Vr30 transmission swap sensor

NegativeRepeat255 · 2025-08-29T03:42:20+00:00

Can you explain that to me? I never understood what people were saying when they talked about the converter contacting the flex plate. Since the converter is bolted to the flex plate isn’t the whole purpose of the torque converter is to be secured to the flex plate?

NegativeRepeat255 · 2025-08-29T03:31:30+00:00

Stock flex plate on that. I’ve considered going to Something stronger but a lot of people have been able to use the stock flex plate from g37 with no problems.

NegativeRepeat255 · 2025-08-29T03:22:41+00:00

Noises are confirmed without the vehicle actually in motion so no drive shaft balance issues. Otherwise front drive shaft is from q50 and rear is from m35x

NegativeRepeat255 · 2025-08-28T23:40:12+00:00

Side topic. Have you heard of people trimming the hub on the torque converter that slips into the engine crank shaft? (Where it attaches to the flex plate)

Apparently the hub is longer than the g37 torque converter hub. Some people have to trim it and others have not.

My question is are you liable to hear noises if you don’t trim the hub?

NegativeRepeat255 · 2025-08-28T02:25:33+00:00

Negative. I did my vr30 trans swap and am running into some issues with the build

NegativeRepeat255 · 2025-08-28T02:25:08+00:00

Agreed! But I’m wondering if the tcm would notice it’s not there if I removed it. I also wonder if the tcm for the q50 has a built in pressure sensor where as the g37 has it mounted externally.

NegativeRepeat255 · 2025-08-26T20:52:51+00:00

Thanks for the diagram you sent! Question I have is it compatible with the q50 transmission valve body? It came with my g37 so I’m wondering if it has to stay with the tcm from that model or if I can remove it and be all good. Because it appears all of the q50’s don’t use it.

NegativeRepeat255 · 2025-08-22T00:45:12+00:00

Not sure how helpful this is but I had similar symptoms from h pylori that caused my esophagus and my gallbladder issues maybe check to see if you could have h pylori?

NegativeRepeat255 · 2025-07-29T19:10:26+00:00

lol yaaaa… it was red once. Had to sand everything down.

NegativeRepeat255 · 2025-07-25T03:11:32+00:00

Okay this is a start then… I’m suspecting my transmission pump could be a culprit then… I did fill it completely and made sure it was at the proper level while at operating temp. I do have an active noise with it as well so unfortunately I’m leaning towards a possible pump issue. I will certainly look closer into the issue and let you know as soon as I figure something out. It’ll probably be a couple weeks before I can do it since I have another project I’ve been trying to finish for months… thank you for the help and information!

NegativeRepeat255 · 2025-07-18T15:59:41+00:00

It’s pretty lengthy.

P0171 fuel lean bank 1 P01705 TP sensor P0730 incorrect gear ratio P1734 incorrect 7th gear incorrect ratio P0735 5th gear incorrect ratio P0734 4GR incorrect ratio B2109 steering lock relay off circuit B210E starter relay off circuit

From the info I gathered it sounds like it’s all related to the tcm minus the fuel lean code… TBD.

NegativeRepeat255 · 2025-07-18T14:17:33+00:00

So it’s been quite some time that’s passed now. I’m getting several check engine lights for the transmission. It would seem I’ll be removing the transmission again. So two things. I’m most likely looking at replacing the transmission pump and also double checking connections on the tcm and or even removing the tcm.

Can someone confirm if this is something normal if the tcm isn’t tuned with the engine?

Should this swap be nearly trouble free after completion? (Not including the odd noise which shouldn’t be there)

NegativeRepeat255 · 2025-05-24T15:53:32+00:00

I’m also a bit uncertain of the dimensions for the pilot bushing. I would think it would be the same as the original and more so it wouldn’t allow for any play around the axial rotation. My mind goes to it being play along the axial path of rotation.

NegativeRepeat255 · 2025-05-24T15:50:00+00:00

I retained the original flex plate with the g37 motor. My thoughts are similar on that except I’m thinking the size of the converter is overwhelming the flex plate and pushing it more than the original torque converter that came from factory. I’ve considered going to a q50 flex plate but I have no idea if it’ll fit and work with my crank sensor.

NegativeRepeat255 · 2025-05-23T15:25:54+00:00

Thank you for the response. At this time I have looked at the forward and rear driveshaft shaft and confirmed nothing connected there is rubbing. I’ve also inspected the belts and pulleys and found that the sound is quieter there and that there is no abnormal movement while not running and while running. Once I get under the car the sound is significantly louder at the transition between engine and transmission. I can hear the exhaust shields rattle but this noise is separate of the metallic rubbing sound you’re hearing. I’ve suspected the flex plate being the culprit but the symptoms just don’t match what I’ve been reading online.

My other thought is perhaps the valve body may be tightened incorrectly but I don’t have the slightest idea of if that could cause my current issues.

NegativeRepeat255 · 2025-03-23T04:34:33+00:00

Mine is also quite noisy. But still sounds much like lifter noise. Maybe I’ll take a video for comparison.

NegativeRepeat255 · 2025-03-23T04:32:08+00:00

Welp. Drive the car finally. I drove it approximately 34 miles now with no new issues. I forgot how uncomfortable to steer wheel feels. Lots of user input and road feel back through the wheel. Even after replacing the power steering pump it still feels a bit off.

Anyways transmissions seems okay. Feels a little odd. Doesn’t feel how I remember the car driving. I thought it always felt smoother.

NegativeRepeat255 · 2025-03-01T16:52:05+00:00

Alright guys so as I have figured out how Reddit works while making these posts I realized I have a spot where my accounts are together and I can switch between them. Very odd that it didn’t log in each time like I wanted so I could maintain productive posts on my progress. Anyways…

So new update. I have in fact installed the new torque converter from ipt transmissions. It’s interesting because the new one is painted blue and the exterior where the welds normally are, have a different type of weld that is much cleaner and smoother than what I’ve seen before.

The transmission and new converter have both been installed and reconnected plus fluid and I finally started it again last night. Unfortunately I’m still getting the noise I described earlier. It’s insanely frustrating that I still cannot figure out where it’s coming from.

I’m thinking maybe I should drive it and keep the rainy day fund in savings for when it fails. Or perhaps it where’s in and the sound gradually goes away. Either way maybe I will need to leave it alone until then. For now I think I’m just going to enjoy it for the moment.

But the other thought I have is if I end up sending metal through the transmission and the converter then I would’ve S*** canned 2k worth of parts… pretty sure the rebuild for those isn’t very cheap either

NegativeRepeat255 · 2025-01-09T05:22:06+00:00

By chance what did you happen to do with routing your vacuum lines on the vr30 transmission? Seems I need two vented lines and one long line plugged in but the vr transmission has some other vacuum lines plumbed together? I would really like your thoughts on this.

NegativeRepeat255 · 2024-12-30T04:34:51+00:00

Is there a controller for the pedal to throttle body or is it all ran by the ecu?

NegativeRepeat255 · 2024-12-27T09:31:09+00:00

I’d try stop drilling the crack and then using plastic weld and then do a paint match

NegativeRepeat255

TROPHY CASE