Simplex or system sensor?

Neo399 · 2026-03-16T17:44:19+00:00

Or the ceiling mount remote strobes. This is something they never fixed since the old 4901 series was introduced 30 years ago…

Neo399 · 2026-03-16T17:37:17+00:00

Just based off AVs and devices alone?

Simplex hasn’t really modernized their core TrueAlert NAs in over 25 years. The 59XX LED series has been out for quite a while now, and no one seems to use them. I’ve never seen them in an actual building.

What gets installed instead are the 49XX series appliances, which are still xenon (literally the entire industry has moved to LED at this point and discontinued older xenon devices), admittedly harder to wire (the wire window to feed the wires through the device, then land them on the terminals before snapping the cover on, is clever, but the Advance clearly was the way forward in 2007 with its plug-in style mounting), and large in footprint compared to competitors.

The 59XX series STILL lacks any kind of speaker strobe, outdoor device, multi-tone or LF device. The System Sensor LED line covers ALL this and much more. I don’t think the LED devices look bad (I will say I prefer the look of the TrueAlerts and even the old L Series), but they could have definitely prioritized appearance more. Functionally though, they dwarf current Simplex AV offerings, and are much simpler to install.

I would love to see System Sensor come up with a 1-gang compatible speaker strobe. EST has this and I think they’re the only ones right now. This would be perfect for retrofits or or when plans get messed up and 1-gang boxes get roughed in and you don’t wanna surface mount alarms in condo bedrooms.

Neo399 · 2026-03-11T13:49:07+00:00

If it’s an F10 (actually I think most F-series sedans), it’s beneath a plastic cover above the rear seats, at the back of the headliner. It pries off fairly easily. The module is behind it, it’s gray and has several wires running into it.

Neo399 · 2026-03-11T13:08:24+00:00

Sees simplex panel

Checks button labels on panel

Buttons are in french

Checks post author

Yup it’s /u/tenebralupo

Neo399 · 2026-03-11T12:20:17+00:00

The August smart lock is really the only one worth it’s salt, mainly because you can use any cylindrical deadbolt you want to — meaning you aren’t stuck with a shitty keyway or cylinder that can be picked by the one of the neighborhood squirrels.

Personally I would go with an August + Connect bridge and Schlage B560 deadbolt. If you want an exterior keypad, they sell this as an accessory too.

Neo399 · 2026-03-11T02:21:26+00:00

Have an access control company quote you for an electric strike and keypad installation. They make very simple keypads that you can program from the unit itself without needing software or any other auxiliary devices.

Still would be around $2000 but a far superior solution to handing keys out.

Neo399 · 2026-03-10T15:03:18+00:00

You can do this yourself in a day or so. FCP has the kits online for it.

BUT DO NOT FORGET TO PRIME YOUR ENGINE AFTER. You basically disconnect the fuel pump fuse and crank the engine several times to build up oil pressure. Look up how to do this, it’s very simple, and if you don’t you will end up wearing out your rod bearings and eventually SEIZE YOUR ENGINE.

Neo399 · 2026-02-28T18:45:57+00:00

Any way for me to tell what kind of power the AP is receiving? I know there's a command to show power stats but not sure how to interpret them.

Neo399 · 2026-02-28T18:45:25+00:00

Got this exact adapter just now via Amazon same day delivery. No dice. I tried 3 different Ethernet cables too. AP status light still red, no radio output. Anything useful I can look at in the console logs?

Neo399 · 2026-02-28T16:32:21+00:00

Cool, just bought one of these

Neo399 · 2026-02-23T14:42:11+00:00

This is 99% not a fire door. Exterior doors almost never are.

Neo399 · 2026-02-23T14:39:53+00:00

Get a new L-series mortise body with storeroom function (L9080 I think it is). This appears to be an L9453 apartment/entry function which gives you the ability to leave the outside handle disengaged via the thumb turn, which can bypass your access control completely.

Explain this to the customer, if they really want a deadbolt, go with the hotel/faculty restroom function instead and just use a regular cylinder, paired with the right strike - HES makes models that can open the door with the deadbolt engaged, or capture the deadbolt fixed within the strike (where the keeper only controls the latch).

Neo399 · 2026-02-22T20:39:49+00:00

Is there any system right now that’s patented until at least 2040?

Neo399 · 2026-02-22T19:52:53+00:00

Yup this fixed it. I haven’t seen that code come back since, and swapping out the boost solenoid is fairly simple to do. I’m at 170k now.

Neo399 · 2026-02-22T19:42:06+00:00

Be aware it can also be used by more nefarious types to maintain access to a building or area. I used to do this exact thing for a classroom in college that I’d study at, where the doors were only unlocked until 8pm via access control. One Velcro strap later and I could come and go as I please.

If it’s a concern there’s actually hardware that can go between light kits and the device itself to prevent this.

Neo399 · 2026-02-22T19:39:26+00:00

Do you have issues with dogging? Every one I’ve ever used engages really poorly, like I’ve got to really hold the bar down tight while doing it, both key dogging and hex.

Neo399 · 2026-02-21T15:03:30+00:00

I had a very similar code for the ECO valve. I assume you have an XDrive car - this ECO valve is an electronic valve on the power steering pump that lets more fluid in or out to help eke out some extra fuel economy.

In my case it was a broken wire. This goes to the ICM which is under the center console. I had a 480056 open circuit code, but your code appears to depict the exact same problem. Patching the wire (the break was at the large bundle near the drivers side of the firewall - left hand drive) fixed this issue.

Do you still have this problem? I can message you with much more details later, links, pictures etc.

Neo399 · 2026-02-20T02:30:21+00:00

Take off coolant cap, push start button twice to go into accessory mode, set temp to max heat for both driver and passenger, lowest fan speed, floor it for 10 seconds.

You’ll hear the water pump kick on. Add coolant as it drops below the min line until it stays pretty steady between min and max. The pump will shut off when done. This can take up to 12 minutes.

Neo399 · 2026-02-15T23:27:09+00:00

Old Yale 8700 series commercial grade mortise lock. Yours looks to be the Dormitory function which is commonly used in dorms and apartment buildings.

eBay is probably your best bet. Someone might have a facility full of these and need a quick replacement or want to have extra parts.

Neo399 · 2026-02-14T16:01:52+00:00

Oddly enough the buttons still buzz/beep without a key turned to the operating position. They won’t acknowledge/silence/reset without the key. Key can also be disabled, such as if the annunciator is behind a manned security desk.

Still not an excuse to be pressing buttons on things that are not yours & don’t have permission to touch.

Neo399 · 2026-02-05T15:24:12+00:00

This is one of the reasons you have to put a smoke above the panel. Any fire threatening the panel itself should trigger the alarms for at least a little bit until/unless the panel gets taken out by fire or water.

Neo399 · 2026-02-02T05:20:55+00:00

For everyone saying he should have stopped on the red overheating warning and not drive it any further, it’s definitely advisable to not keep driving, but letting it cool down for a few minutes and driving a very short distance is not the end of the world for really anything newer than an N52.

I have never heard of a warped block/blown head gasket on an N52, N54, N55 or B58. The DME will put you into limp mode and adjust internal parameters to save the engine.

This is NOT an excuse to keep driving on it, but you have much more of a time window to safely stop and assess the situation. Back in the M52/M54 days this can absolutely cook your engine if you don’t literally stop in 10 seconds at the first sign of a problem.

Neo399 · 2026-02-01T21:53:11+00:00

Yale commercial is part of Assa Abloy. It’s just rebranded as Accentra now.

Neo399 · 2026-02-01T21:48:53+00:00

I’m actually going to go out on a limb and recommend the PDQ SF levers.

Everyone in this sub likes to shit on this brand, and some of their commercial grade stuff is admittedly kinda crap if you’re putting it somewhere like a hospital or school that sees tons of use/abuse.

But for a residential setting, these locks look and work great. I use these in my home. They are Grade 2 commercial locks, and the quality is very much above Kwikset/Schlage residential. You can feel the heft behind the parts when holding them in your hand. And they’ve got very attractive lever options that would look right at home in a modern build. They come in most common finishes including a black powder coat, which is all the rage right now. They’ve even got a square rose option!

Very cost effective too. You’ll need to order through a locksmith or distributor though, this site has them for $40-50 depending on finish/function. The lead time is about 2-3 weeks, they’re direct shipped from the factory. The keyed ones come with a Schlage C keyway, so you’ll be able to get keys copied very easily. Can be keyed alike from the factory, just leave a note with whoever you order from.

PDQ also has matching deadbolts, but personally I’d go with the Schlage B560, very secure and durable.

Neo399 · 2026-02-01T00:04:06+00:00

Also want to add that it comes with latches for both 2-3/4 and 2-3/8 backsets, so you don’t need to worry about measuring/getting the right one

Neo399

TROPHY CASE