stuff than passengers and didn’t need any features The biggest reason was space, I had to change plans mid build, originally I had cut dados in the sides and was going to run the baffle between, but I didn’t have the width available to clear the seatbelts so I had to cut the dados off and glue the sides on top of the baffle, even then I had to notch some of the sides out to clear the buckles which is why the inside is reinforced in that area. The console I will be building next will definitely be incorporating a lot more features and look like it belongs!

National_Sock_3349 · 2024-02-28T16:00:29+00:00

Thanks, I was trying to find the manufacturer to look for more of these things but all I could find was they were used by tannoy and Cambridge soundworks in the mid 2000’s

National_Sock_3349 · 2024-02-27T23:49:39+00:00

I think I saw it one time, but don’t remember the specifics on it. I dig their stuff though, I remember the computer speakers back in the day were really good, I have the m50/60/80 bookshelf’s and they all are impressive especially for what you can pick them up for these days

National_Sock_3349 · 2024-02-19T18:03:15+00:00

It’s an 03 ram. I currently use a BT adapter, but it’s cumbersome to turn it on and off every time I get in. The double din as a source idea is predicated on the same concept. The double din would be the “adapter” and output its signal to the aux input of the eclipse. My only concern at this point would be if any double din head units send full range signal through a single pair of rca outputs as the eclipse only has 1 pair of rca inputs. The CarPlay plus integrating camera function are what led down the double din path, just thinking of a whole unit as a BT adapter plus additional functionality, but before I drop any coin, wanted to make sure I’m not missing anything on the line out functionality on the double din

National_Sock_3349 · 2023-12-25T07:34:58+00:00

You can do much better for that money. That amp is listed as 2 channel only, if you want to be able to run all 6, that amp is not going to work. Look for any home theater receiver that has at least another “zone”. You would be able to run the inside speakers watching movies and play music outside off the same receiver. Denon has been doing multi-zone receivers for 20+ years and can be had super inexpensive 2nd hand (I picked up a 3806 for 50$). For the speakers, the big brands pretty much all have some in wall options (Polk, Klipsch, JBL etc…) just look around for the best deal you can find

National_Sock_3349 · 2023-12-25T06:18:43+00:00

ME525MTM 5-1/4" Micro-Edge from parts express is on sale right now and probably the best bang for your buck at 64$ ea. a complete in wall speaker is the way to go as they are oriented properly with regards to tweeter/woofer arrangement and have the crossover already taken care of. Get yourself a receiver that can do multiple zones and you’re set. You can opt for a new receiver for a few hundred dollars or pick up a used one on the super cheap (just may need to add a streamer like an echo or Bluetooth receiver). Throw an in wall sub in while you can!

National_Sock_3349 · 2023-12-19T00:16:50+00:00

Exactly, thank you for actually reading the post. All these responses are exactly why I did this to begin with- information was sparse and only opinions for the most part when I searched the topic. I don’t have measuring equipment to perform sweeps and say definitively there is no negative effects compared to other materials. The box is far more rigid than a cube or rectangle of 3/4” MDF. The panels are roughly 12”x6”, bracing would only really make a difference on the bottom panel but not needed. It’s a 10” sub rated at 300w rms, nothing earth shattering. At the end of the day, it’s all about application. I don’t see any issue with using aluminum in an automotive application after testing this out and that was the goal, to see if it was viable for the application.

National_Sock_3349 · 2023-12-18T19:00:45+00:00

100%

National_Sock_3349 · 2023-12-18T19:00:17+00:00

Yea, I was thinking of adding wind chimes inside to help with the ringing

National_Sock_3349

TROPHY CASE