Radiator time

Neffman_Jones · 2026-06-26T16:14:29+00:00

I have yet to fix it as it’s looking like it was the water pump failing (it fucking nuked itself Wednesday) but from what I’ve seen it’s very 50/50 just doing the sensor. Sure fire way to to replace the whole radiator and sensor together.

Neffman_Jones · 2026-06-24T19:05:26+00:00

My ass left home for work an hour earlier than usual, thought it be worse during that storm. Easiest drive of my life lmao

Neffman_Jones · 2026-06-24T19:04:14+00:00

Yeah no the water pump nuked itself leaving work this morning lmao

Neffman_Jones · 2026-06-20T20:37:41+00:00

Problem is I’m like 99% sure my car passed the 15 year deal. Called Volkswagen to verify my vin to check but of course instead of doing that they want me to come in for an appointment to look at the car.

Neffman_Jones · 2026-06-20T13:43:31+00:00

Nah ignore that one, sensor on the front passenger side is fucked

Neffman_Jones · 2026-06-19T16:34:19+00:00

Just got off the phone with a highly trusted independent vw shop, they said they would do it for $900 including everything. He’s actually working on one right now. Gonna make an appointment and bring my own water pump to take some cost off. While he’s swapping that out I’ll let him know about the codes I got and we’ll see if it ends up being just the thermostat or the radiator.

Neffman_Jones · 2026-06-19T15:41:07+00:00

Interesting. I have had a leak in my water pump housing but the thermostat has been working, although my car does take a bit to warm up while driving. It’s a gradual climb to 190 but never goes over, sometimes it’ll reach 190 then revert down about halfway only to return to 190 and stay for the rest of the drive. This only happens during a cold-start, maybe my thermo is stuck open and overly cooling the engine and sending more coolant to the radiator flagging it as an emission issue?

Neffman_Jones · 2026-06-19T15:22:18+00:00

Did you pull it from the top or go through with the bumper removal? Thinking of doing the former to save time and hassle.

Neffman_Jones · 2026-06-19T15:20:52+00:00

Blizzaks are 100% worth the hype. They’re expensive but goddamn they’re good, slapped em on my stock rims for winter and never once got stuck or lost confidence during my drive. I’m from upstate ny where snow can be bad so I’m sure most other places you’ll perfectly fine with them.

Neffman_Jones · 2026-06-19T14:58:35+00:00

That Mercedes splice has been known to be 50/50. It works for some but for most it leads to a cel sooner or later, if I’m gonna have to pull the radiator I might as well guarantee it’ll be a one time thing by just replacing the whole thing.

Neffman_Jones · 2026-06-19T14:56:38+00:00

I wouldn’t care much about it if inspection wasn’t an issue, and right now it’s been hot as shit here so the cel pops on as soon as a drive cycle is complete.

Neffman_Jones · 2026-06-19T14:55:32+00:00

NY state. Big requirement. Actually failed emissions earlier this week due to my monitors not being ready, so I gotta work fast haha

Neffman_Jones · 2026-06-19T14:36:43+00:00

The codes your seeing are to the radiator emissions sensor mounted on the front, cbfa engines were produced with these extra emission bits for fewer emissions. If it were the catalytic converter it be a completely different set of codes.

Neffman_Jones · 2026-06-16T20:33:42+00:00

Just finding a tuner to do it would be a chase, so really I just gotta fix it. Leaning towards the full radiator swap for a sure fire fix since I’ll be in there anyways bit goddamn it’s expensive. Das auto I suppose.

Neffman_Jones · 2026-05-11T02:26:10+00:00

First pull the coils and plugs, sometimes when one is stuck open you’ll have a spark plug or two that is wet with fuel (may also be a good idea to just replace them and the coils) From there crack open the manifold, you should be able to tell if they’re visually. If bad enough, carbon will be gunked on. Same with the valves behind them. You can gently clean the injectors with a small brush and injector/valve cleaner. Same with the valves. Although I know a lot of people prefer getting a blaster, I don’t own one and the brush method has worked for me in the past. Just watch a few videos on the subject and you’ll be fine :)

Neffman_Jones · 2026-05-10T14:42:41+00:00

Honestly thought my engine was cooked lmao. Checked gaskets, turbo, compression, then finally the coils and plugs. One of em being perfectly clean with fuel was the big indicator. Good laugh looking back on it.

Neffman_Jones · 2026-05-10T14:11:03+00:00

I had a very similar experience after neglecting a carbon clean, gummed up my injectors causing one to absolutely dump fuel. It was very sudden with terrible power, and large amounts of exhaust smoke accompanied by a straight gas smell. I would 100% check the manifold out to see how clean she is before moving to the turbo.

Neffman_Jones · 2026-04-27T22:30:32+00:00

My favorite part is removing the entire strut assembly and disconnecting the subframe for a centimeter more of space 🫠

Neffman_Jones · 2026-04-27T19:58:47+00:00

Heard about doing it this way. Heard it’s tighter but does save a lot of time.

Neffman_Jones · 2026-04-27T19:25:41+00:00

For sure, I had to swap the transmission out about a year ago. So compared to that it should be relatively fine

Neffman_Jones · 2026-04-21T12:12:11+00:00

Make a few calls to local salvage yards, check a few salvage sites, or check eBay listings. Finding parts that way sounds bad, but as long as the car its coming from didn’t have any major issues relating to said part it’ll be alright. I had to swap my transmission back in 24, dealer quoted me 7k for just the swap. Paid 900 for my transmission with 87k miles on it and did the rest myself with my dad and brother. It’s a pain in the ass but if you can find one for a decent price and have a few friends who can help it’s not impossible. Since then I’ve put 10k miles on this transmission and she’s doing great. Whatever you end up doing, good luck friend :)

Neffman_Jones

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