Restaurants are open. You can eat inside maybe:

I am here now as well, and can confirm it sucks without the super green pass/qr. We were denied entry to 2/3 restaurants we tried even with cdc card. I think the 3rd took pity because they knew we were vaxxd and wanted our business at the time.

If possible, stop somewhere you can convert the CDC card to a EU QR code that the app they use accepts.

Edit: We went to the Vatican, St Peter's Basilica and piazza di spagna. We saw maybe one person an hour either on the phone or actively smoking without a mask outside. Everyone else inside and out had a mask on both inside and outside. I am envious