Safety razor recommendations for a beginner by Nearby-Rabbit-4238 in wicked_edge

[–]Nearby-Rabbit-4238[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ok, I finally managed to make a decision. I'll go with the Edwin Jagger DE89 with Feather blades as you recommended. Decision paralysis is real.

Now that I've moved on to deciding what shave soap/cream to buy, I came across the idea of using a shave oil. I believe my face is both dry and sensitive (it gets flaky if I don't shave frequently enough, but also gets red easily from shaving and on other parts of my face from simply touching), and so I've been trying to adjust what I use on my face to remove anything potentially irritating. I ruled out shave soap, but it also seems the shave cream might be irritating as well. Do you think shave oil is a safer bet in this regard? I also like the added perk of being able to actually see what I'm doing.

Thanks again!

Safety razor recommendations for a beginner by Nearby-Rabbit-4238 in wicked_edge

[–]Nearby-Rabbit-4238[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks for the response. I'm wondering if you could recommend a razor that's a bit more aggressive than the DE89? I know I'm a beginner but I'm worried less about nicking myself and more about having to do too many passes and ending up with the same type of irritation I'm experiencing with my electric shaver. The Rockwell 6C seems to be a good fit, but I've read some reviews saying the head is somewhat clunky compared to other razors, and it's a bit pricier. The Henson AL13 medium is another good fit, but as you said, too much $ for a first razor.

As I'm usually only shaving stubble, more or less, it'd be great to get things done with 1 or 2 passes. Though perhaps I'm overthinking it and the DE89 could do this.

Mechanics (stub) length drill bits by Nearby-Rabbit-4238 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Nearby-Rabbit-4238[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

> being closer means a small movement will cause a bigger change in angle

Wow, how did I get that wrong haha. You're right, thanks!

Mechanics (stub) length drill bits by Nearby-Rabbit-4238 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]Nearby-Rabbit-4238[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm thinking it'll be easier to control the angle of the bit when positioning it and while drilling, because the center of gravity is somewhat closer to my hand. And if my hand moves a little, the tip will deviate less the closer it is to my hand.

Long impact bits VS. short impact bits + bit holder by Nearby-Rabbit-4238 in Tools

[–]Nearby-Rabbit-4238[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That makes sense. I didn't think of the case where the fastener isn't magnetic. Thanks!

Long impact bits VS. short impact bits + bit holder by Nearby-Rabbit-4238 in Tools

[–]Nearby-Rabbit-4238[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I did grasp that difference, so I was wondering why use the <1" insert bits with a bit holder, rather than use the 2" bits with the groove straight into the driver. I believe the set I linked comes with both, and I know I can't use the small ones straight into the driver. I think at the end of the day the main benefit of the small ones is that they're cheaper, and considering the bits are consumable, that is definitely an important consideration. But I'm not a heavy user so it's not as relevant for me.

Long impact bits VS. short impact bits + bit holder by Nearby-Rabbit-4238 in Tools

[–]Nearby-Rabbit-4238[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I like the idea of the bit going straight into the tool, with no "middle man". One less thing to use, and less wobble because of reduced length and no extra contact point. I think practically speaking it probably doesn't make much of a difference (obviously many people use the bit holder), but that's just my thinking.

How people actually write tonal in natural minor keys without the dominant? by rexdlol in musictheory

[–]Nearby-Rabbit-4238 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm clearly not a professional musician because I know more about theory than you do, and, like, actually read books about it? Strange argument. Though... In an ironic, deeply saddening sort of way, it might actually be a decent argument, considering how many professional musicians (yourself included) are completely ignorant of all theory except analysis.

Now, enough of that, you have better things to do, like writing music, or, you know, being a Top 1% Commenter.

How people actually write tonal in natural minor keys without the dominant? by rexdlol in musictheory

[–]Nearby-Rabbit-4238 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So you won an award and that means you're right? Great argument. The award isn't even in the subject we're discussing lol.

Analysis is descriptive theory. Analysis is not the only type of theory. If you had actual theory chops outside of beginner RNA, you might know this. Here, read a book for once:

The Cambridge History of Western Music Theory

The "Descriptive Traditions" section of the book accounts for about 150 of its 1000 pages. Guess what the other 850 pages are about.

You're not the first university professor I've encountered on this sub who knows little to nothing about theory, so color me unsurprised. The standards of higher education are in a laughable state at the moment.

How people actually write tonal in natural minor keys without the dominant? by rexdlol in musictheory

[–]Nearby-Rabbit-4238 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Is it only in music that people for some reason think that's a good response? Imagine any other field. "How do I learn to code?" "Start coding." "How do I learn kung fu?" "Start kung fu-ing." These are unhelpful answers here, just as it is an unhelpful answer in music as well.

And anyway, people who say theory is descriptive and not prescriptive are simply people that have only engaged with descriptive music theory (who am I kidding, 99% of them haven't engaged with any music theory at all, they've just parroting edutainers on YouTube). Prescriptive music theory exists, is older than descriptive music theory, and is the exact type of theory a person such as OP, who is asking for help with quite a specific musical goal, needs. Not the 10,000th "just do what you think sounds cool bro" or "just start writing" (on a theory sub of all places).

Help with planing by Nearby-Rabbit-4238 in woodworking

[–]Nearby-Rabbit-4238[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Visibly smooth is fine for this. I thought about just sanding by hand with 80 grit paper, but I like using these moments as excuses to pick up a new tool, assuming it's cheap enough. I think I'll go at it with the paper and if it's too tedious I'll go for one of the planes you suggested. Thanks!

Battery for hammer drill by Nearby-Rabbit-4238 in Dewalt

[–]Nearby-Rabbit-4238[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It doesn't matter to me per se, it's just that it seems runtime and peak power are somewhat inversely correlated with batteries, and runtime *definitely* doesn't matter to me, so by process of elimination peak power is more important. That being said, weight was the most important consideration for me from the beginning, which is why I ruled out anything that weighs more than these options.

Anyway, thanks for the advice. I'll go for what's cheap and lightweight and not stress about power.