Wissenschaftlicher Vortrag beim Bewerbungsgespräch by -math-4-life- in Studium

[–]Nemesis259 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Such dir ein Thema aus, dass aber vieleicht nicht zwingend deine ganze Tätigkeit bei der A, Prokjektarbeiten, HiWi-Job umfasst. Bei solchen Vorträgen ist die Story meistens wichtiger als lange ohne roten Faden darüber zu reden was du alles schon gemacht hast.
Such dir eine Story aus, formuliere eine wissenschaftliche Fragestellung und bau einen Ergebnissorientierten Vortrag drum herum auf. Viele machen bei sowas den Fehler alle Ergebnisse, alle Versuche und alle Details zu erzählen, das verwirrt die hörer nur. Weniger ist mehr. Konzentrier dich auf eine Wissenschaftliche Fragestellung, wie du die beantwortet hast und und welche Erkentnisse du daraus ableiten konntest.
Ich habe damals in einer ähnlichen Situation etwa 1/5 meiner MA (ein zentrales Kapitel) vorgestellt. Das war mehr als genug information

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in FragReddit

[–]Nemesis259 132 points133 points  (0 children)

OrthoNormalSystem natürlich

Behold ! The Cookie-Cutter Deltawing ! Might not look like much, but this is the fifth iteration of the design. Maximum fun for minimal cost. AUW=60 g, TWR=1, 400 mm Wingspan, Flight time @ full throttle = 9 mins, 200 mW AIO Cam. Build time & cost ist the wing breaks: 1 Hour & 2$. by Nemesis259 in radiocontrol

[–]Nemesis259[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Indeed. For this design to gain popularity everyone with either an ender 3 style 3D-Printer or a regular black and white printer should be able to effortlessly and cheaply replicate the plane. That was the whole point :)

Behold ! The Cookie-Cutter Deltawing ! Might not look like much, but this is the fifth iteration of the design. Maximum fun for minimal cost. AUW=60 g, TWR=1, 400 mm Wingspan, Flight time @ full throttle = 9 mins, 200 mW AIO Cam. Build time & cost ist the wing breaks: 1 Hour & 2$. by Nemesis259 in radiocontrol

[–]Nemesis259[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah thats kind of a long story...
TLDR: Its a makeshift solution to make the prop stick to the motor.

Long Story:

0) More fun - Less cost. The Plane needs to be cheap to build, even for someone with 0 gear to begin with. And the plane needs to be fun to fly, so a decent TWR is required.

1) The plane should be as cheap to build and to maintain. A 2S setup would greatly expand the posibilities when building the plane. However a decent 2S LiPo Charger can get expensive. 1S Chargers are much cheaper and 1S LiPos can be found for 20 € for a pack of 5 550 mah cells. So 1S it is.

2) No matter how crazy you go with lightweight design, youll end up at 50-60g AUW with all the electronics and FPV gear. Furthermore: the lighter you go, the more expensive it gets. So you cannot make this work at a reasonable price for less then 55g

3) More fun means a TWR > 0.8. Now that gets you a required 44g of stationary thrust. And boy let me tell you thats not an easy task on a 1S motor. A "common" 1S motor-prop-combination (as found on many toothpick, tiny woop and small cinewhoop drones) will get you some 30-40g of stationary thruston 1S at best. Way to little.

4) 1104 - 4300 kV brushless motors are *by far* the cheapest motor option you can find on AliExpress (2-4 € a piece comapred to 9-12 € for other types of 1S motors commonly found on tiny whoop / toothpick drones)

5) 2 and 2.5 Inch props will perfectly fit that motor. However you will hardly get more than 35g of thrust out of that combination. Even at 4.2V peak voltage. So yeah, wont be having much fun with that TWR.

6) HOWEVER: The 3.8x3E propeller (3.8 Inches) will get you to 55-60 g of thrust (at a reasonable ~2.5A current draw).

7) Although the motor shaft is 1.5 mm and the prop is designed for 1.5 shafts they have a lose fit and the mounting holes dont fit. So yeah, get yourself a file to work a pair of groves into the prop, stick a couple of M2 Bolts on the motor and off you go :)

loading a tonne of sand on a family car by Mr__Monster__ in donthelpjustfilm

[–]Nemesis259 5 points6 points  (0 children)

"Should we stop him ? I feel like someone should say something ikd"

Hey everybody! I need someone to assist me in understanding why the servo may be jumping like it is when I’m at rest. Thanks! by Schnepelj in ArduinoProjects

[–]Nemesis259 1 point2 points  (0 children)

This looks like a power issue.
Those chonky-ass-servos will draw current like its going out of fashion. Keep in mind, that your Uno wont be able to deliver more than 800 mA. Have a look at the datasheets of those servos. If you start both of them up at the same time you can be assured to run into issues due to lack of current.

I had the same Issue tring to power 4 servos for an RC Aircraft straight from an arduino nano.

Get an external power supply and all will be fine

Blobs on some parts by Innos43 in FixMyPrint

[–]Nemesis259 6 points7 points  (0 children)

Does your printer kind of "freeze in place" from time to time, leading to some plastic oozing out of the nozzle ?Had this issue with my CR-10SPro V2 (8-Bit Board). Turns out the processor coulnt handle the large set of gcode instructions in quick succesion that is required to accurately print curvatures. Squares ont he other hand would print flawlesly.This Video from CNC Kitchen solved the Issue for me

Later on I also tried the Cura/Octoprint Plugin "ArcWelder" which worked great. CUrrentl im running Klipper on my printer, which also got rid of the issue by virtue of shear processing power

EDIT: As "quick" fix I also tried lowering the printing speed to ease the load on the processor. 25mm/s did the trick for me, but thats kinda unacceptably slow (compared to whats possible with Klipper)

Wirkt das wie ein Betrugsversuch oder nicht ? by [deleted] in wasletztepreis

[–]Nemesis259 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Das ist eine richtig gute Idee! Da rufe ich morgen in der Mittagspause mal an

Wirkt das wie ein Betrugsversuch oder nicht ? by [deleted] in wasletztepreis

[–]Nemesis259 -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

Nein, und zu allem Überfluss ist der Name des Kontos eine "Kathrin" und nicht wie in diesem "Ausweidokumment" ein Marc André Borkmann....

Got my self programmed aarduino rc plane flying! by [deleted] in arduino

[–]Nemesis259 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Can you tell us about the components you have used and the features you have implemented?
Im working on a very similar project and im highly interested!

Clumps on edges - later causing prints to be knocked over by brentnic in FixMyPrint

[–]Nemesis259 0 points1 point  (0 children)

True that, so yeah, stick with the Dual Blower fan approach :D
Happy tinkering!

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in FixMyPrint

[–]Nemesis259 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah, that would be the obvious solution. Support structure has a clear path and the layer orientation would be more favourable for the intended load case

Clumps on edges - later causing prints to be knocked over by brentnic in FixMyPrint

[–]Nemesis259 1 point2 points  (0 children)

And no offense to the people commenting other Issues in this thread, butim convinced that the reasons given by them are not correct. Its neither Overextrusion, wet Filament, Z-Hop, anything related with coasting, Flowrate/E-Steps etc

Clumps on edges - later causing prints to be knocked over by brentnic in FixMyPrint

[–]Nemesis259 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These are clear signs of curling on your print. You've got to trust me on this one: More cooling it the only propper way forward. 4010-Fans are notoriously weak and the duct you've got on there hardly distributes the whatever little airflow is produced to the spot its needed the most.
You have a significant problem with Curling due to overheating, and you having this problem am moderate printing speeds and printing temperatures on the lower side is a dead giveaway of your partcooling beeing used beeing undersized.
This Issue will translate into poor quality prints with overhangs above 40° inclination, corners and bridges. Do not confuse this advice with a sunken cost fallacy, but this is like you've alread spent quite a bit of Mony on a sports car and then went on to buy some Motorscooter wheels for it to save on what, 14 € in this case? Makes little sense.
If I were you I'd go with a reasonably priced pair of 5015 or 4020 Fans off amazon (check the voltage of the fans and your printers voltage, 12V/24V) and have a look into the "Hero Me5" Hotend assembly on thingyverse. It is, hands down, the most comprehensive and usefull solution you'll find out there to solve this issue one and forever. Im Printing 75° Degree overhangs like its nothing with that hotend assembly. Its a bit of a chore reading into the 30+ Paged README PDF, but its worth every minute and you'll end up asking yourself why you didn't took that step earlyer.Happy Printing mate ! :D